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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Building this to be a solid, problem free quad to run around the yard and take 2-3 Silver Lake dunes trip a year. Avoiding buying a 660 or 700, which would make this cost alot more. The 350 is a solid engine, from what I have experienced, and is enough for me.

2007 Raptor, from Pennsylvania, purchased for $1000 with title.
'87 motor from my previous Warrior
Wiseco 11.1 piston
Niche 1557-3 camshaft
FCR MX 37mm carb from '07 YZ250F
HMF for '04 YZF450 lengthened to fit
K&N filter(not pictured)
Big Bear 350 oil cooler mod w/ cooling fan
Air scoops
Unknown brand +6 swingarm
Warrior adjustable dogbone
Dual piston YFZ450 front calipers
Big Bear 350 vented camshaft cover

I had to do alot to fit the FCR carb. A YFZ450 throttle cable, to start. Modified the stock choke to use as a hot start. Wolverine intake adapter had rubber stripped off, smoothed out, and used a silicone turbo boot to mate with the carb. Also had to make a wood block, carefully heat up the fuel tank, and reshape it to clear one side.

I made my own spark arrestor for the HMF pipe, since it was missing upon arrival. Also repacked it with the "elephant" kit.

The swingarm was missing the larger sleeve to use a factory chain roller. I sleeved it with a piece of copper and used machine washers for the back side

The oil cooler was mounted, with custom brackets, to be under the front "vent" plastic cover.

Air dams were modified YFZ450 dams that were easy to adapt with trimming, a little re-bending, and a new lower mount.

Big-Bear vented camshaft cover was installed for better crankcase ventilation. It can't hurt.

I hope the extra effort to use the FCR carburetor is worth it. The '87 Warrior, with a dialed carb, stock Raptor 660 muffler, pulled super hard. The Raptor chassis is ment to be an upgrade(20 years newer).

Niche camshaft is supposed to be a litttle upgrade with slightly higher lift than the stock Raptor 350 cam.

Also added a Moose crankcase saver. Looks like it will work great. I'm going to run 14/40 gears on either 21" tires or "20 paddles.

All stock Raptor 350 electronics. Stator, ignition module, and all. Exhaust is wrapped all the way back, over ceramic header paint. Should be real fun!

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Forgot that I used YFZ450 spindles. They are aluminum, one piece design. 1:1 turn ratio instead of about 1.17:1 factory. So maybe a bit quicker steering response. Buttoned up a few small things, started the wiring to the electric oil cooler fan, bleeding the front brakes, re-lashed valves, and got the crankcase vents done. I had to rtv up a toggle switch to seal it, as the "marine" grade ones at autozone still had holes in them. Gotta keep water, and sand, out of it.
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Waiting on a new rear brake hose, 90 degree hot start plunger kit, and a new clutch shaft return spring. Should have everything ready to go, besides those parts.

BTW, I have random parts from other models because I took up parting out old Yamahas on the side. Got a large lot of YZF450 parts early on. I did not purchase the parts, seperatly, with intent to build this atv. Raptor 660 spindles are much beefier, with the same dimensions as the YFZ450 ones but, are way over-kill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Rear brake line mounted. Bled the brakes, and rear master was blown. Took the '87 Warrior master, swapped the resevoir and hose, and all is working.

The hot start cable is done. Fuel tank done. Will have the rear plastics on tonight. New clutch shaft spring is here. The ecu, relay, and wiring will be done. Should be able to fire it up within the next few days. Fresh 93 is waiting(less than 2 weeks old).

After it's together, and working, I will clean up the dirty parts amd give it a shine. I only cleaned them up enough for assembly. Otherwise, cleaning would have taken up too much time.

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Crazy how the brakes from a 35 year old atv are still in better shape than a 15 year old one. I also rebuilt a '87 Warrior rear caliper, for this quad. This Raptor 350 must have been under water or in the muddy woods, most of its life.
 

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Nice work!! Thanks for the pictures. Swapped an 09 for a 660 I was working on for my son. Pretty quick little machines they are, came with full fmf and k&n
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's done. Had to re-route the front brake lines, and swap the original swing-link(dog bone) back onto the rear. The Raptor 350 shock resevoir needs the extra angle for clearance, the stock link gives, to clear the resevoir. Fixed up the broken plastic mounts, and got all the wiring done.

Besides finding a bad connection to the 2-wire key switch, all the electrical seems to work. The reverse switch may be bad, light is stuck on. The new petcock I had was longer than the original, so the plastic knob/key no longer fits(big deal).

