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It definately needs new valve seats(and guides), and the head resurfaced.
But, it's hard to say from the picture if it is or is not repairable. It will depend on how much material needs to be removed before the surface is flat again, without going too deep and cutting into the edge of the combustion chamber.
Do you have a decent machine shop that you can take it to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
@Sixpack577 I am so new at this that I am unsure where I can find a shop. I want to do it at a local shop that way I can skimp on shipping and take both the head and cylinder at the same time.
 

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@Sixpack577 I am so new at this that I am unsure where I can find a shop. I want to do it at a local shop that way I can skimp on shipping and take both the head and cylinder at the same time.
If you have nowhere in mind, I would not be concerned about shipping, if you can find a reputable shop familiar with those engines to do it.
Fortunately, a competant auto machine shop can resurface the head and cylinder and do a valve job...competant being the hard to find part.
 

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I had aperaceparts.com do my YZ250F head a while back and was really happy with the customer service from them I do believe I was talking to Jeff at the time. Maybe contact them and ask what they can do to help.

 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
I have been reaching out to the contacts. I appreciate it guys. I’m still moving fwd with assembly. Check it out , clutch plates are in oil.
 

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I have been reaching out to the contacts. I appreciate it guys. I’m still moving fwd with assembly. Check it out , clutch plates are in oil.
Looks good.
Make sure the friction plates are spread out too, because if they are stacked, little to no oil will get to the gripping surface.
 

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Clutch tool makes it easy, but you can probably hold it with a strap.
As for cutting teerh on the speed limiter wheel, no, it's not needed, but you're right there and it adds a few more mph to the top end.
 

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This wheel/gear, cut all but 4 teeth off with a grinder, leave the teeth evenly spaced(12, 3, 6, and 9 clock positions), but even leaving just one tooth works.
That wheel has a sensor above it counting the teeth vs rpms, so in 5th gear, high rpm, the ecu pulls timing and restricts the top speed.
So, with teeth gone, the sensor isn't counting as many teeth at the same rpm, and the ecu never pulls timing at high rpm, because according to the count, you never got fast enough, but in reality...you can now go faster.
It's free speed.
Screenshot_20210420-131636_Gallery.jpg
 

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Does that work the same on 700s?

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
Well I did as instructed all went well !! @Sixpack577 i was unable to tighten the bolt using the straps so I had to order a clutch holder. I kept going and now I’m working on the left side .
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
@Sixpack577 i am at a total stand still now . I got a call back from advanced machining they told me 130 to hone, bore, and deck the cylinder not bad. To resurface the head 50 bucks. Not a bad deal but it will be about 5 weeks to get to my parts . I am trying to find options in DFW. I am going to clean off the bottom of the frame has a ton of oil, paint the exhaust to high heat black. Other than that I’m just waiting now
 

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That is a fair price from them for sure. You are making good progress, great job!
 
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