My 01 660 keeps bogging out at the same rpm range of about 1/2 or so, every gear. I bypassed the reverse rev limiter and the pb sensor. I have tried all jetting after cleaning. Had 160 155 27.5 and 95 jets in it, was doing fine and one day just started the bogging issue, no change in temp or location. It has a K&N filter no lid, full exhaust, and stage 1 cam. Its got a good seal on all 4 carb tubes, I sprayed carb cleaner around will idling and had no reving. I've tried other mains 165 160, 170 165(currently), and played with the needles multiple times and my spark plug is at a good greyish color not white nor black. It's been down for 6 weeks now, I'm all out of ideas. Thanks
01 660 carb problem?
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01 carb problem?
My 01 660 keeps bogging out at the same rpm range of about 1/2 or so, every gear. I bypassed the reverse rev limiter and the pb sensor. I have tried all jetting after cleaning. Had 160 155 27.5 and 95 jets in it, was doing fine and one day just started the bogging issue, no change in temp or location. It has a K&N filter no lid, full exhaust, and stage 1 cam. Its got a good seal on all 4 carb tubes, I sprayed carb cleaner around will idling and had no reving. I've tried other mains 165 160, 170 165(currently), and played with the needles multiple times and my spark plug is at a good greyish color not white nor black. It's been down for 6 weeks now, and I've got about 20 hours of time wasted, I'm all out of ideas. Thanks for the help
My 01 660 keeps bogging out at the same rpm range of about 1/2 or so, every gear. I bypassed the reverse rev limiter and the pb sensor. I have tried all jetting after cleaning. Had 160 155 27.5 and 95 jets in it, was doing fine and one day just started the bogging issue, no change in temp or location. It has a K&N filter no lid, full exhaust, and stage 1 cam. Its got a good seal on all 4 carb tubes, I sprayed carb cleaner around will idling and had no reving. I've tried other mains 165 160, 170 165(currently), and played with the needles multiple times and my spark plug is at a good greyish color not white nor black. It's been down for 6 weeks now, and I've got about 20 hours of time wasted, I'm all out of ideas. Thanks for the help
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Grey means it is extremely lean, so lean you could have any kind of weird throttle response issues.............
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Well if it is weird, then maybe you have dirty jets and a thorough carb clean
ing is in order............I've cleaned the carbs good so I think, even went back to see if I missed anything. Is there maybe a part I'm not cleaning. I've cleaned all the removable jets, soaked for 10min then wire cleaned and sprayed compressed air through them and the carbs. It's about the tenth carb I've cleaned and it's the only one that didn't turn out good. Appreciate the info, really can't wait to go fast again, it's been so long now....
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You need aftermarket needles, GYTR, Vitos or DJ, (confirmed by your 1/2 throttle bog) with an open airbox.
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Have you changed the needles, you fail to mention this and as Quad says, you need aftermarket needles with an open or modded air box, plus you will need #25 pilots..............
I still have the factory needles, I've tried adjustment on all 5 notches with 4 different main jet sizes from 145-175. Yes I've had the carbs off 20 times now. All the different jets still have the same effect, bogging at around the same rpm, sometimes popping when the jets were to low. I'm still leaning toward the idea of the carbs being dirty in some place I have not cleaned yet being that it ran for years with 160 155 main jets, 27.5 pilots, 95 jet. I can't seem to find a detailed carb cleaning thread, I've seen one on here but it didn't even say to remove the emulsifier tubesand theres prolly more missing than that ???. Thanks for the help
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Clean the carbs, put in the recommended jets AND aftermarket needles... if necessary.
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If you do not use aftermarket needles, your main jetting must exceed over 200 to get rid of this midrange bog you have when you use an open air box, I know this for a fact since I played with open air boxes since the raptor came out in 2000, and no aftermarket parts were available, I bought my first raptor in august of 2000, and before it went on it second ride, it had no air box, and massive jetting compared to what you are suggesting, I used a cone shaped K&N air filter from a car to filter the air, and had built a larger head pipe and muffler...................
By open air box I mean K&N cone filter with the flat filter that goes on top of the box with the clothlike cover. Does it make since that it has always been fine then just out of the blue needs much bigger jets? I have noticed (slightly) the higher jets I go it gets a little bit faster, but still cuts out terribly. So I'll try 170 175 mains next time I tear into it, I got up to 195 jets I beleive. Thanks a lot
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Yes, that's a significant mod to the airbox, allowing much more flow and the associated lower vacuum, which necessitates 25 pilots, larger mains and more aggressive aftermarket needles. 160L/165R or 165L/170R mains, 25 pilots and DJ, GYTR or Vitos needles with clips 3 notches from the bottom is probably where I'd start.
The 95 jet is the choke enrichment jet, it can be left alone.
The 95 jet is the choke enrichment jet, it can be left alone.
I guess that's where I'll start next. Tried 190 195 jetting with 27.5 pilots and it bogged down just like normal. Still hard to understand why all the sudden I need new needles and pilot jets??? But I'll try anything at this point. Wheres the cheapest place to get aftermarket needles and #25 pilots at? Thanks agian
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THe mods to the airbox greatly increases flow thru the carb and reduces vacuum, which causes all circuits to run lean. The stock 22.5 pilots were marginally lean already.
With your mods, and truly clean carbs (all passages are flowing well, choke plunger is sealing well and free to move), I'd start with 160L/165R mains, 25 pilots, aftermarket needles with clips at 3 from bottom and fuel screws at 2.5 to 3 turns out.
If you were running just fine before, and suddenly something changed, you need to find out what changed. You have since cleaned your carbs, so there's another change.
The Vito's kit is $50, comes with a selection of mains, 25 pilots AND extended fuel screws so you can adjust with the carbs mounted. It's a good deal.
One more note: If the bog is throttle position related, it's carbs. If it's truly RPM related, it's something else.
With your mods, and truly clean carbs (all passages are flowing well, choke plunger is sealing well and free to move), I'd start with 160L/165R mains, 25 pilots, aftermarket needles with clips at 3 from bottom and fuel screws at 2.5 to 3 turns out.
If you were running just fine before, and suddenly something changed, you need to find out what changed. You have since cleaned your carbs, so there's another change.
The Vito's kit is $50, comes with a selection of mains, 25 pilots AND extended fuel screws so you can adjust with the carbs mounted. It's a good deal.
One more note: If the bog is throttle position related, it's carbs. If it's truly RPM related, it's something else.
Well it bogs in neutral also, at a little higher rpm. There's no big difference in 155 160 thru 190 195 jets, that's got me second guessing. My reverse rev limiter wire broke lose again n the light came on, I regrounded it, I noticed again how the bog is so similar to each other. Thanks a lot for the info.
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Have you checked the parking brake switch and just unplugged it? This circuit, if faulty, will turn on another RPM limiter. If the switch is making intermittent contact due to vibration, it can make the bike hit the limiter seemingly at any RPM... just unplug the white connector with two wires each end - black and black in one side, green/yellow and black out the other. It is buried up behind the left headlight, near the radiator. Unplugging eliminates this as a possibility and causes no ill side effects.
I bought it with the Pb removed and it has the block kit so there's no connection there at all. The male connector and wire is gone, where did it connect at? Maybe somethings touching there? I plan on cleaning the carbs again, maybe I missed a port in one of them. Then I'll give the vitos a try. Thanks for the info
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Green/yellow stripe wire that leads to the CDI. If it shorts to ground the PB RPM limiter will come on. Best bet is to just cut the wire near the CDI and cover the CDI's end so it can't be shorted out by water/dirt.
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