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Discussion Starter #1
1st thing 1st, Thanks you in advance,... but I have a 2002 Raptor 660 that I just purchased. And the guy said he (dirt track) raced it and after that it set in a barn for 3yrs. Could be true, everything metal was rusted over,(chain, sprockets, cables, shifter foot lever, etc) the seat had sum grassy lookin crap growing on it. So it looks the part. As for the quad, it looks good the motor was clean,, no old oil anywhere and it has an oversized water pump(that says something) and he claims to have stage 3 mods..But I don't know, how can I tell if its stock or upgraded?
  1. He stats his uncle built it for racing. It had lone star on the plastics. Not a sticker it was in the paint job. But to my problem, when I got there he said he changed the oil ( so no old oil was used) it starts right up but he had the idle kind of high but i drove it down the street, i had to force it to keep it alive.. it ran like a cat with its tail on fire.. but with the idle right, as soon as you shift it it trys to bog down and die. So it seem to be a carb issue. He said he bought brand new zoom carbs for it and they need to be adjusted. But I don't know how to go about adjusting them if I don't know what mods it has. Any help or info or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well the previous owner just got back to me and this is what he stats my 2002 Raptor 660 has:
Stage 3 hot cams, 102mm big bore kit and piston, and a niche performance head. The lower end is all wrench rabbit parts.. so with that said, Does anyone have an idea what jetting i should be using???
 

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I would start by cleaning the carburetors.
Assuming it ran correctly before being parked, nothing should need changed or adjusted.
3 year old gas in carbs will really gum and clog things up.
 

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Or, is he saying he put the carbs on, they weren't set correctly, then he just parked it?
I am not familiar with Zoom carburetors.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No he said it set for 3yrs in a barn, he pulled it out and put a new set of zoom carbs so with them being new, cleaning shouldn't be necessary, but they are not adjusted properly for the mods. Im trying to figure out how to adjust them right.. Can you give me somewhere to start
 

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If they were stock I'de say #25 pilots, 4th needle clip, and up 2-3 main sizes, and to search for the clear tube method for the proper way to set float heights.
The right side main is also one size larger than the left, no matter what.
A Dynojet kit is ideal, as you get several mains, as well as needles with a better tip taper that you cannot buy seperately.
But, all that may go out the window with Zoom brand carburetors, because I'm not familiar with them.
And " if" that's a cheap China brand, those are notorious for quality and poor running issues that in most cases can't be resolved.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah I don't know s**t about zoom carbs. It looks like they are a knockoff miniki brand. But yes I will be buying a Dynojet kit for sure. But if I decided to replace these carbs, what carbs should I buy? Without spending too much $$. Or should I look for a stock/factory carb
 

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Try to find a set of oem carbs, and rebuild those.
Given the cost of the jet kit, and that you may end up chasing your tail trying to get the Zooms to work right.
 

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I think the stage2 comes with the #25 pilots, and stage one has the stock size 22.5 pilots, but you'll have to email Dynojet and ask.
It's been a few years and I can't remember, sorry.
 

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Master of the Electron
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I'd ask him for the original carbs... they're worthless to him.
 

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I'd try the Zoom carbs with the DJ jets - one of the issues with the chinese knock offs is wrong jet sizes... so with the DJ jets in there you've solved one of the primary probs.

Is your airbox open? If so, then run DJ 146 main in the left carb, 148 in right, DJ needles 1 notch rich of center and 25 pilots with screws about 2 turn out. This will get you close! If it doesn't run close to decent with these numbers then there are other carb issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you QuadManiac very much for the help. So are their different stages of Dynojet kits? And which one should I got for ? The guy said its bored to a 686cc 102mm stage 3 hotcams .. and for what I've read , I think a stage 2 hotcams is better fitted for me. (I do alot of trail riding and open streets ridin .. ditch ridin /muddin I'm not really drag racing. We run em, all the time, but zero competition racing.) But since I do alot of different riding, I prefer to keep Airbox lid on.. so with that said, would you recommend a Different jet setup???
 

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Master of the Electron
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Which ever one comes with the sizes/parts I specified... If I recall, stage 2, but you verify.

I'd run lid off or heavily holed. Your mods will need more air than closed will comfortably supply. Or get the K&N lid - it filters but acts like open.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Good deal, I already ordered the Stage 2 Dynojets and yes I have a K&N air filter so l'll look into the k&n air box cover .
Gratitude
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Deamm it mann, $100 just for a lid. I'll get it but I hope its necessary... I just want my Rappy to feel better
 

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Deamm it mann, $100 just for a lid. I'll get it but I hope its necessary... I just want my Rappy to feel better
Why do you need a lid at all? Most people just throw the lid in the trash and enjoy the extra power

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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You can also get a pre-filter... much cheaper than that $100 lid and serves the same purpose

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