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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
New plug came today. Got to it and it's all going again. I took the wire terminals out of the old plug, one at a time, and swapped to the new plug. No corrosion, just bent open terminals. I carefully pinched them back, re installed, and everything works. I worked till late, and don't want to drag it out to test it while it's getting dark out.

Not my mistake that caused this, but a lesson still exists. DO NOT force a plug loose if it's stuck. Figure out why and take it loose without jamming a screw driver to it. These quads have a few styles of connectors that snap together differently. If its dirt that is sticking it together, a small bit of wd40(or similar) will help loosen it. Just wipe the excess off with a rag first, or it gets a bit harder to hold/pull them apart. I've worked on many old harnesses, dating back to from the early 80's, and have never broken a plug(owned a bunch of old EFI Fords).

Side note. My frame must be bent. I bent the left front upper arm to match the right, and it still leans out a bit. I'm not going for perfection. I will most likely crash this quad, myself. It's close enough to run straight while riding. I'm aiming to beat, or get close to, my record of 67mph across the whoops. My truck was/is fun on the flats. Looks like I can do a day trip around Labor day, and the end of the year trip in October. Will be the 2nd year my dune truck didn't make it out since 2014. The old 87 warrior barely hit 53mph.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Tuning today. Even after hoping I started rich, it's lean. I'm nearly 3 turns out on the low speed/afr screw. I have turned the accelerator pump jet up a bunch and it still falls on its face, and sounds like lean pop while throttling open slower. Plug has some light peppering on the electrode(lean/hot).

Pilot is going up 2, and main is going up 2. It still pulls better than with the Warrior carb, which was idle or full throttle only.

I guess the cam, filter, exhaust, and mild porting are doing better than I thought. I never smell the exhaust, even though it runs the exhaust so hot. The warrior was tuned a bit rich, and always smelled. Been a great learning experience.

Wish I had a wide band O2 gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
After that tuning, I'm not guessing anymore. I'm building a cheap O2 sensor pipe attachment for the back. I have a new sensor for an old Ford(narrow band), and an old harness to chop the plug from. I'm using a 0-1v analog voltmeter, and another switch(for the O2 heater). If I can get decent readings, I can get it closer with this set-up.

I cannot hear the difference. The plug readings don't help me much, as I have not tuned many carbs(it's a really hot running engine). I should be able to get close with this meter, then confirm it on the dyno with a real wideband sensor.

To me, it sounds like lean pop but, the exhaust is full of black soot.

Got components on the way. The tube will be a close match to the diameter of the spark arrestor, will bolt onto the back of the HMF muffler, and have a small handle bar mounted box to give me readings.

My box of old Radio Shack components, unfortunately, has nothing I can use.

Thursday night, it should be on, and running.

I'm also working on mounting up some Tusk nerf bars from a Raptor 660. Just need to make a simple front mount. Everything else fits and lines up.
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I have the wiring mostly done for the O2 sensor. Just need the tailpipe piece made tomorrow, and it's done. Also need another in-line fuse for the O2 heater circuit.

I'd be happy if all works as it should. I will make marks on the volt meter for AFR. If I'm going to do this, I'm all in. I have to go for the best tune I can.
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The switch is for the heater circuit on the oxygen sensor. Could all be a waste of time. I willl know this coming weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The O2 sensor harness is complete, and powering up. By itself, it brings the O2 sensor to around 200+ degrees. If the weather forecast is wrong tomorrow(typically is), I will run it around and get preliminary readings.

If it does storm off and on, all day, I will do it Monday.
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The backplate on the muffler is an old steel belt idler, from a old Ford truck, trimmed down. It fit and was easy to drill and cut. I went with around 7", after the sensor, to avoid fresh air from mixing into the tailpipe. It will be a bit less restrictive than the spark arrestor, but thats fine. It means I can potentially tune it slightly rich after the arrestor is back on(better than lean).

Could still not work, and make all this effort a waste.
 

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That has been some really ingenious stuff you have going on there. Loving reading this as you progress and can’t wait to hear further results. Hopefully it goes as planned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
It's lean. Got it fully warmed up, and at full temp(still hitting over 300 degrees at the head, and 210-220 at the case), it's sitting at .4-.45 which is about 15:1. Low throttle cruising it hangs at .6-.65 that's 14:1. Full throttle stays at .6, about 14.5:1. I'm aiming for .9v 12.6:1.

The sensor stayed close to 600 degrees after idling for a few minutes, and stayed much higher running around. So we'll within operating temp. It was actually reading slightly richer until the engine warmed up completely.

Guess it is running lean. Probably explain the high operating temp. Back to my plan of jumping the pilot and main up 2 sizes each.

