|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|02-22-2018 06:51 AM|
|oldskool83||Snorkle on a 660 attaches to the lid, it's under the tank area. I only use the lid, been as deep as 2ft no issues, it's not needed.|
|01-23-2018 07:22 PM|
|DEZPERADO||My woods 700 has a snorkel on the air cleaner lid. I got a "Outerwears" filter cover from a Honda 90 that fits the snorkel and keeps out water and other debris. I also have 2 different covers, one intact for wet, one with about twelve 1inch breather/filters for dry.|
|01-23-2018 07:01 PM|
Originally Posted by ksouthw80 View Post
|01-23-2018 06:47 PM|
|ksouthw80||I've looked at the prodesign set up - very near future mod. Is the snorkel the ducting that goes above the carbs?|
|01-23-2018 06:41 PM|
|oldskool83||You can leave the lid off of your not I to much water. I have area's where I'm 2ft deep to cross so (6) 1" holes provides a semi splash cover. The snorkel must be thrown out if you at least want it to breath. Prodesign air filter set up or I wouldn't even start the bike up. It solves all air leaks. Also drill a 2nd hole on opposite side of air box invade you wash in there and it can drain...same goes for battery box on rear fenders. These mods won't turn anyone away if you sell, shows you were smarter then the average atv owner in the last 40 years.|
|01-23-2018 06:34 PM|
|ksouthw80||I'll prob figure a temp job on shifter but end up ordering the nerf bars and shifter that makes it right. BUT, I've got other things to fix in the mean time like this one - Sometime in the units life someone modified the exhaust and it burned a HOLE in the air box ( PO telling me this ) (new exhaust when I got it) . I bought a serviceable one and have it now. Right before I got the unit the PO had a stage 1 jet kit and carbs completely rebuilt at a Yamaha Service center. I have all the old stuff in a bag. Now - I've briefly read about leaving the lid off, drill holes in lid, etc. After looking at the picture please give me your advice as to what I should do. Right now, without newer airbox it runs flawless. Note - I have all original ducting with a K&N air filter. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Oh yeah, the second pic is something I bought on Ebay also. Goes with the scheme I"m headed toward. (will remove sticker ) Things that might matter too - 686, stage 1 hot cam, tusk clutch, power bomb header,|
|01-23-2018 08:21 AM|
The front row of teeth on the Roll Design pegs is lower than the rear 2.
This makes them feel more narrow, and gives your feet more room to move up and down for the shifter and brake pedal.
The nerf bar pegs teeth are all the same heigth, and feel wider because of it.
I prefer my IMS pegs also.
|01-23-2018 04:53 AM|
|oldskool83||I have a prodesign shifter and its long. Adding rolldesign pegs felt fine with mx boots|
|01-22-2018 09:14 PM|
|DEZPERADO||Yep, those are wide pegs. The added support is good, but they move your feet forward. Some bikes use longer shift levers. Maybe a Banshee or Blaster, I don't know for a 660. You'll have to match the shaft size. ANYONE KNOW?? Or, as you said, extend yours by welding.|
|01-22-2018 07:14 PM|
|ksouthw80||Hey thanks guys. Looking on forums and ebay and stuff, can you give me an example of a longer shift lever? I see this is a common problem. The foot pegs on my nerf bars are what I consider to be thick and wide (silver tec). Seem nice to me.|
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