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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I've done a bunch of searching for info on my situation, but it's come to the point where I'd like to straight up ask some of the more experienced electrical fellas here on the forums.

So I bought a quad from an auction recently, and I bought it knowing the quad didn't run. Got it home, started going through the manual's checks for not getting any spark. It'll turn over, but not spark. Found out I was missing both the ECU & the rectifier. Ordered the parts, waited for them to arrive, and installed them yesterday. Still no spark, but now that I have an ECU I get a fault code 33 (ignition coil fault code). Checking the resistivity on the primary and secondary coil (as well as through the boot), I'm bang on the manual's specs. I checked and I get voltage to the positive on the ignition coil. I got readings between 0.4 & 1.6V to the coil depending on whether I'm cranking it over or not. How much V should the coil be receiving? I didn't check the voltage downstream of the coil as I wasn't sure if it would over-range my meter. What voltage does the coil put out to the plug?

I was also wondering where the grounds for the CU/ignition system are located? I'm wanting to check and make sure I have good grounds.

I'm thinking I have a coil problem, or from what I've read, possibly a stator issue? Unplugging the rectifier and cranking doesn't result in any spark, so I know it's not the common stator-short I've read about.

If I can provide any more info to help problem solve, let me know! Thanks in advance.

Edit: Forgot to mention I checked all fuses, they're fine. I didn't check the TPS or LAS, didn't know where to find them at...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yup, it's what I've been using to learn my way around the bike. :)

Just to update, I've also changed the plug, and I was just out checking voltages on the coil - lost my inhibitions. :p I've got 12V on the orange power wire to the coil, and 12V at the spark plug boot. When I crank it, I have ~10.2V at the boot. Is this correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How much shipped to Canada mate? If it's cheap enough I'll take it, it's an easy thing to try. I was planning on shopping around for one locally tomorrow. heh
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have a copy of the service manual, and it tells me about the fault codes. But I am wanting to find out about the proper voltages so that I can either confirm a faulty coil, or faulty wiring to the coil. The manual doesn't speak to this...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don't think it's wired incorrectly, but there could be a short or bad connection hiding somewhere, or maybe even an ECU problem, I don't know. I was just hoping someone could confirm whether my numbers were right or not.

I'm off to bed, fire me a PM with how much you want for the coil carpenter. I'll check back in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Talked to a guy about a coil here locally, he said as long as the resistance through the coil is good, there should be no problem. So it's either wiring or ECU or something else.

I checked the CPS and got good resistance readings (240 Ohms or so) and none of the wires looked damaged.

I want to check the lean angle sensor, but don't know how? Am I supposed to add some jumper wires that I can read voltages off of while the key is on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Does the lean angle sensor kill your fuel pump if it's tripping? Cuz I can hear my fuel pump prime when I turn the key on, so I'm thinking the LAS is A-OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I tried that once last night, turned the key on and fired it right away, didn't get it to start, but I didn't pull the plug and ground it where I could see spark or not. Maybe I'll try that to confirm.

So the LAS will allow the priming, but cuts power to the coil then?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
All are fine according the manual's specs except the lean angle sensor (don't know how to check it exactly) and possible hidden faults in the wiring. That's why earlier I mentioned some of the voltages I was getting, to ask if they made sense. 12V to the coil, and 12V to the plug? 10V when cranking?

Is the only ground the black wire that goes from the ECU to the negative battery post?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Is it normal to have 12V to (and through) the coil as soon as you turn they key on? Is it also normal to have 12V to (and through) the coil even with the orange lead disconnected? I though the orange lead was power to the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Well, I did basically the same thing just by pulling the plug out and grounding it on the block. No spark.

Changing tunes, which wire is the ground for my ECU?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Got two plugs, one old and one new, neither spark. I can try the screwdriver tomorrow.

Coil resistance readings are fine, so I'm trying to get some input on other symptoms, which is why I keep asking about the voltage readings and such that I'm getting, before jumping to the conclusion that the coil is bad. It's either a "wait while the part is shipped off ebay" or "expensive OEM part from the dealer" kind of situation for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Thanks, but I have a copy of the manual. It only tells me what the resistances of the ignition components should be, and those all check out fine. I'm now trying to check continuity of the wires to the components, which is sometimes easiest by testing for power.

So back to some of my earlier questions:

Does the ignition coil normally have 12V to (and through) it as soon as you turn the key on?

Does the ECU create spark by interrupting power to the coil (orange wire)?

Where is the ignition system's ground, besides the spark plug itself?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Well, I ordered up a coil off ebay. Now I wait...

I'd still be interested in answers if anyone can respond to the many queries I had in this thread. :p I have a bad feeling that replacing the coil will not solve my problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Thanks for the info White Rider, that's more along the lines of what I was thinking.

So the plug won't spark without a working stator? Even though the battery has good charge?

And can you elaborate on how to check signal from the CPS?
 
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