Check you gas cap vent and make sure it is not clogged up. Welcome to the forum....
02 Raptor not wanting to rev (Yes I've read all the sticky's :)
Started this endeavor with a raptor that sat for 2 years. The float stuck open and filled the engine with gasoline. Bone stock raptor, 0 mods.
Ran carbs through ultrasonic cleaner with them completely stripped, checked all passages with wire and it is immaculately clean. Carb has new everything in it except the floats. New jets, valve seat, valve, o-rings, air jets, everything.
Float set at 3mm using the clear tube method. Stock jetting and mixture screws 3 turns out on both carbs. Needles at stock mid position. Jets are the stock 145/140's. Pilot jets are the stock 25's (if i remember correctly)
Parking brake sensor is 100% an open circuit, opened the circuit on both ends and checked continuity so it is not shorted together anywhere in the harness.
Didn't have any flashing of the reverse light, but disconnected the sensor and grounded it and that did not help.
Disconnected the voltage regulator and it still wouldn't allow it to rev, so the stator appears to be good...
The petcock does have some issues (leak by) and a new one is on order, but it flows good so we are not starving the carbs.
Checked spark and we are getting good spark.
Checked all these things several times. It idles good, but will not rev in neutral, or with the clutch pulled and in first. When I full choke it it idles up.
I am at a loss now, and thinking the CDI is bad but want to see if anyone else has any other ideas.
Don't know of anyone near me in eastern NE, that I can pull my CDI and check it in there raptor or vise versa.
Thanks for the help,
David
Edit: We flushed 10 quarts of oil through the engine to try to get any trace fuel out of the motor. Pulled all drain plugs etc... missed that in the main post.
Ran carbs through ultrasonic cleaner with them completely stripped, checked all passages with wire and it is immaculately clean. Carb has new everything in it except the floats. New jets, valve seat, valve, o-rings, air jets, everything.
Float set at 3mm using the clear tube method. Stock jetting and mixture screws 3 turns out on both carbs. Needles at stock mid position. Jets are the stock 145/140's. Pilot jets are the stock 25's (if i remember correctly)
Parking brake sensor is 100% an open circuit, opened the circuit on both ends and checked continuity so it is not shorted together anywhere in the harness.
Didn't have any flashing of the reverse light, but disconnected the sensor and grounded it and that did not help.
Disconnected the voltage regulator and it still wouldn't allow it to rev, so the stator appears to be good...
The petcock does have some issues (leak by) and a new one is on order, but it flows good so we are not starving the carbs.
Checked spark and we are getting good spark.
Checked all these things several times. It idles good, but will not rev in neutral, or with the clutch pulled and in first. When I full choke it it idles up.
I am at a loss now, and thinking the CDI is bad but want to see if anyone else has any other ideas.
Don't know of anyone near me in eastern NE, that I can pull my CDI and check it in there raptor or vise versa.
Thanks for the help,
David
Edit: We flushed 10 quarts of oil through the engine to try to get any trace fuel out of the motor. Pulled all drain plugs etc... missed that in the main post.
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Thanks for the welcome. Gas cap vent is clear. Just had it all apart. looked good. Started it up and same thing. Going to valve's this afternoon when it cools down a bit.Check you gas cap vent and make sure it is not clogged up. Welcome to the forum....
Any other ideas?
In which carb did you put the 140 main jet? The 80 pilot air jet?
It certainly sounds as if you did everything (cleaning) right... so now I'm looking at mistakenly swapped jets.
"When I full choke it it idles up" - what does this mean? That idle speed increases when you choke it?
Does the RPM ever break through where it seems to be sticking? Keep in mind the RPM limiter for PB and reverse tend to cause it to spit and sputter and never EVER go above a particular RPM - the spark is actually interrupted above that RPM... so unless you are seeing this it is still carb related.
It certainly sounds as if you did everything (cleaning) right... so now I'm looking at mistakenly swapped jets.
"When I full choke it it idles up" - what does this mean? That idle speed increases when you choke it?
Does the RPM ever break through where it seems to be sticking? Keep in mind the RPM limiter for PB and reverse tend to cause it to spit and sputter and never EVER go above a particular RPM - the spark is actually interrupted above that RPM... so unless you are seeing this it is still carb related.
Right carb had the 145 and the 80 pilot (choke jet) if i remember correctly. The idle speed increases when choked. I can barely get into the throttle and it pops, sputters and dies, but I think a few times we did get it to rev a little but it would not hold.
When I took the carbs apart, i put everything that came out of the particular carb in a pile, and matched the jet sizes to the new ones when they went back in, but that doesn't mean I didn't make a mistake. What jets are supposed to be in what carb?
When I took the carbs apart, i put everything that came out of the particular carb in a pile, and matched the jet sizes to the new ones when they went back in, but that doesn't mean I didn't make a mistake. What jets are supposed to be in what carb?
As your sitting on the bike 140L/145R carb.
Ill check it. ThanksAs your sitting on the bike 140L/145R carb.
Have you cut the green/yellow at the CDI and grounded green/white at the CDI (ground the wire going TO the CDI)?
From the manual - carb 1 is left. pilot air jet = 80, main jet = 140 in left (and choke or starter jet = 95).
Yes, wires, cut and isolated/grounded at the CDI. Just checked the jetting and it is correct to the table you posted on all jets. Only thing im lost on is the MAJ being #130. Is that the mixture screws?
Yeah, but where is the location of it? I have the pilot inlet jets, the 80 and 150 in, but I guess there was no 130 in the carb because it was completely disassembled
I have the 95 starter jet in, but the other carb is just an open hole. No threads for anything. I might be missing something or just missed it?
I have the 95 starter jet in, but the other carb is just an open hole. No threads for anything. I might be missing something or just missed it?
The right carb has a open hole with no threads in it.
Okay, making sure I am not going crazy lol. Where is the Main air jet located?The right carb has a open hole with no threads in it.
Choke jet is only in the left carb. (choke cable only goes to left carb)
Where is the #130 main air jet located?
Have you checked that there is continuity between the wiring harness and the CDI in respect to the green and white wire, this green and white wire must be grounded to the CDI...........Yes, wires, cut and isolated/grounded at the CDI. Just checked the jetting and it is correct to the table you posted on all jets. Only thing im lost on is the MAJ being #130. Is that the mixture screws?
yes, I ohmed the green/white, green/yellow before i cut, and they looked good. but cut them after to just be sure. I am almost positive the cdi went bad. The battery was hooked up the whole time it was stored so who knows what went bad.Have you checked that there is continuity between the wiring harness and the CDI in respect to the green and white wire, this green and white wire must be grounded to the CDI...........
I am at a total loss if it isnt the cdi.
Did you check the green and white wire's connection at the cdi............yes, I ohmed the green/white, green/yellow before i cut, and they looked good. but cut them after to just be sure. I am almost positive the cdi went bad. The battery was hooked up the whole time it was stored so who knows what went bad.
I am at a total loss if it isnt the cdi.
Green white is cut and very much grounded. Green Yellow is cut and open circuit. I will check them again when I get back out there later.
Also the plugs look immaculate. No corrosion or anything on the CDI terminals or on the plug side (best i can see). I will take the plug apart just to be sure its not that.
Also the plugs look immaculate. No corrosion or anything on the CDI terminals or on the plug side (best i can see). I will take the plug apart just to be sure its not that.
The important thing is the green and white wires connection at the Cdi.Green white is cut and very much grounded. Green Yellow is cut and open circuit. I will check them again when I get back out there later.
Also the plugs look immaculate. No corrosion or anything on the CDI terminals or on the plug side (best i can see). I will take the plug apart just to be sure its not that.
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