All that is left is to mount the foot pegs back on, hook up the rear brake linkage, gas it up, and go. I should be able to do a day trip to the Silver Lake dunes next weekend.

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Carb tuning is going to suck, but should be worth it. I have a friend with a Dynojet dyno. Might be able to do a run on it before next weekend. It will be worth the time just to confirm afr. I blew up the original '87 Warrior because I ran 87 gas, with the unknown 12:1 piston and a lower end knock, for 1-1/2 days WOT till it grenaded. The connecting rod bent 90*. I was fortunate to have a complete spare '94 Warrior to use parts for rebuild.

  • After having other brands, I'm a huge Yamaha fan. There is a solid reason why old Yamahas sell for more. '87-up Yamaha bikes and atvs are awesome.
I do have a Raptor 660, currently. The title situation on it is messed up. It's not stolen, but was registered out of state, and paperwork sucks. I might do a 660 Blaster
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
New pick-up coil came in. Test out at 523 ohms. Should be good for install. Hopefully my new stator cover gasket is re-usable. I usually only dab rtv where there is joints, and actually torque everything to spec. It has not ran yet, so it shouldn't be stuck.

Bad news is, too late for a dunes trip this weekend. I could get it running tomorrow, but won't have enough time to tune it. Good news is, I'm home all weekend to tune it and get it dialed in.

I'm up late most nights. Had to modify my battery hold down for the "exact fit" replacement battery. Had to remove around 3/8". These are not my greatest welds.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Will be back to first start tomorrow. Still reading 522 ohms at the plug after reassembly. The old one finally gave a reading of 1.12 Mohms(mega ohms). Took my time, soldered the wires near the plug, pulled pins from the plugs, and re-did the outside insulation of the harness. Better to replace just the pick-up coil than chance it with a cheap aftermarket stator assembly.

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Quick tip, if you have to work on your stator, tip the quad onto a jackstand. The oil will go to the other side and not drain/drip out all over your floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Runs awesome! It fired up immediately, after I remembered to re-attach the spark plug wire. It's such a huge difference, to how it ran in the '87/'94 warrior('87 warrior/94' electronics). I think it's mostly due to the FCR carb and the more open HMF pipe.

The power is awesome. Pulls so hard, from the start. I need to adjust the pump jet a bit, as it has a slight hesitation hiccup snapping the throttle. Hits rev limiter so quick, I can't tell if it has chop from too much fuel. The plug shows it's running a bit rich. The pilot seems spot on. So maybe knock the main down 1 or 2.

No leaks with the oil cooler, just small electrical crap doesn't work. The reverse switch(case mounted on the left side) is bad. Neutral switch doesn't work, either. Brake switch on the handle bar brake lever was stretched out, and always reading brakes. Replaced the brake lever with an adjustable one from a YFZ450, and a spare switch. Currently bending the clutch lever back straight.

On top of that, my new FVP brand agm battery shorted out before I actually got to use it. Reads 9-10 volts after a night after charge, and has no amperage to start. Definitely a bad cell. So another new battery tomorrow.

Please, if someone has better luck with batteries, do tell of one that will last more than a year, or a bit over. I go with cheap ones, because none of them last much more than 1-2 years. Even with taking them out, and storing them in a conditioned space over the winter, they fail.

When my buddy with the dyno gets back from the dunes, I'm running it. Tuesday or Wednesday, it's on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also just found out the throttle was not opening 100%. More like 90%. Probably won't make much difference, but still... Easy adjustment.

The YFZ brake lever is a huge upgrade. I can keep it closer to the handle bars, and still lock the front brakes up. The small difference in distance, is huge while riding. It's a direct bolt-up, no modification.

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2nd pic is close to the factory lever. The YFZ lever is adjustable. As the brakes wear, I can adjust it.
 

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I went with the Lithium batteries this go round for mine. I have had one in my wife’s Raptor, which was already installed in it back in 2015 so I have no idea how old it is but have never had any issues. I purchased an Antigravity brand 801 series from Rocky Mountain ATV.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No offense, but I'm not sold on lithium batteries. Especially on the simple charging circuit these have. I'm not completely against them, but I'm not sure.

Plus, they aren't cheap, and I would also need to buy a charger rated for them, too.

That's my observation. I won't even leave batteries on a high amp charger overnight. Trickle only.

