Raptor Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does ayone here have info on jetting options with a ct racing exhaust, K&N and air box lid drilled? I got a great deal on the exhaust system but no instructions on jetting. I believe I am about 1500 ft above sea level. It is about -20 celcius here right now. How much do I need to change the jetting when it warms up to summer temps around +10 to +30 celcius, or does it not matter much?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,016 Posts
It really won't matter much.

If the airbox lid is modified and in place I would use these settings:

Left main Mikuni 160
Right main Mikuni 165
Pilot jets 25
Mixture screw 2 turns to 2.5 turns from fully seated.

That should be a good start. Replace your plug and reccheck plug color.

~Brian
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,568 Posts
Temp does play a role in jetting, if you get the jetting down right down while its around 10-15 deg F, when it gets warmer your going to have to re-jet, if you don't, your going to be running very rich.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
I would say he is about right, although on the directions for mine it recommended 3 or 3.5 turns out on each fuel mixture screw. Try it and see what it does and then go from there. If you didnt have a lid I would say go to 165/170 mains. I also put the e-clip in the 4th notch down on the needle in both carbs instead of the 3rd like most people. Thats how Allen sets them up.

I think a the rule is that every 30 deg F temperature change is about a jet size. So if it got 30 deg warmer, you would go from 160/165 to 155/160. If it got 30 deg F colder then you would do from 160/165 to a 165/170.

I was just wondering but where are you at that its -4 deg F? Its in the teens where I'm at and thats why I havent been messing with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,568 Posts
sounds about right..if you want to jet it right now for that temp, your looking at about 3 turns out on the #25 pilots, 4th clip needles, 165-170 mains (I'm betting on the 170-175 for that cold). Soon as it gets warm, your gonna be at around 2 turns or so on the pilots, 3rd clip needles, 160-165 mains...maybe 165-170 if you pop the air box lid...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,786 Posts
I'm at 170/175 mains, 3rd clip, OEM pilots, fuel screws at 2.75, and about 1200 ft elevation. I think i got a single backfire or pop on the last ride at about 68 degrees F.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
WOW guys, thanks alot. That should definatly get me going. Awesome responses and quick. BTW I am in northern Alberta, Canada. We get some pretty wild weather up here a differance of about 80 or 90 degrees celcius. -50 to around +38 celcius. I never ride below - 25, that get a little cold on the rappy. We have alot of trails, lotsa muskeg, even the biggest dunes in canada, I believe they are around 40 square kilometers. Alot of that is protected though. I am going up for may long this year and will post pics of an arctic desert for you guys. LOL. Thanks again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Geez man I wouldnt be riding at -25C thats -13F. You would look like a snowman when you got back home. Man thats cold. Man I've never heard of an arctic desert before you will definitley have to post some pictures of that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Like I said, it does get pretty warm up here in the summer. What's 30 celcius? like 78 or 80 f I think. Warm enough for me. The road to six lakes (our dunes) is like 100' wide and like a big sand halfpipe. 4X4 truck can't touch it if they arn't well equiped. About the coolest place to ride around here, in the summer anyway. I'll post some pix soon of our winter trails.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
That sounds pretty sweet man I'd like to see pics. 30 C is 86 F. Thats pretty warm. About the warmest it gets in the summer in WV is 100. It doesnt happen often though. Its freakish if it goes over that but it has happened but most of the time its not that hot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I installed the jets and went with the 170/175 setup 3rd clip and 3 turns on the mixture screws. Runs great at idle and seems to go like a bat out of hell but thats just rippin around the yard at work. I had it in the shop to do the work and it seems to be a little rich but I imagine this will be corrected when running outside.

