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the blueing on the big end of the crank is normal, the small end is not normal and was caused by a lack of oil judging from the looks of the wrist pin. It is a dry sump oil system but there is about 3/4th of a qt of oil that remains in the cases.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Thanks for the info... I'll get more pics after I get home from work today...

Thanks again,
RaptorGirl
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
OK, so here's an update...

Over the weekend, my boyfriend and I completely tore the motor out of the quad. We completely split the cases and found piston parts everywhere. Thankfully everything inside is looking pretty good, except the piston, of course. All the gears, bearings, crank, cylinder walls, etc are good to go. Basically, I'll be able to get away with a piston kit. I got a .040 over piston & gasket set and also a top end gasket kit. I'll bore the cylinder walls and should be good to go as far as that goes.

While I have it apart, I'm going to also put a new chain and sprocket kit on it and new swing arm bearings. In total, I was able to get all the parts delivered to my door for about $260....and will get away with no labor....Will have to spend an additional 20-80 dollars to get the cylinder walls bored....would be about 20 bucks if i can get a distant relative to do it for me, otherwise would be about 60-80 at a machine shop around here....

So overall, could have been A LOT worse....but at least now I know this quad will be good to go for a LONG time with the fresh rebuild.

Any ideas as to what could have caused this in the first place?

Thanks,
RaptorGirl
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
firstraptor said:
Add a timing chain to your list and the oilpump gear is plastic, look it over too.
Why would you think I need a new timing chain? Seems fine, nothing wrong with it visually. Any specific reason you think I'd need a new one?

Also, oil pump gear is also good to go visually. We looked at EVERYTHING over the weekend!
 

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RaptorGirl said:


Any ideas as to what could have caused this in the first place?

Thanks,
RaptorGirl
Read my 2 above posts, you have an oiling issue. You need to add a new oil pump and a new timing chain to your list of parts or you'll be right back on here in a couple weeks with the same problem or worse this next time.
 

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ya and after you get it running make sure to check the spark plug to be sure that it is not running to lean, that looks like you might have been detonating along with oil starvation
 

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phucker said:
ya and after you get it running make sure to check the spark plug to be sure that it is not running to lean, that looks like you might have been detonating along with oil starvation
I'm sure that once the piston reached 2000 degrees from the friction, there was some detonation that occured. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
So, if there is some minor pitting on the connecting rod where it meets with the wrist pin, would it be recommended that the rod be replaced? I've heard that the minor pitting can cause other issues later. I've also heard that it may be fine and have no additional issues. I can get a rebuilt crank for about the same price that I could get a new connecting rod installed on my current crank. (My boyfriend and I could put the new crank in ourselves, but we'd have to get the new connecting rod pressed in at a shop.) Is there anything we should look for in making the decisison to replace the rod/crank or just go with the existing one?

Thanks,
RaptorGirl
 

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Sounds like you're in need of a new rod. The question seems to be how that rod will come packaged.

If you're just looking for the rod itself you can get one for around 150 bucks from hotrods or 175 from Barker. Carillo also has one out there for under 200 bucks. Do not install a new OEM rod or use a rebuilt crank with an OEM rod, they're weak and troublesome and they're not any cheaper.

The next option is a new hotrods standard stroke crank/rod assembly for around 250 bucks. Whether this makes more sense than a new rod is based largely upon the cost of having a new rod put in your old crank and any extra bearings needed. The hotrods assembly will require only one of the main bearings which runs around 35 bucks. IMO this is the best way to go if you're on a budget and want to keep things simple and reliable.

If there's a little more flexibility with the budget I'd highly recommend the 4mm stroker crank from Barker/Vito's. It runs around 450 dollars but provides a good increase in low and midrange power while maintaining very good reliability. The Barker/Vito's assembly is a better buy than the Hotrods 4mm stroker kit in most situations because the Barker assembly can use any standard piston including the stock piston while the Hotrods stroker assembly requires the use of special pistons. The standard stroke hotods assembly I mentioned earlier also works with standard pistons including the stock piston.

Regardless of what you go with I'd suggest that you re-ring the piston and hone the cylinder, a good idea since you're replacing the rod due to wear.
 
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