How to install and remove the rear bearings and axle on a Raptor 700 - Yamaha Raptor Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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How to install and remove the rear bearings and axle on a Raptor 700

I figured I would make a how to do the rear bearings and axle. I only took the pics after the everything was removed. To remove it just work backwards. I was installing a new lonestar axle and hubs so it's a little different than the oem one.
Tools socket set, hammer, bearing puller, big circlip plyers, allen wrenches, swear jar , channel locks, wrench set, and I'm sure there's a few more but I can't think of them right now.

The way I got the bearings out was with a screw driver and hammer. After fighting it and smaking my thumb a few times for a little bit I finally added some heat to the carrier and got it out far enough where the bearing puller would work. I heated it up a little more and after bending the puller a little bit they poped out.
After everything is removed clean up the carrier and get it ready for the bearings. I froze the bearing, heated up the carrier, and greased the area where the bearing when in to make it a little easier.


Flip it over and put the axle spacer/ sleeve in. I greased inside and out using a plumbing flux brush. It make it easier and alot cleaner than using your fingers.

I heated this side as well and greased the bearing socket area.

Then push the seals in

Flip it over the other side

2006 YZ450 50th Anniversary. Woods machine and street legal.
2007 Raptor 700r April 2013 Raptor of the month Traded
2001 Wolverine 350

Last edited by 700scott; 10-12-2011 at 10:16 AM.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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There are 4 o rings that come with the new kit but I was only able to find 3 spots for them so I left the 4th one out. I had 2 big ones on the inside area and one around the brake holder. I greased the carrier and housing to make it easier sliding the carrier in.

Put the rear caliper braket on and pop the circlip on. I found this very difficult with standard circlip plyer. I had to fight with the circlip, circlip plyers a small screw driver to get it back on.


Then comes the axle. I already pushed the sproket hub on, insterted the sproket circlip and bolted the sproket on. Make sure you put the axle through the chain if you didn't remove it. I found this out the hard way when I had to take it back out to get the chain on.

Then side the brake hub on but add some grease to the splines. Dont forget the disk brake.

The Lonestar lock nut says to go 1/4 turn but for the oem nut they spec out 175 foot lbs on the torque. I added grease to the threads to the lock nut as well.

Then put the rear brake caliper, wheel hubs, and wheels back on and your set. Don't forget to recheck everything. The whole thing took me about 8 hours for my first time. It took me an hour or two before I realized that the seal was all one peice and you just pry it off with a screw driver.
I checked the bearing before I put them in and there wasn't much grease in them so I packed more grease in them. I used a small screw driver to get the seal out.
Just a little bit of grease.

No grease.

2006 YZ450 50th Anniversary. Woods machine and street legal.
2007 Raptor 700r April 2013 Raptor of the month Traded
2001 Wolverine 350

Last edited by 700scott; 10-12-2011 at 09:44 AM.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 10:02 AM
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Nice writeup! I'll be doing this myself soon...good thing I got a spare to practice on
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. The only hard thing about it was fighting the bearings and the circlip for the brake. It's a pretty easy job besides that.

2006 YZ450 50th Anniversary. Woods machine and street legal.
2007 Raptor 700r April 2013 Raptor of the month Traded
2001 Wolverine 350
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 11:09 AM
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The extra o-ring is with the PivotWorks kit.. haven't found a use for it either.

'08 Raptor 700R SE (Click for pictures)
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks I got the All Balls bearings. I was thinking I did it right and left some out lol. I looked at the manual and it showed 4 rings, so I don't know I guess someone can count or it's just an extra even though it was a little big.

2006 YZ450 50th Anniversary. Woods machine and street legal.
2007 Raptor 700r April 2013 Raptor of the month Traded
2001 Wolverine 350

Last edited by 700scott; 10-12-2011 at 11:30 AM.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-13-2011, 05:46 PM
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I`m in the middle of doing mine now and I when you said took you about 8 hours for the first time it made me feel alot better as this is what im on track for or even more hahaha....I for sure have got more then one swear jar so far maybe 2-3 jars and about to start on a 4th one.....thanks for this post it will help me BIG TIME !!!
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-13-2011, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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lol thats good, I'm glad it helped. Are you doing the bearings too?

2006 YZ450 50th Anniversary. Woods machine and street legal.
2007 Raptor 700r April 2013 Raptor of the month Traded
2001 Wolverine 350
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 11:59 AM
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I ordered oem bearings and seals this time to see if they last longer than the previous manufacturer. Two of the oem yamaha bearings only have a seal on one side of the bearing. which way does this bearing get installed? open side towards the other bearing?

Barker in frame duels, PC3, Dyna FS ignition, trinity intake, 14/38, 23 inch fronts, 22 inch rears, Trail Tech Vapor, billet thong holder
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 12:05 PM
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Oem bearings are damn expensive. Went through motosport first then double checked at rmatv and they were like $15 cheaper per bearing. Easy part is buying them...now the hard part.
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