I was wondering about the pilot jets! I only have 22.5's in there, with my mods should I change this? I see some people on the forum are running 27's I think (can't remember exactly). Do I only need to change pilots when I can't adjust enough with the mixture screws? Do I screw in the mixture screws to lean it out? If I feel it needs it. Man!! I do have to sy that that ct full system is just rude!! I can finally break the rear loose with my ice studs without having going insane with the throttle :thumbsup:. I rev the bike and you can see the rear end torque just sitting there. Seems like it gave it alot more torque.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,062 Posts
If you can idle and start the bike without any problems or excessive headpipe glow then you're ok. I added larger pilots to make it easier to lug in the cold weather.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks! great to hear. "easier to lug" I don't know what that means. I ride all winter up here and it gets cold. Should I do this. Man I feel like an idiot :eek:, I know it's something simple but I don't get it :crazy:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Alright, lol. I gotcha. Thanks again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I thought it was blowing a little to much smoke so I turned the idle screw in 1 turn so I'm at 2 turns now. If the pipes glow does that mean it's rich or lean? I have read both in these forums. Also I have seen this question also a few times which way on the idle screw does which? IN - LEANER and OUT - RICHER??? or IN - RICHER and OUT - LEANER???Please someone respond to this I am at a loss. :lol: :lol: Never messed with carbs before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Messin with the quad a bit tonight at work and it seemed to have a midrange stumble so I went to the 4th clip but then it seemed to run real high on the idle then it seemed to drop to nothing and want to stall, I'd catch it and rev it up a little then it would rev high again. I forgot to turn the idle screws back in.
I am now at 170L / 175R 4th clip and two turns each idle screw. I still have the 22.5 pilots. I'm wondering if I should go back to the 3rd clip and 3 turns and then get the 25 pilots??I am thinking I should go up to the 25, quite cold here right now -25 celcius.

I have the air box lid drilled (2) 2" holes, and the baffles taken out of the lid with snorkel off (I've read it should be (4) 2" holes). CT full system and K&N filter. The filter seal ripped and I need a new one??? Is there supposed to be one there? Looked like two sided tape or something on there. Could that cause me to suck more air, it seems to fit nice and flush to the front of the air box.

I only messed with it because it didn't seem to react to the pipe and jetting the way my buddies 400ex did when we installed the stuff tonight, damn thing was sleeping all this time. Not anymore, still won't keep up to the rappy though even runnin like $hit. :thumbsup: :grin_nod:

Any Ideas would be great, I called yami here today and they said they only had like 35-45 pilots. Not sure what thats for but it's not gonna work for me, don't think they're for a rappy!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,726 Posts
In is leaner, out is richer

As for the holes in the air box, my lid was cut to the point that all that remained was enough to hold a stock style K&N in place and I had a 3 1/2" hole in the back of the box. The entire box has since gone away. Drill as many holes as you think you can get away with for your riding conditions.
The prefilters do a good job of keeping water out of the filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,693 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well I'm here at work again, workin hard........ on the rappy. I'm back to the 3rd clip and 170L / 175R and 3 1/2 screw turns. I checked my plug and it didn't bad, a tannish and a tad of oil. But it's still sputteringmid to top end. I am thinking since the 4th to 3rd clip didn't make much of a differance to the sputtering that maybe it's the rev limiter. So....... here's a storey. After I bought this thing 2 months ago and rolled it the second time (stock tires don't do so good on snow going up hill BTW). I noticed the top electrical plug on the clutch perch was cracked and poped off, there was no spring or pin or anything of the such. It ran good, never noticed the sputtering until I put the ct system on. At the same time as the install of the exhaust I removed the remainder of that wiring harness because I was going to get a differant clutch perch. I blocked off the parking brake and removed the cable aswell. Question is, could the guy I bought this from have modified that plug on the perch to bypass the park brake rev limiter, and if so when I unpluged the pigtail and left the plug from the wireing harness open could this cause the sputtering? and if that is so than would making a jumper for this open plug fix my problem? yes this bike has the reverse rev limiter taken off. On the needles when you move the clip (top is number 1 right?) Moving the clip down richens the mixture and up leans it? I am so lost lol, but I'm learning.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top