Raptor Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so i have a 01 660 with proflow and foam filter, stock exhaust with baffel removed and air lid on, i has some holes in the air box lid, but very small im not really sure why they are there( preveous owner) but there are maybe 5 1/4 in holes, like somthing was mounted there. has 155/150 jets with 25 pilots and vitos needles clip half was up. The fuel screws are striped.... i have no clue how to remove them now and i think they are my prob. but anyway i installed the vitos pilot jets and needles the bike was poping under decel and seemes slugish off idol and in top end. Well now the bike is alsome in the top and mid is not bad but somtimes it hesitats. and cold it will start perfect. once it is warm it spits and studders and then finally starts. Had a horriably day on the trail today, friend had a flat, anouther friend ran out of gas, and my bike had to be pull started at the end of the day. on the way home down in the low rpms it ran like a$$ poping and cracking i have no clue what happened, but it reminded me kinda of fowling a plug on a 2 stroke Im in the process now of checking valve clearance just to rule that out i think it may be getting 2 much fuel in the pilot circuit but with stock pilots its not enough and 25 is to much, i need to get the fuel screws out i have vitos to put in there, i just don't want to go drilling them out if i don't need to. any help guys??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
just finished my intake valve adust there were tight maybe even open, i couldn.t get a .002 feeler in there its now at .006, can't fit the .007 and .005 slides in nice. exhaust was at .006 should i adjust it? its at the lower limit, but does the exhaust tighten or loosen when worn? and to find tdc i turned the crank and waited till the intake valves closed then turned to the I on the crank. is this correct?
 

·
I am unique
Joined
·
22,621 Posts
just finished my intake valve adust there were tight maybe even open, i couldn.t get a .002 feeler in there its now at .006, can't fit the .007 and .005 slides in nice. exhaust was at .006 should i adjust it? its at the lower limit, but does the exhaust tighten or loosen when worn? and to find tdc i turned the crank and waited till the intake valves closed then turned to the I on the crank. is this correct?
When checking for TDC, make sure you find the I mark on the flywheel, and then rock the crank back and forth 1/4 turn, the valves and rockers should not move, If they do you are one turn out on the crank and must rotate one more turn to find the proper TDC...............
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,524 Posts
SOunds like you got TDC compression stroke okay - but your idle and low RPM issues are likely due to the fuel screws being stuck - probably have lots of gunk in those passages... You're going to have to get them out and clean the carb thoroughly to get where you want to be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Any advise on how to get them out I've tried and impact driver one of the ones you smack a hammer and it turns but it just eats the brass
 

·
I am unique
Joined
·
22,621 Posts
Any advise on how to get them out I've tried and impact driver one of the ones you smack a hammer and it turns but it just eats the brass
Use a small butane or propane torch and heat the area where the screw is............
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok how would I make sure all the gas is out first I really don't want to set fire to my carbs? Would rinseing them offwith water hurt them?
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,524 Posts
Remove the carbs from the quad, then remove the float bowls and blow everything and the body's passages out with air.

Heat the aluminum around the fuel screw bore with a torch, be gentle... the aluminum will expand, hopefully allowing the screw to free up... if not, you can try using a hole drilled part way into the screw with an easy-out or other stubborn screw extractor.

Spray penetrating oil like PB Blaster in there first - don't use WD40 - it's a very poor penetrating/release lubricant. Loctite makes a neat new penetrating oil that also freezes the screw - both shrinking it and penetraing in to release - sounds like a great product.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i got the pilot screws out but i screwed the threads up, im going to see if i can find a tap to retap them tomoro. but i noticed when i took the mains out and the slide where the needle goes, i can't rem what its called, but i noticed the needles sit at different points 1 is lower than the other. and one is spring loaded, the other seems stuck. i took the one thats stuck out and it seems the needle will not go in far enough it gets stock at the bottom some where. is this normal any ideas??
 

·
I am unique
Joined
·
22,621 Posts
i got the pilot screws out but i screwed the threads up, im going to see if i can find a tap to retap them tomoro. but i noticed when i took the mains out and the slide where the needle goes, i can't rem what its called, but i noticed the needles sit at different points 1 is lower than the other. and one is spring loaded, the other seems stuck. i took the one thats stuck out and it seems the needle will not go in far enough it gets stock at the bottom some where. is this normal any ideas??
If it is the needle and seats you are referring too, they should move freely and both should move equally, you may need to replace them.........:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
no it was the main needle the from the vito's kit the one with 5 clip postions i figured that out tho there is a small indent in the spacer you have to line up, i guess i just got lucky with the other one. now i have to find a 6mm .50 tap to fix my threads. i actually broke the screws and peiced them out. but in the process i guess i pushed them up to where they were sticking out of the top. did i mess the holes up or are they supose to go that far??
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,524 Posts
They will stick into the carb throat when fully closed - applying way too much force in that direction could expand the aluminum and open up the hole, I suppose, but an inspection should tell you whether this has happened - the hole should be flush with the diameter of the throat - if you see a raised ring around the hole, the aluminum has been damaged and the hole diameter increased.
 

·
I am unique
Joined
·
22,621 Posts
no it was the main needle the from the vito's kit the one with 5 clip postions i figured that out tho there is a small indent in the spacer you have to line up, i guess i just got lucky with the other one. now i have to find a 6mm .50 tap to fix my threads. i actually broke the screws and peiced them out. but in the process i guess i pushed them up to where they were sticking out of the top. did i mess the holes up or are they supose to go that far??
They can go right though into the carb throat, this can cause them to break off and jam in there so make sure the tip is still attached to the screw..............
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok both of the tips are out, and everything seems smooth so hopyfully it will be alright... thanks guys
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top