Edit: I did find a place selling a bosch wideband, and the reader(with some assembly required) for $95. Might be worth it. Sigma Lambda Controller Free 2
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Idle is 6.5v now(o2 is too close to exhaust exit to be acurate). Part throttle goes to 7.5, and full is 8-8.5v(13-12.8-1). I feel the main is probably close to spot on. It climbs to 8.5v+ as i hold the throttle into high rpm. I'm going to bump the pilot up another size. I should try for the dyno tomorrow. The wideband sensor can confirm how well my cheap sensor reads.

After the dyno run, I may have to up the jets even more. A 2nd dyno run will conclude, if that is the case.

It's cool to see how the whole set-up reacts. I have to do some hard pulls a few times, to get the exhaust temp up higher, then it really pulls fuel through. I'm sure the stupid hot exhaust temp helps it flow better.

I know I'm on the right track. It sounds "better". I hit 4th gear in my back yard now. And the engine is running nearly 20 degrees cooler.

The nerf bar mount is done and mounted. Raptor 660 nerf bars, from Tusk, seem to be identical. I was only missing the front mount.
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Again, as I am a plumber/HVAC tech by trade, I used a piece of 1" copper over 1" steel tube. It fit perfectly in the aluminum nerf bars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
175 main is spot on. 50 pilot is just lacking, but 52 is too much. Going to mess with that tomorrow. Pulls harder and harder. On the dyno later tomorrow.

Watched a turbo Razor put down a solid 174hp. Super clean curve and afr. Owner does tuning, for a living, at a manufacture(it's Michigan, but I won't say which company).

Fun
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Well, ended up needing the biggest main I have, 178 main with a 50 pilot. Might need more on the main. And may need to adjust the air jets. It's stupid rich at idle, but great everywhere else.

Developed a timing noise. It's loud. My fear was a rod bearing. Took cam cover off to find the chain a little loose. The new Melling timing chain looks clean. Took the tensioner off. It sucks

They updated the tensioner, at some point, because this noise is common on these engines.

'94 timing chain tensioner
Extended length 51mm
Spring length free 59mm

2007 timing chain tensioner
Extended length 56mm
Spring length free 55mm

Spring wire diameter and spacing is the same(.84mm x 2mm). So they made a tensioner that travels further, with slightly less tension. The further travel is probably just to ensure the shaft doesn't bind(it's longer, sets in the housing further).

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Upper is 2007 Raptor 350, lower is 1994 Warrior 350.

I'm just going to use the '94 spring(longer) in the 2007 tensioner(also longer travel). The factory '94 tensioner was installed, until now.

The friend with a dyno had other family things to do this evening. Plan is mid-day tomorrow.

I'm really happy how it's going. The O2 read-out stays around .85v now. It dips, sometimes, when I peg the throttle open. This engine is very thirsty. After a dyno run, I bet I need an even bigger main jet. I still get a lean pop near full rpm.

Edit: I did try going leaner on the main. It made the break-up at high rpm worse. This is why I went with the biggest I had. After real dyno read-outs, I bet I will need a 180 or 182 main.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
No dyno today. Trying again tomorrow.

The tensioner definitely made a difference, but I still heard alot of valvetrain noise. So it's back in the garage to check valve lash.

Exhaust is right where I set it at .14mm(.005 in)
Intake has gapped back open to .10mm(.004 in). I set the intake to factory .06mm(.003 in). I took a rod stethoscope and the noise was louder
coming from the intake rocker. Rocker seems solid, cam lobes still look like new.

It's possible it was never set right because I may have not had the timing marks lined up when I lashed the valves. What concerns me is why it's suddenly getting louder. I was hitting rev limiter, but never held it there. Noise is less when engine is warmed up. I'm re-lashing the valves and hoping a bearing isn't going bad. If it's quieter tomorrow after this, I know I'm good. Otherwise, it's getting torn down till I find the issue.

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
That wasn't it. Slightly quieter. All the noise is around the timing chain area. Chain is tight, no side to side chain movement, no squeals. Its just the sound of valvetrain chatter, but louder. I felt no roughness in the cam bearings.

Though, the oil looks like water with black specs in it. I feel that overheating the engine a few times may have cooked the Rotella T6 I put in. It stays much cooler now. After hard running, the head reaches 260-270 farenheight, and the engine base stays about 190. The oil cooler feed is around 200, and comes back 140-150. Before, I hit temperatures of 340-350 on the head, and 230+ at the case(followed by immediate cool down periods). Did I mention I have had very little carb tuning experience?

It got louder after a whole day of running it hard and tuning. Hopefully fresh oil will kill the sound.

Going with Supertech V-twin oil. It's supposed to be formulated better for air cooled engines, and still JASO certified. Going to work on an aluminum skid plate, while it's draining, tonight.

Edit: oil looked like mud coming out at first. No metallic flakes or chunks. It does smell like gasoline. Looks like I have a float issue in the carb. It started leaking some gas out the overflow tube, when shut off, the last couple days of tuning.
 

