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Discussion Starter #1
My coolant temp light would turn on when I idled, but if I rode around it would go away. Today I took it out to work on full throttle takeoffs and wheelies. I finally decided to go past 1st gear and went all the way to 4th before breaking down for a turn. I came out of the turn into a hill. The second I landed my Raptor stopped moving and cut off. It attempts to crank but will no longer turn over. Im hoping its something simple but assuming the worst. Also, the overflow went into the coolant tank and is noticeably darker than when I started riding today. I was using everstone coolant from walmart and I was hearing backfiring ever since I mixed 87 & 93 gas. The battery is fine.
 

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Probly just knocked a wire loose. It it getting spark? Is it getting fuel?

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The lean sensor mite of triggered but that usually is fixed by turning the key off than back on.

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Discussion Starter #4
Im assuming its getting fuel. I was riding just fine the day before with the same gas. I tried reading a few more posts and they said try cranking in a high gear. When I did that it made a loud popping noise so I stopped trying. Im probably going to take it to a yamaha dealer in fear of messing up something major. Wish I could save the money tho. Lots of things are pointing towards the spark plug. I may ask for a tune up, but if thats not the issue then i just wasted money.

i forgot to mention there was a small amount of oil that I dont recall being on the engine block.
 

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Start simple. Replace the spark plug. How long did you let it idle before the temp light came on? After putting in a plug, if it does start, remove the radiator cap and watch to see if coolant is flowing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The temp light would come on less than 5 mins of idling, but once in motion it would go off. And 10-4. I’ll definitely start with the spark plug first. I cant see how it is a major issue when It was riding perfectly until it cut off. I’ll try to find one tomorrow. Hopefully a yamaha dealer will have one instead of ordering.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Welp, is official. I’m going to need a top end rebuild. The only thing in hoping for us a decent cylinder. If i can keep the cylinder then it’ll only cost about $500. If i need a new cylinder it’ll be closer to $900.
 

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Are you doing the work or is a shop doing it?
If you're keeping the quad, I would recommend a CP 11:1 piston. It's pump gas safe and will run more efficiently.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Not quite sure if I want to do the work simply because I want to assure its done right. The yamaha dealer told me to bring the cylinder to them first and then we’d go from there before ordering anything.
 

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Where are you located?

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Not quite sure if I want to do the work simply because I want to assure its done right. The yamaha dealer told me to bring the cylinder to them first and then we’d go from there before ordering anything.
The Yamaha stealership may not do as good as you might think, and cost lots more... It's not a problem to do it yourself with our help. We've rebuilt motors from as far away from the US to the UK. If the cylinder is good, it just needs a diamond honing. If its bad, don't buy a new one, send the old one to Mellinimun Enterprises to be recoated for a few hundred.
Get a digital manual from Morphrider, read how and then we can help from there.
You'll need basic metric hand tools and a torque wrench.
Always use a factory head gasket, about $35. Base gasket is about $15, timing chain $25, CP piston $225 (?), cylinder hone about $25. Cylinder recoating is around $300.
 

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There is a couple of very good you tube videos I watched before doing mine. It’s easier than you think really. If a dealership can do it, so can you. PM me a valid email for a pdf version, even if it’s just to do an oil change, valves. You need to know torque settings.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
@morphrider I tried sending my email but the site gave me errors. @DEZPERADO after speaking with a performance shop by my house, they’re play honing the cylinder as long as there aren’t any scratches. I’ve found a few videos and I have a neighbor who works on motorcycles so I’m hoping we can figure it out. My raptor is in the shop right now. I took it to the actual shop where i get my parts, and where i have familiar faces that i trust. They’re going to charge $99 for a full diagnosis including taking it apart. It’ll also go towards a repair if I choose to keep it there. If not theyll give me an actual sheet of what I need and part numbers instead of insisting on a full rebuild like the last dealer just from hearing it crank (I only went to the unfamiliar dealer because they were the only yamaha dealer open on Monday). If its reasonable, I’m going to pay them to fix it. If it does need a full rebuild then I’m definitely doing it myself to save labor. I should hear back later today or tomorrow morning after dropping it off yesterday. It’s usually a 24 hour turnaround, but since they’re actually going to pull the valve cover to be more detailed it may be closer to 48.
 

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Consider it's almost 14
A full rebuild will cost more, but keep you running for many years(if done right and maintained).
Vs fixing the minimum(piston and sleeve), which saves money now, but will need done again with a crank, rod, and valve train rebuild.
Which is why the dealer told you full rebuild, as they don't want to put on a bandaid and have it back in the shop again sooner than later.
 

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If a shop takes it apart, you lose the knowledge of how it goes back together. You can pull it apart in the frame, take them the head, piston and cylinder for inspection. Measure the crank yourself. Then we can go from there.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Terrible news guys.... I need a rebuild from the crank shaft on up. Ill definitely have to do it myself. No chance I can pay for a complete rebuild smh.
 

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Don't buy a Hot Rod crank!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
How much do you think this is going to cost if I get the parts and do it myself? I bought the Raptor for $2,800. Im trying to fix it and still be under $4,000. They go for around that price in working condition. That way I wont be out of too much money or upside down if you will. And have spent way more than what its worth. Do you think thats possible?
 

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What's wrong with the crank. Bad bearing or wrist pin scouring?
 
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