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Discussion Starter #1
Hey I'm thinking of doing some engine mods on my rap. I was thinking the HC stage 3 and while its apart I think I'll throw a new piston in. What compression should I go with? Will I need a new mapp? What is the most reliable set up that will get me more jam? I am aware that new head studs are recommended as well. I am currently running a hmf pipe with a hmf optimizer and a k&n filter in the stock air box. I like the torque thru the gears so I don't know if I want to change the sprockets but if I gain some power from the engine mods I may just change the sprockets as well.
Thanks for any advice.
 

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If your willing to run race gas or e85 then go 14.1 if pump gas 11.1 but you might still need to add a little race fuel depending on you elevation. 14.1 revs up alot faster then 11.1 makes more tq and hp on top end.
 

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Hey I'm thinking of doing some engine mods on my rap. I was thinking the HC stage 3 and while its apart I think I'll throw a new piston in. What compression should I go with? Will I need a new mapp? What is the most reliable set up that will get me more jam? I am aware that new head studs are recommended as well. I am currently running a hmf pipe with a hmf optimizer and a k&n filter in the stock air box. I like the torque thru the gears so I don't know if I want to change the sprockets but if I gain some power from the engine mods I may just change the sprockets as well.
Thanks for any advice.
Any modification that changes airflow, such as a cam, throttle body, or porting requires a different amount of fuel.
 

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If you ride at sea level, get a CP Log piston, But if you ONLY ride at the top of Baldy Mountain, get the CP 11.5:1 Tech piston. A stage 3 cam is a good choice with a compression increase.. All are available from Steve at TQS.com, a forum vendor, and reliable when assembled properly. He can also supply a new map for your cam choice, no extra charge. If you don't ride in mud or water, take off your air box lid. A piston change, as said, will use your old map.


I would like to debate with 't web' about porting needing a different map. With porting, a gas/air mixture requirement should not change, it just flows more efficiently.


WELCOME TO THE FORUM.
 

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If you ride at sea level, get a CP Log piston, But if you ONLY ride at the top of Baldy Mountain, get the CP 11.5:1 Tech piston. A stage 3 cam is a good choice with a compression increase.. All are available from Steve at TQS.com, a forum vendor, and reliable when assembled properly. He can also supply a new map for your cam choice, no extra charge. If you don't ride in mud or water, take off your air box lid. A piston change, as said, will use your old map.


I would like to debate with 't web' about porting needing a different map. With porting, a gas/air mixture requirement should not change, it just flows more efficiently.


WELCOME TO THE FORUM.

True, but who ports a head and uses the stock cam and/or throttle body?
 

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True, but who ports a head and uses the stock cam and/or throttle body?
So, I agree, if you port and add a cam, bigger TB or bigger valves, you may need a new map.

But, if you have a cam, bigger TB already, you don't need a new map unless you add bigger valves.

It's kind a play on words, but if you are only porting, you don't need a new map. Air thru the TB, air out thru the exhaust. Change either, change the map.

To the Mush, while the head is off, it's best to get porting now. Even if you have to wait to get the cam, depending on your what you can afford at one time. The cam can be installed without pulling the head later.


Edit and disclaimer; see my lower post for more info. As said this is a debate and may need it's own thread.
 

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I literally just changes cams and am running the map off the old cam. Runs like a top still.
It may not make a difference. If you look at most generic maps, all they want are intake filter brand, lid on or off, and exhaust brand. Cam, porting, big bore, stroker, TB size or compression don't seem to matter much. Air in, air out determine the amount of fuel to add .
 

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That is true. A cam shouldn't change the a/f ratio but porting, bore, and stroke will. increased air intake or volume will require more fuel. But that is just my understanding.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for everyone's input. I am at about 750' above sea level. I have not started yet I want to get everything in line before I pull the pin and start ripping it apart.
I was not planning on putting a new throttle body in but is it nessesary with the mods I want to do? And if I was to put a bigger one on would the hmf optimizer adjust itself for the new air/fuel mixture?
As for the new piston is it nessesary to port the head? I read that the hc 3 doesn't have a longer stroke I was hoping to just get away with a new piston, rings, gasket, and studs. And I would prefer to still run pump fuel. Highest octane we have at the pump is 92.
 

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Thanks for everyone's input. I am at about 750' above sea level. I have not started yet I want to get everything in line before I pull the pin and start ripping it apart.
I was not planning on putting a new throttle body in but is it nessesary with the mods I want to do? And if I was to put a bigger one on would the hmf optimizer adjust itself for the new air/fuel mixture?
As for the new piston is it nessesary to port the head? I read that the hc 3 doesn't have a longer stroke I was hoping to just get away with a new piston, rings, gasket, and studs. And I would prefer to still run pump fuel. Highest octane we have at the pump is 92.
You don't have to do porting or a bigger throttle body. They are just mods that help make more power, especially the porting. You won't wind up with a crappy running bike because you left the head stock, but it is power left on the table at the most cost and labor effective time to do it. Sometimes cams require some clearancing, but I'm not sure that the hotcam 3 does.
 

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A stage 3 hotcam is a drop in cam that requires no modification and a great cam for what you are doing. You really don't have to do studs if you would rather save the money. Studs are best for piece of mind and higher compression such as 13-14:1.

Also your programmer won't "self" adjust, you'll have to adjust it manually and I'm not familiar with them at all so can't help you with that. But with HMF exhaust, intake, programmer, piston (on pump gas), and HC3 you'll have a great running quad making high 50s in horsepower.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Perfect that's what I want to hear lol. Thanks guys I read through a lot of other threads and I have to say this one helped me out more than all of them. I won't be doing the mods for another month or 2 it's winter here and I won't be riding it till April but I will keep you updated on my project.
 
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