Raptor 700 Oil Change Procedure - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-07-2010, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Raptor 700 Oil Change Procedure

Yamaha Raptor 700R Oil Change Procedure

Remove the oil dipstick from the top left side of the oil tank.



Remove the crankcase oil filler cap from the right side of the engine on the clutch cover.



Remove all 3 oil drain bolts.
A. The First one is located on the bottom of the engine cases near the center. You may have to remove the engine skid plate depending on what type of plate you're running. This bolt will allow the oil from the crank case to drain. The size of the bolt is 22mm, but a 6 point 7/8" socket will work as well.



B. The Second one is located at the bottom of the oil tank. This bolt will allow the oil from the oil tank to drain and should require a 12mm wrench or socket. Again you may have a skid plate in the way, you can either drill a hole for access or remove the skid plate.




C. The Third one is located on the right hand side of the engine, the bottom of the 3 bolts holding the oil filter cover on.



After removing the drain bolts allow for the oil to drain completely. Rock it, roll it or just allow the ATV to drain on a level surface. When the oil has drained out return the crankcase and oil tank drain bolts to their respective locations (hold off on the oil filter drain bolt if you are replacing the filter, that step will come shortly). The service manual will recommend 17ft lbs on the crank case bolt, 13ft lbs for the oil tank bolt but I typically hand tighten them to my satisfaction. BE VERY CAREFUL with tightening these bolts, especially the crankcase drain bolt as it can strip out very easily.

If you are replacing the oil filter continue with this following step. If not put the oil filter drain bolt back in place and skip down the list. Torque spec is 7.2ft lbs for the oil filter drain bolt.

The oil filter is located on the right side of the ATV under a cover and secured by 3 bolts. You have already removed the lower bolt, the drain bolt, in a previous step. Now you need to remove the other two bolts and remove the cover. On the inside of the cover is an o-ring, inspect this for damage or warping. If it's bad it needs to be replaced.




Now you can remove the old filter. Note the orientation, the open end of the filter goes to the back, the closed end to the front. There are o-rings on each end, these are part of the filter and can be discarded along with it.


Mike

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post #2 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-07-2010, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Insert the new filter in the same orientation (open end pointed towards the engine)




Replace the oil filter cover, the two upper bolts (long ones) and the shorter, lower oil drain bolt.



All the oil is out, all three bolts are replaced and tight, and the oil filter is replaced (maybe). Now to add oil. But you may have some questions.

A. How Much Oil? First off let me say that every engine is not the same! You will have to treat your ATV like an individual. They are all close but depending on how owners care for their ATV's and just random variables can make these numbers change. You should purchase 3 US qts to be safe.

Here are the oil capacities listed by the OEM service manual.

Overhaul
Total amount
2.30 L (2.02 Imp qt, 2.43 US qt)
Quantity in oil tank
1.30 L (1.14 Imp qt, 1.37 US qt)
Quantity in crankcase
1.00 L (0.88 Imp qt, 1.06 US qt)

Periodic oil replacement
Total amount
1.75 L (1.54 Imp qt, 1.85 US qt)
Quantity in oil tank
1.30 L (1.14 Imp qt, 1.37 US qt)
Quantity in crankcase
0.45 L (0.40 Imp qt, 0.48 US qt)

With oil filter element replacement
Total amount
1.85 L (1.63 Imp qt, 1.96 US qt)
Quantity in oil tank
1.30 L (1.14 Imp qt, 1.37 US qt)
Quantity in crankcase
0.55 L (0.48 Imp qt, 0.58 US qt)

B. Which Oil Brand? You make the choice, YAMALUBE 4 is the easiest choice but there are almost as many options as there are atvs. I would suggest reading other threads to help you make your own decision.

C. Which Weight of OIL? Referring to the manual, 40degrees F to 120degrees F use 20W40, 10degrees F to 100degrees F use 10W30, Under 30degrees F use 5W30. Basically the hotter the weather the thicker the oil and the colder the weather the thinner the oil. You are free to choose other weights, but the manual's suggestions are a good guideline and in most situations I agree with it.

You add oil TWO locations, the crankcase and the oil tank. If you are replacing the filter then you may be able to simply add one quart to each location and get quite close to the proper level. Otherwise follow the above specifications for oil amounts and locations.

Replace the oil tank dipstick and the crankcase filler cap (torque spec for this is 8.7ft lbs). Start the engine and either let it idle or putt around a little bit until the engine has time to warm up. Now you need to pull it back in, shut it off and check the oil level. Remove the dipstick, wipe it off with a rag or paper towel. Then insert the dipstick back into the oil tank, DO NOT screw in the dipstick. Check your oil level; if you need more add it to the tank, if you have too much try using a turkey baster or syringe to siphon some out of the tank or simply crack open one of the oil drain bolts. After you have the proper level wipe down any oil spills and replace the engine skid plate.

Hopefully this helps to clarify the process and save you money by doing it yourself. Please post any questions or suggestions here, THANKS!

Mike

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Last edited by Mad Dog; 09-27-2010 at 05:30 PM.
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post #3 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-12-2010, 10:13 PM
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Very Nice!!!! Great write up!!!

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post #4 of 59 (permalink) Old 11-04-2010, 08:30 PM
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wait so are you supposed to check the oil level immediately after turning it off? cause I've always waited a few minutes for it, cause thats what Ive always been told to do.. have I been doing it wrong all this time?! Also I've never put any in the crankcase itself, Ive always just put it in the tank up front, Im pretty sure thats what my manual said to do... god I hope I havent been doing it wrong all this time. =/ I feel like a tard.

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post #5 of 59 (permalink) Old 11-04-2010, 10:11 PM
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You have to wait a couple of minutes after shutting off to get an accurate reading and yes you have to put some of the oil in the crankcase...

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post #6 of 59 (permalink) Old 11-06-2010, 04:10 PM
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thank you so much for posting the size of the drain bolt.
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post #7 of 59 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rappyfreak View Post
You have to wait a couple of minutes after shutting off to get an accurate reading and yes you have to put some of the oil in the crankcase...
yeah I went and looked thru my owners manual again on the oil change and the page that says that was stuck to the other page by some glue or something. never saw that page. I always thought it was kinda odd to just put it in the front but I figured they probably know how to change the oil on a machine they made so who am I to judge.... anyways i'll be changing my oil tomorrow properly =)

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post #8 of 59 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 11:29 AM
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tahnks to this thread i got through my first oil change thanks for all the saved money fellas
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post #9 of 59 (permalink) Old 11-08-2010, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rappyfreak View Post
You have to wait a couple of minutes after shutting off to get an accurate reading and yes you have to put some of the oil in the crankcase...
Like the other guy only put 2 qts in the tank. I let it run then checked the level and it was fine. It all cycles thru your just gonna be missing lubrication on inition startup right?
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post #10 of 59 (permalink) Old 11-12-2010, 07:58 AM
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I have a CFM oversized aluminum oil tank. Anyone know how much extra oil they hold?
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