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07 Raptor 700 No Spark

32365 Views 47 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Drake l
So I've done a bunch of searching for info on my situation, but it's come to the point where I'd like to straight up ask some of the more experienced electrical fellas here on the forums.

So I bought a quad from an auction recently, and I bought it knowing the quad didn't run. Got it home, started going through the manual's checks for not getting any spark. It'll turn over, but not spark. Found out I was missing both the ECU & the rectifier. Ordered the parts, waited for them to arrive, and installed them yesterday. Still no spark, but now that I have an ECU I get a fault code 33 (ignition coil fault code). Checking the resistivity on the primary and secondary coil (as well as through the boot), I'm bang on the manual's specs. I checked and I get voltage to the positive on the ignition coil. I got readings between 0.4 & 1.6V to the coil depending on whether I'm cranking it over or not. How much V should the coil be receiving? I didn't check the voltage downstream of the coil as I wasn't sure if it would over-range my meter. What voltage does the coil put out to the plug?

I was also wondering where the grounds for the CU/ignition system are located? I'm wanting to check and make sure I have good grounds.

I'm thinking I have a coil problem, or from what I've read, possibly a stator issue? Unplugging the rectifier and cranking doesn't result in any spark, so I know it's not the common stator-short I've read about.

If I can provide any more info to help problem solve, let me know! Thanks in advance.

Edit: Forgot to mention I checked all fuses, they're fine. I didn't check the TPS or LAS, didn't know where to find them at...
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where in alberta are you from
Calgary. You don't happen to know of any good quad salvage places around do ya?

And can't the LAS be faulty? I'd like to test it to make sure.
ive never heard of a faulty LAS and i wouldn't know how to test it other than turning it upside down and see if you get a fault code 30...

No unfortunately i live in sherwood park just east of edmonton and dont even know any salvage places up here have you tried kijiji
Yeah I've been phoning around this afternoon. :)

You ever go out riding around Bruderheim?
all the time pretty much the only place around town that i ride alot cuz its close. trying to find time to go to brule for a weekend
So I checked my stator resistances, they were all 0.3 Ohms.

Any other ideas?
these things shuld all be checked
1. main and ignition fuses
2. battery
3. spark plug
4. ignition spark gap
5. spark plug cap resistance
6. ignition coil resistance
7. main switch
8. engine stop switch
9. crankshaft position sensor resistance
10.lean angle sensor
11.wiring connections (of the entire ignition
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All are fine according the manual's specs except the lean angle sensor (don't know how to check it exactly) and possible hidden faults in the wiring. That's why earlier I mentioned some of the voltages I was getting, to ask if they made sense. 12V to the coil, and 12V to the plug? 10V when cranking?

Is the only ground the black wire that goes from the ECU to the negative battery post?
Is it normal to have 12V to (and through) the coil as soon as you turn they key on? Is it also normal to have 12V to (and through) the coil even with the orange lead disconnected? I though the orange lead was power to the coil.
hmm you might have a faulty coil
Yep! Probably a faulty coil! Did you try grounding the plug with a screwdriver? If so was there a spark?
Yep! Probably a faulty coil! Did you try grounding the plug with a screwdriver? If so was there a spark?
Can you elaborate on that test?
Yeah you pull the plug boot off and stick a screwdriver in it. Place the screwdriver shaft approx 1/8 inch away from a grounding point. Turn the bike over and there should be a spark arcing over to the grounding point!
Well, I did basically the same thing just by pulling the plug out and grounding it on the block. No spark.

Changing tunes, which wire is the ground for my ECU?
yes but you could have a faulty plug as well which is why carpenter suggested using the screwdriver test because that would rule out the plug and definitely point towards a faulty coil
Got two plugs, one old and one new, neither spark. I can try the screwdriver tomorrow.

Coil resistance readings are fine, so I'm trying to get some input on other symptoms, which is why I keep asking about the voltage readings and such that I'm getting, before jumping to the conclusion that the coil is bad. It's either a "wait while the part is shipped off ebay" or "expensive OEM part from the dealer" kind of situation for me.
well i dont have my raptor manual on this pc but if you pm me your email addy i will email you the manual i have on my laptop which has all of the voltage/resistance numbers you will need for the starter system and ecu
Thanks, but I have a copy of the manual. It only tells me what the resistances of the ignition components should be, and those all check out fine. I'm now trying to check continuity of the wires to the components, which is sometimes easiest by testing for power.

So back to some of my earlier questions:

Does the ignition coil normally have 12V to (and through) it as soon as you turn the key on?

Does the ECU create spark by interrupting power to the coil (orange wire)?

Where is the ignition system's ground, besides the spark plug itself?

Well, I ordered up a coil off ebay. Now I wait...

I'd still be interested in answers if anyone can respond to the many queries I had in this thread. :p I have a bad feeling that replacing the coil will not solve my problem.
It could be a few things, but what comes to mind when I hear that is your flywheel,stator and CPS. These are both in the left hand side case and tell your spark plug when to spark. Either of these could be bad or your gap between the CPS and your flywheel could be too far and its not reading your flywheel at all. Also check your flywheel and take it off and make sure your keyway is fine. Im having a similar pproblem except my spark happens at weird times and it is causing my flywheel to spin off the end of my crank. Im still trying to chase it after a year and I am in the process of changing the coil and stator and CPS assembly. im hoping to have good luck this time.

Edit: I dont think theres anything wrong with your coil if it tests fine according to yamaha, we tested ours and compared it to a bike on the showroom floor at our local dealer and it tested fine, but i think you should check inside your left hand side case. And if you take the upper plug out of the side case you can check the gap between the CPS pick up and the flywheel if you roll the motor over and get a raised bar in line with the CPS.
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Thanks for the info White Rider, that's more along the lines of what I was thinking.

So the plug won't spark without a working stator? Even though the battery has good charge?

And can you elaborate on how to check signal from the CPS?
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