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The fuel leak is not a float issue either.
Floats don't move out of spec on their own.
The needle and seat wear out, and can no longer completely stop fuel from coming into the float bowl.
The bowl fills, the float rises, pushes the needle into the seat, but only slows the fuel flow down(instead of stopping it).
The bowl is full, the fuel has nowhere to go...except out of the overflow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I meant the needle seat when I said that. But the few times I seen it leak fuel, it was a steady stream out the overflow.

After all this, it's extremely noisy at the valves. The rockers have no play(besides the valve lash), and I'm now burning oil on startup. The rod stethoscope is still loudest at the valves. I'm leaning towards the valves and guides are messed up from overheating, burnt oil, and high rpms.

I'm going on the dyno. If it's getting louder after that, no dunes this coming weekend. Either way, I'm going to just rebuild another head and try slightly different port work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Head is messed up. My "hillbilly" afr didn't work out, either. It ran so rich, it maxed out the wideband. The head noise gets louder and louder. I'm going to downsize the jets back to when I started with the "afr" guage.

Hopefully the head is salvageable. I will buy another, if needed(or steal the original '07 raptor 350 head). Going with Kibble White valves and springs this time.

I really hope its nothing more than the rockers are garbage. They are cheaper to replace. When I originally did this motor, I took the best of 2. It will be torn down soon, to find out.

Now I'm aiming for the end of October trip. I also heard that Silver Lake dunes where just slammed this past weekend. You would be lucky to make a lap around. They just want to pump as many people as they can in(more money).

The old '87 head, I had here as extra, is damaged badly. I could not even pull the exhaust rocker shaft out. The piston slammed the head, which deformed the surface, and also bent the valves. I think it should be scrapped. I wish I bought the heads I seen for sale before. They were going for $35 each for a bit. Now it's near $100 for one just without a broken stud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I'm putting the '87 head in the freezer tonight. I could deck the head to remove the piston marks. The exhaust rocker is stuck to the rocker shaft. If freezing, then heating just the rocker doesn't work, I'll cut the exhaust rocker off and pull the shaft. I already heated it up to 350 farenheight and it just moved till the rocker hit. Will probably need to grind the rocker in-half.

The guides, and valve seats, are still in great shape. There is an exhaust stud that needs heli-coiled or a insert, as well. Not as bad of shape, as I initially made it out to be.
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
So freezing it, then heating the rocker, and quickly trying to slide hammer it didn't work. Barely moved 1/16". It's really scored onto the shaft. I started cutting it with a flexible dremel, but my batteries are dead. Plan is to cut as much of it as I can without cutting into the aluminum. After heating the rocker with a torch, it should release enough for the shaft to be removed.
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I did notice another curious thing. The tip of the exhaust rocker point was pitted/galled, too.
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I wonder if a bad tip, messed up like this, could damage a valve guide. It would be grabbing the tip of the stem, putting unwanted stress, horizontally on the valve. I don't remember checking these when I rebuilt the current head.

I also looked back through my purchases. I bought cheaper replacement valves for the current head. They could just be lower quality and have worn down quickly. The '94 springs were within the specs, for unsprung length, during the rebuild.

I think quality valves and springs, like yamaha or kibble white, should solve this issue. I can source Kibble White valves cheaper, or as cheap, as Yamaha ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Success! Cutting the rocker, with heat, worked. Stripped the rest of the head while I was at it.
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The gouge is from where I cut it and pulled through. The groove above that is where the rocker wore to it to make them stuck together.

Head will be cleaned, ported, and surfaced this week. I will also order new cam bearings, and chain guides, with the kibble white valves and springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Been busy with work. New head was hot soaked, and mildly brushed. Chased all the threaded holes.

Ordered new wiseco stainless vales, kibblewhite springs, yamaha chain guides, and quality japan/German bearings for the cam. Nearly $300, but worth it for a machine I want to keep for a long time.

Found out the 2007-up heads have a bigger ball bearing for the 2nd(inside) bearing on the back of the camshaft. 2006-older have a flat roller bearing. So the heads did actually change. The roller bearing I took out, still looks okay. Still changing it.

Should be able to do a mild port job on the head while I wait for parts. I'll pull the Raptor 350 back into the garage tomorrow to take the head off. Will find out the damage then. Maybe that inside flat roller bearing started to go. I would need a new camshaft, if that's the case.

If that happened, I might rebuild the 2007 head.

Gotta get this done so I can get it back on the dyno ASAP for tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Was going to list parts on ebay, to make room, and bring the 350 back into the garage tonight. But, power went out. So, under candles and flashlights, I'm just measuring out the head for porting. The intake looks perfect, without any restriction. I'll just barely blend that and clean up the edges. The exhaust port looks like it could use a little help, and more blending. I'll touch up my intake adapter on a mill, too. Parts start arriving tomorrow.
 
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