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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys here is my problem, when the bike is cold(not run for a few days) it will crank over great, it is getting fuel, has spark, carbs clean, air filter is clean, battery is in good shape (new battery), valves have been adjusted. When it cranks over for a bit it starts slightly popping thru the carbs, but no start.If i hook up jumper cables to my truck it starts instantly then no problems for the rest of the day, it will even start fine the next day. It also has new UP boots. I am sure the are no air leaks. It also runs like a raped ape once its started. A few specs about it are- full gytr exhaust, rev max cdi,open airbox with k&n. Any help would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also my jetting is as follows, 160/165 25 pilots 3 turns out on mixture screws
 

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Ok guys here is my problem, when the bike is cold(not run for a few days) it will crank over great, it is getting fuel, has spark, carbs clean, air filter is clean, battery is in good shape (new battery), valves have been adjusted. When it cranks over for a bit it starts slightly popping thru the carbs, but no start.If i hook up jumper cables to my truck it starts instantly then no problems for the rest of the day, it will even start fine the next day. It also has new UP boots. I am sure the are no air leaks. It also runs like a raped ape once its started. A few specs about it are- full gytr exhaust, rev max cdi,open airbox with k&n. Any help would be great.
Make sure the choke cable is setup so it pulls the maximum when opening the choke, meaning virtually no slack in the cable............
 

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Master of the Electron
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What changes between trying to start on its own battery (won't start cold) and adding the jumpers to another battery (does start cold)? Does it crank faster? Does spark look brighter? Do Mars and Venus align? The pertinent issue is that it DOES make it work... now the question that needs to be answered to determine the cause is - WHY?

Who adjusted the valves and how confident are you that they were done properly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Quad, I do ALL my own work and have been for many years,as far as what is the difference, thats the question, when it is cranking on it's own battery the speed at which it turns over is fine, at that point where I know its not going to start, i can hook it up(still turns over) and as soon as I touch the start button BAM its ready to go. I thought I have looked at everything but i have got to be missing something.
The only thing I have not tried is rubbing its belly to wake it up gently!
 

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You are familiar with compression stroke vs. exhaust stroke when adjusting the valves, correct? I realize that you say you adjusted correctly, but your symptoms fit the tight intake valve syndrome EXACTLY. I would check them again, making double sure that they're being adjusted on the correct stroke to the correct spacing.

This is said with no insult intended, but we don't know you, nor your true level of expertise. Maybe 20% of the issues we come across on this forum are due to 'pilot error' - incorrect electrical or mechanical practices done by well meaning forum members who just don't know any better.

Again, the fact that it starts with jumpers is paramount here... Assuming that the valves are adjusted correctly, I would be grabbing a volt meter and begin measuring voltages when trying to start, initially at the battery and moving out from there, to find out what's going on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Quad, I understand you being sceptical of my abilities, Let me introduce myself, I am a 42 year old male who is heavily into hotrods, streetrods, and basicaly anything that gets my blood pumpin, I have extensive experience with high performance supercharged engines and do most of my own machine work, My father builds topend hotrods, I help with fabrication when I have time between my normal job and coaching my son's sports,
I currently own a 69 Camaro with a Blown 350 chevy. The quads I run are my Raptor 660, my wife rides a Polaris 400 sport, and then I have 2 smaller Quads for my 2 oldest kids. I am not trying to brag here just giving you alittle background,
The valves were adjusted on the correct stroke for the intake and the exhaust, I set them at .15mm for the Intake and .20 for the exhaust, this is what I found to be the maximum in the service manual. Since last night I left the battery tender on it, when I came home from work today, it fired right up no problem, no choke, no issues. So this leads me to believe that it may not be getting enough amps while cranking. Is it possible that the cdi box takes alittle more juice?
 

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Quad, I understand you being sceptical of my abilities, Let me introduce myself, I am a 42 year old male who is heavily into hotrods, streetrods, and basicaly anything that gets my blood pumpin, I have extensive experience with high performance supercharged engines and do most of my own machine work, My father builds topend hotrods, I help with fabrication when I have time between my normal job and coaching my son's sports,
I currently own a 69 Camaro with a Blown 350 chevy. The quads I run are my Raptor 660, my wife rides a Polaris 400 sport, and then I have 2 smaller Quads for my 2 oldest kids. I am not trying to brag here just giving you alittle background,
The valves were adjusted on the correct stroke for the intake and the exhaust, I set them at .15mm for the Intake and .20 for the exhaust, this is what I found to be the maximum in the service manual. Since last night I left the battery tender on it, when I came home from work today, it fired right up no problem, no choke, no issues. So this leads me to believe that it may not be getting enough amps while cranking. Is it possible that the cdi box takes alittle more juice?
If it did, it would smoke the wiring...............probably the battery isnt up to its job any more...........
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The battery currently in it was bought last summer (then again I got it off Ebay) Is there a good battery you could recomend? I am going to test the amp drop while cranking tomorrow (we had baseball practice tonight). the more I think about it the more I think this may be the problem, one more thought is , would spark plug gap have any influence here?
 

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It is possible that the battery voltage is dropping enough while starting that the CDI/coil isn't able to generate a good spark.
 

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hey guys ive got a problem with my raptor 660. i just rebuilt it and now it wont start unless i put the choke on and when i take it off my atv shuts down.
 

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hey guys ive got a problem with my raptor 660. i just rebuilt it and now it wont start unless i put the choke on and when i take it off my atv shuts down.
Might wanna start your own thread so everyone can help you individually. I think I just seen a new post earlier with the same problem.. searching will probably get you quicker results.
 

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hey guys ive got a problem with my raptor 660. i just rebuilt it and now it wont start unless i put the choke on and when i take it off my atv shuts down.
COuld be lot of things but dirty or plugged jets in the carbs is a possibility, but more detail will get betters responses from us...........
 

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The battery currently in it was bought last summer (then again I got it off Ebay) Is there a good battery you could recomend? I am going to test the amp drop while cranking tomorrow (we had baseball practice tonight). the more I think about it the more I think this may be the problem, one more thought is , would spark plug gap have any influence here?
Yes, I agree that it is most likely the battery - however, usually battery issues manifest through slow or no cranking - your symptom is a bit unusual... but working when jumping (and now after a fresh charge) makes the battery the #1 suspect by a very wide margin.

BTW, look at the VOLTAGE drop when starting - this is the important measurement - and it would help to measure it several places - at battery, at starter solenoid, at starter, AND at the red/black stripe wire that leads to the CDI - use a straight pin, needle or safety pin to pierce the insluation, make sure the metal is in contact with copper, and put your meter lead on the pin. This wire is the 12V supply to the CDI and if if it drops below 8 or 9 volts I'd be concerned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I had a chance to look at things today and here is what I found. At some point, some of the wires going to the CDI had gotten pinched between the battery and the battery box, There were 2 wires that had the insulation rubbed off but the wires were not broken,I have not had a chance to test the voltage at different locations yet but I am hopping I have time tomorrow to check these locations, I will test first then repair the wires then retest, on a side note it fired right up on its own today
 

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I had a chance to look at things today and here is what I found. At some point, some of the wires going to the CDI had gotten pinched between the battery and the battery box, There were 2 wires that had the insulation rubbed off but the wires were not broken,I have not had a chance to test the voltage at different locations yet but I am hopping I have time tomorrow to check these locations, I will test first then repair the wires then retest, on a side note it fired right up on its own today

It sounds as if you are on the right track. Glad you found something that may interfere with the ignition system...........
 
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