Do you have the repair manual?
07 Raptor 700 No Spark
So I've done a bunch of searching for info on my situation, but it's come to the point where I'd like to straight up ask some of the more experienced electrical fellas here on the forums.
So I bought a quad from an auction recently, and I bought it knowing the quad didn't run. Got it home, started going through the manual's checks for not getting any spark. It'll turn over, but not spark. Found out I was missing both the ECU & the rectifier. Ordered the parts, waited for them to arrive, and installed them yesterday. Still no spark, but now that I have an ECU I get a fault code 33 (ignition coil fault code). Checking the resistivity on the primary and secondary coil (as well as through the boot), I'm bang on the manual's specs. I checked and I get voltage to the positive on the ignition coil. I got readings between 0.4 & 1.6V to the coil depending on whether I'm cranking it over or not. How much V should the coil be receiving? I didn't check the voltage downstream of the coil as I wasn't sure if it would over-range my meter. What voltage does the coil put out to the plug?
I was also wondering where the grounds for the CU/ignition system are located? I'm wanting to check and make sure I have good grounds.
I'm thinking I have a coil problem, or from what I've read, possibly a stator issue? Unplugging the rectifier and cranking doesn't result in any spark, so I know it's not the common stator-short I've read about.
If I can provide any more info to help problem solve, let me know! Thanks in advance.
Edit: Forgot to mention I checked all fuses, they're fine. I didn't check the TPS or LAS, didn't know where to find them at...
So I bought a quad from an auction recently, and I bought it knowing the quad didn't run. Got it home, started going through the manual's checks for not getting any spark. It'll turn over, but not spark. Found out I was missing both the ECU & the rectifier. Ordered the parts, waited for them to arrive, and installed them yesterday. Still no spark, but now that I have an ECU I get a fault code 33 (ignition coil fault code). Checking the resistivity on the primary and secondary coil (as well as through the boot), I'm bang on the manual's specs. I checked and I get voltage to the positive on the ignition coil. I got readings between 0.4 & 1.6V to the coil depending on whether I'm cranking it over or not. How much V should the coil be receiving? I didn't check the voltage downstream of the coil as I wasn't sure if it would over-range my meter. What voltage does the coil put out to the plug?
I was also wondering where the grounds for the CU/ignition system are located? I'm wanting to check and make sure I have good grounds.
I'm thinking I have a coil problem, or from what I've read, possibly a stator issue? Unplugging the rectifier and cranking doesn't result in any spark, so I know it's not the common stator-short I've read about.
If I can provide any more info to help problem solve, let me know! Thanks in advance.
Edit: Forgot to mention I checked all fuses, they're fine. I didn't check the TPS or LAS, didn't know where to find them at...
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Yup, it's what I've been using to learn my way around the bike. 
Just to update, I've also changed the plug, and I was just out checking voltages on the coil - lost my inhibitions. I've got 12V on the orange power wire to the coil, and 12V at the spark plug boot. When I crank it, I have ~10.2V at the boot. Is this correct?
Just to update, I've also changed the plug, and I was just out checking voltages on the coil - lost my inhibitions.
I've got 12V on the orange power wire to the coil, and 12V at the spark plug boot. When I crank it, I have ~10.2V at the boot. Is this correct?
There should be a detail for that fault code in there! Sounds like you have a coil prob.! I have an extra coil if you need it!
How much shipped to Canada mate? If it's cheap enough I'll take it, it's an easy thing to try. I was planning on shopping around for one locally tomorrow. heh
Yes! I just looked it up and you have a faulty coil! I put the new dynatek coil in mine and it kicks ass!
Hmmmm.... not sure! But you can check the rates from washington 98607How much shipped to Canada mate? If it's cheap enough I'll take it, it's an easy thing to try. I was planning on shopping around for one locally tomorrow. heh
I have a copy of the service manual, and it tells me about the fault codes. But I am wanting to find out about the proper voltages so that I can either confirm a faulty coil, or faulty wiring to the coil. The manual doesn't speak to this...
Ok. I'm not sure what the voltage is supposed to be. But there is only two connection points with different sized connectors so i'm sure you have it wired right unless the connectors were removed.
I don't think it's wired incorrectly, but there could be a short or bad connection hiding somewhere, or maybe even an ECU problem, I don't know. I was just hoping someone could confirm whether my numbers were right or not.
I'm off to bed, fire me a PM with how much you want for the coil carpenter. I'll check back in the morning.
I'm off to bed, fire me a PM with how much you want for the coil carpenter. I'll check back in the morning.
Talked to a guy about a coil here locally, he said as long as the resistance through the coil is good, there should be no problem. So it's either wiring or ECU or something else.
I checked the CPS and got good resistance readings (240 Ohms or so) and none of the wires looked damaged.
I want to check the lean angle sensor, but don't know how? Am I supposed to add some jumper wires that I can read voltages off of while the key is on?
I checked the CPS and got good resistance readings (240 Ohms or so) and none of the wires looked damaged.
I want to check the lean angle sensor, but don't know how? Am I supposed to add some jumper wires that I can read voltages off of while the key is on?
Does the lean angle sensor kill your fuel pump if it's tripping? Cuz I can hear my fuel pump prime when I turn the key on, so I'm thinking the LAS is A-OK.
the lean angle sensor is under the rubber battery cover and is attached near the battery holder it has to mounting screws attached to it and should say "this end up". a easy way to check for this is if you cycle the quad off then on and try and start it before the fuel pump cycles and the fault code starts flashing if it starts and if it continues to run while your on the throttle and dies shortly after its the Lean angle sensor. but thats fault code 30 not 33
Does the lean angle sensor kill your fuel pump if it's tripping? Cuz I can hear my fuel pump prime when I turn the key on, so I'm thinking the LAS is A-OK.
The LAS will allow the pump to prime when you cycle the bike from off to on, but will not let you start it shortly after by killing the spark energy. I had this problem on my bike before. cycle the key from off and on and try to start it as soon as you turn the key to on
I tried that once last night, turned the key on and fired it right away, didn't get it to start, but I didn't pull the plug and ground it where I could see spark or not. Maybe I'll try that to confirm.
So the LAS will allow the priming, but cuts power to the coil then?
So the LAS will allow the priming, but cuts power to the coil then?
yes after the pump primes the ecu cuts the power to the coil shortly after if the bike is not running and you will get code 30 3 long slow flashes followed by a pause then it will repeat again
Hmm...well I don't get the code 30, I'm getting 33.
I was a bit confused on how to test the lean angle sensor. Any advice there?
I was a bit confused on how to test the lean angle sensor. Any advice there?
as long as you look at the lean angle sensor and it has the this end up facing up its fine. the lean angle sensor is what tells your ECU that the unit is upside down and it should stop it from running before damage ensues
where in alberta are you from
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