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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
There is a mystery as to how, with run/stop in run, 12V can magically appear on Blue/black and Yellow/black when plugged into solenoid yet BOTH sides of theconnection of BOTH signals have 0 when unplugged... This tells me just about without a doubt that either blue/black or yelow/black is shorted somehow/somewhere to red/black or another circuit connected to red/black... this is not correct - again, up near the switch cluster is where they both (Blue/blk and red/blk) reside.

Unplug battery, set key on, run/stop switch to run, then measure on unplugged solenoid connector the resistance from red wire to blue/black AND red to Yellow/black... this should tell us which wire is shorted. Then we can pull some tricks to narrow down where.
i get no reading from blue/black to red or From yellow/black to red on the solenoid clip. or between Yellow/Black and Blue/Black. I noticed the red wire insulation was a little worn and the Y/B had a pinch kinda in the clip so I didn’t think it was actually an issue but I pulled out the pins, cut the wires back a bit and replaced all 3 of them. To no effect, still 0volts on either side when disconnected but 12 on everything when connected… how?

I also checked for continuity on the pins ON the solenoid while I was there… nothing between red and Y/B or Blue/black. But noticed 3.8 ohm between the Y/B blue/black pins there… of course with no power to the solenoid still.
 

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Master of the Electron
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What if you, with connector unplugged, set meter to 2000 or higher Ohms and remeasure above?

BTW, that 3.8 Ohms is lkely the resistance of the solenoid coil - so when plugged in, that measurement is expected.

For the heck of it, pull the fuse and see, with connector plugged in, if 12V on y/bk and bl/bk goes away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
What if you, with connector unplugged, set meter to 2000 or higher Ohms and remeasure above?

BTW, that 3.8 Ohms is lkely the resistance of the solenoid coil - so when plugged in, that measurement is expected.

For the heck of it, pull the fuse and see, with connector plugged in, if 12V on y/bk and bl/bk goes away.
I opened the switch cluster on the bars, no noticeable short, wires and connections look good. It was pretty dusty/sandy so I pulled it all apart, cleaned everything and reassembled. To no change.

checking conductivity on 2000 setting and above I still get no reading between red to either Y/B or L/B, both on the connector and solenoid. Y/B to L/B on the solenoid now shows 004.

removing the fuse on the positive side of the connected solenoid all 3 read 0 volts. Removing fuse on other side of solenoid all 3 still read 12 when connected to solenoid

EDIT: to add continuity to ground on connector no reading L/B or Y/B and 19.2 on red (reads 021 on 2000ohm setting)

no reading ON solenoid pins
 

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Master of the Electron
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Only one fuse is active - other is a spare.
 

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Master of the Electron
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WHERE is that 12V on y/bk and bl/bk ooming from? Since they share the solenoid coil when plugged in then 12V applied to either will show up on both... BUT neither is SUPPOSED to have 12V if not plugged into the CDI... y/bk is supposed to get 12V from the CDI. Bl/bk is supposed to short to ground through the start button switch when pressed, but that's it! WHERE IS IT COMING FROM? Perhaps there is a short in the connector body of the solenoid, but you don't see 12V there, except for where the red wire connects - it's SUPPOSED to be there, it feeds 12V to the rest of the quad. SO, WHERE?

SO, one of them is getting it from a short somewhere else. And that short should show up between red and one of those wires when key is ON and run/stop is RUN...
 
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