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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I have a 01 Raptor 660. This machine so far has been an "oddity" I would describe it. A little background. Bought it from a friend knowing it needed some love. Bought new 12v battery. No load tested at 12.9. Installed in quad,road quad,stalled quad twice. The 2nd and last stall,quad DEAD. NO POWER. Come home,wiggled some grounds and switches simultaneously pushing START..DEAD. Tested 3 phase Stator..Pick up coil in spec, Rotor Rotational Direction Coil,out of spec, 1 winding on Stator,out of spec. I consulted forum and manual. I patiently trace wires in Ignition/Start circuit I noticed Red Wire unplugged from CDI. Turns out wire is to Rotor Rotational Direction Coil. Through research I discovered this wire is often cut in an attempt to bypass a Damaged Stator. During this time I attempt to Maintain NEW 12V battery. Once my tender indicated fully charged, I hooked it up..Quad DEAD. From this time now I spent over 15 hours obsessed with issue..Had friends experienced with quads/bikes check it out. I stubbornly refused to accept the idea that the battery was trash. Friends I think the battery was trash. I was convinced because battery still tested 12.9 and ran quad out of box first ride there was NO WAY it was bad. You couldn't even start quad with a screw driver across Solinoid. Then we attempted to plain out cross battery terminals..Nothing..No spark. Okay sorry that was more background than I intended. New (Used) OEM Stator arrived today. Tested resistance with a multimeter. Results similar to current Stator coil. Pick up could good. R.R.D.C tested 000.2 Bad? Manual says yes. Stator all 3 combinations, 000.6. Manual says bad..Again..Idk. Below photos if my readings with Clymer manual specs. Ideas? Question 2. Straight forward. What is purpose of 1 way bearing for 2001 Raptor 660r?
 

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Master of the Electron
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DON'T change your stator out yet!!!

You've done a great job on your homework - so no offense, but you must understand your test equipment before you can trust tests made with it.

A standard multi-meter (the kind you would have) does not accurately measure resistance below a few Ohms. Just touch the probes together and you'll likely see at least 0.2 Ohms... sure can't measure 0.06 Ohms with that. A meter capable of measuring hundredths of an Ohm will cost several thousand dollars.

But you can use your meter, instead, to tell you that the coil is probably okay (close to what is spec'd - within a few Ohms for the low values and within 10% for the high values) and that it is not open - or near infinite resistance. You can also use it to determine if one coil is shorted to another (all should have infinite resistance between them when unplugged from the harness).

Also be aware they if you hold the probes tips with your fingers while measuring you will see around 100k Ohms from your body, perhaps affecting the actual measurement you're trying to make. Don't touch the probe's tips while measuring.

Bottom line, you didn't need a stator, at least not due to your measurements - the red wire was removed (most likely) as you described. I've had my red wire disconnected for about 10 years now (to eliminate the internal stator short that prevents spark) with no ill effects.

NOW - the only battery measurement that matters is its voltage WHILE you are pressing the start button... If you would have seen IT go to zero Volts when pressing this would tell you immediately that the battery is bad.

Put a good, well charged battery in it (or just jumper to your car for testing) and figure out what issues you NOW have - get back to us with THEM and we'll get you through this... we've been there, done that for most everything you could possibly find.

The starter one-way bearing (clutch) connects the starter motor to the flywheel/crankshaft during starting, but allows the flywheel to freewheel from the starter when the engine is running - if the starter motor is turning but it is not making the engine turn with it, then the one-way has failed.

Good luck and welcome to the forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't use the meter enough to be completely comfortable with it. But I know it's "Self Ranging" and I know NOT to touch the probes with my hands. The readings on attached to the original post are exactly what I got. I tested it multiple times and had a friend do so. I've heard tell that you don't need it (The Stator) But I would like to use the lights etc and to have the machine run at 100% and use all it's functions. I guess there is somethings I just can't rap my head around.
 

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Master of the Electron
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And you tested it correctly - the meter itself is not capable of giving you the results that Edmunds say are passing - if you were measuring a coil with 0.06 Ohms resistance, the meter could tell you anything from 0.2 to 2.0 - it just isn't accurate at those low resistances. So as long as the measurement is within a couple of Ohms of spec for the low measurement, it has passed.

The red wire is not necessary - it is part of a coil that was used on a previous motorcycle version of the engine - used to prevent a backfire while kick starting from causing the engine to run backwards. It is to the Raptor what your appendix is to you - still there for no reason, can cause problems if it fails but is completely useless and causes no issues when removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, thanks. Like a idiot, I made another post. I got the bike back together. And yes, Stator is good. I put a YTX20H-BS (Grizzly 600) battery in it. When you press Start. You can sometimes hear a load clank from Starter 1 way bearing area. Occasionally it will roll over, but won't Start. I took out plug and it rolls over easy. During Stator replacement, I adjusted the Valves..(Super Tight!). As I said, Will Roll over with plug unscrewed. With plug inserted, It sounds as if it is struggling to roll. I appear to have spark, but it's yellowish, not fat and blue. The Stator is a Brand New Rick's Electric Hot shot Stator. I inserted the read wire back into CDI. Occasionally, when I turn key on, it won't do anything, then I Switch to engine Stop,Key off, then Arm the machine and won't do shit. I'm at a loss and I'm 400$ into this thing,not including the 1600 I'm out for this pos. Help is much appreciated.
 

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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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Ok, thanks. Like a idiot, I made another post. I got the bike back together. And yes, Stator is good. I put a YTX20H-BS (Grizzly 600) battery in it. When you press Start. You can sometimes hear a load clank from Starter 1 way bearing area. Occasionally it will roll over, but won't Start. I took out plug and it rolls over easy. During Stator replacement, I adjusted the Valves..(Super Tight!). As I said, Will Roll over with plug unscrewed. With plug inserted, It sounds as if it is struggling to roll. I appear to have spark, but it's yellowish, not fat and blue. The Stator is a Brand New Rick's Electric Hot shot Stator. I inserted the read wire back into CDI. Occasionally, when I turn key on, it won't do anything, then I Switch to engine Stop,Key off, then Arm the machine and won't do shit. I'm at a loss and I'm 400$ into this thing,not including the 1600 I'm out for this pos. Help is much appreciated.
Check your battery for at least 13.5 volts.
 

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Master of the Electron
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At least 11 under starting load... also check voltage at starter while starting - not much less.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for the reply. Well, I didn't make it that far. I discovered the 1 way bearing was gone. While hand cranking to check valve lash AGAIN. I noticed a horrible noise and noticable friction. Turns out,the starter was basically engaged all the time. You could also move crank both directions, it should ONLY move counterclockwise. And boy, are well built 1s EXPENSIVE!
 
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