Got a replacment battery. It's on the trickle charger now. Using a 10Ah battery, instead of the standard 8.6Ah.

Also noticed tonight my left upper control arm is bent. The ball-joint end is bent down slightly, making the wheel have positive camber. Looks like I could bend it back with a very large crescent wrench. Longer tie rods are also on the way.

Also, I think I should tune the pump jet before I make any changes to the main. The stall/hiccups could be due to it catching up to the snap open of the throttle. The plug looked half rich, half clean. I could also dyno it with afr readings, to confirm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ran it for a bit today. Mild weather, for the time of year(78*f 50-60% humidity). My low end, pilot seems spot on. I turned the mixture screw to 2-1/4 turns out and got the best results. I have played with the pump/bleed jet a bit.

At part to near half throttle, it's super snappy and just goes to whatever throttle I give it.

At WOT and high rpm, I get a consistent miss/pop. Tells me the main is too rich. In-between is a bit different. Snaps back to idle instantly.

From lower rpm to WOT, I still get a stall(lean). From mid to high, it pulls hard with the occasional miss. Even with the adjustable leak jet turned up(not near all the way, though).

This leads me to believe I need to move the needle up, and maybe downsize the main 1 or 2 sizes.

Sound right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Another possible issue. Between the old '87 Warrior and this Raptor 350, I get alot more tipping while turning. The quad wants to immediately tip outwards, with any steering input, and lifts the inside rear wheel off the ground. It's awesome for 45-50mph drifts in the yard and 180s, but it seems way too extreme. The front shocks still feel very stiff, and have no signs of leaking out. It's like a bad caster issue, where it feels like it's at 0*.

I'm very ignorant on ATV suspension tuning. Is this just a weight bias thing, where I need to learn to lean back more? Or could this be solved with front suspension tuning?

I have rode a decent amount of ATVs in the past. None acted as extreme as this. I have, basically, a stock Raptor 350 with a 6" longer rear swingarm.

Now that I think about it, it could be an issue with the YFZ spindles. The shorter ratio could also cause this(I raced RC cars for a short bit). I might have to widen the front end, or go back to stock spindles, to fix it.
 

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such badass upgrades you've done to it nice work. great example of protecting your investment with how you know you ride. keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I might experiment with flipping the front wheels, with different valve stems.

A post I wrote, a couple nights ago, did not post. I have the longer tie rods installed. Also did some heat protection. The exhaust, with the header wrap, climbs to 500 degrees all the way back to the muffler. The fender and air box are getting to hot.

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Drilled the air box lid. The plastics were sucking in, when I blipped the throttle. Already have a pre-filter sleeve. I moved the emissions sticker, for the hell of it.
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Needed to be that much longer. These are Niche 519-KTR2214B. For a 2012-2018 Kawasaki Brute Force 300. All the Japanese atvs use the same male or female tie rods. Just have to find the right length. Though, a few have 12mm tie rod ends.

The air box on the warrior melted because the exhaust was wrapped. So, I'd like that to not happen again. That wrap is just the cheap stick on heat shield from Amazon. Still have like 7-8x18" left.

Back on it for tuning tomorrow. I'm taking it to a dyno later in the day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I can also confirm that 3M weather strip adhesive works great on K&N filter foams that seperate. I used mineral spirits to clean the foam, sqeezed it out, and gave it a solid 24 hours to evaporate. It's very adhered, currently.
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Anybody else with a K&N have to beat their cover into place? It's like the seal/foam is too thick. I had the same problem with the Warrior.
 

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Been a while since I dealt with the one machines K&N filter cover. They definitely are a chore to get on. Looking forward to the Dyno numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Well, I had it running. Doing some more tuning. Getting ready to head in to load it up, and it dies. No electronics, just dead. Wiggle wires, plugs, and it starts to turn over, and dead. Everything was dead. So I check the fuse on the power relay, and it turns on again. Jusg start to crank it, and its dead again.

Long story short, everything checks out except the power relay plug. The plugs snap clip is gone. It's quite loose fitting. If I can't get the plug, I'll swap it with the safety relay one, and just zip tie the safety plug on.

I think this might have been my issue with high rpm break-up. It sounded like it was too rich. But when I adjust the AFR and leak jet up(adding fuel), it runs stronger and stronger. Got close to a 50mph drift across the back yard.

Edit: already found the replacement plug and ordered it. I could probably pull it from a part-out atv, instead. I do have a 660 Raptor here.
 
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