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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

New to the forum. My son's 2005 Raptor 80 is idling with no problems with the choke open. As I begin to close the choke after warming it up, it eventually stalls. It will not maintain an idle with the choke closed; Only with it open. Any thoughts here? Do I need to get the carb cleaned professionally, or can this be done by myself? I like to think I am pretty saavy on mechanical stuff, but really do not know where to begin.

Thanks for the help.
 

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I'm confused about the state of the choke. it should be closed (lever moved up towards the gas tank) to start. after a few minutes of running move the lever back down to open the choke and run. if you turn the choke on when its warmed up it will run rough and stall (running rich). gasoline does not atomize as readily when cold as warm so you have to make the mixture richer when first starting (choke on). after the machine is warm the fuel will atomize correctly. if it idles rough, when its warm, with the choke open (off) and you start to apply the choke (close) and it starts to idle smoother then you probably have an air leak or the idle mixture is not set correctly.

on using the choke .. I use to tell my son to turn the choke on when starting the machine for the first time and ride with it on until the machine started to run rough and stall at idle and then to turn it off.

the carb. is relatively simple and can easily be cleaned by you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. I may have reversed my open and closed in my original message. I looked in my manual and the choke is "on" if it is pushed back towards the front wheel...this is how I have always told my son to start it (cold or warm) just to get used to it. Then as the idling becomes more "rough" when it warms up, we move it to the "off" position or back towards the seat (away from the front wheel). It's when the choke is off that it will not idle. I'm pretty sure I am using the choke correctly, which makes me think it is the carb or something to do with the mixture. I mean it starts no problem with the choke in the "on" position and idles perfectly - does all of the "right" things in that it gets rough when it is warmer. When I move the choke to the "off" position as diagramed in the manual, it dies. Not even a sputter.

thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
good tip - I normally just turn off the gas without letting it die. Seems like we shouldn't have to worry about it like that but if it works, I'll try anything to save the $$. Air fuel screw - I'll do some searches to find out where that is and see if slight adjustments make any difference. If not, I fear I'll spend a little $ to get the carb checked out. I have no way of knowing how to get it out and would hate to screw it up more...

thanks for the replies.
 

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Believe it or not, the valves need adjusted.
My son had an '03 and I went crazy trying to figure the same thing out.
I set the vlave lash and it would run like a champ

Give it a try and see if it works for yours.

BTW: The carb is very easy to remove. 2 bolts on the neck that goes to the cylinder head and a ring clamp on the boot that goes to the air box. Not much risk in removing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Valve lash? Where would I find that. How is it adjusted? I took a closer look at the carb a few monutes ago and realized two bolts and a clamp are pretty much holding it on. Came in and read your message...and that was that.
Sorry for what may be bonehead questions, but learning as I go here :)

Thanks so much.
 

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Not bonehead questions, got to figure it out somehow. I've been there.

First off I may need to back up a little, you might just need to adjust the idle screw on the side of the carb.

The valve lash is the amount of freeplay on the intake and exhaust valve. My sons would need to be adjusted from time to time. The amount of lash it should have is on a sticker under the seat. On the left side of the motor there is an inspection plate that comes off and exposes the timing chain. There are marks on it that you line up then check the amount of lash by removing the covers on the intake and exhaust valves (one on top of the head and one on the bottom - they look like a big cap nut) Use a feeler gauge to check the lash and determine if they need adjusted.
I no longer have his, it was sold and upgraded or I would put some pictures to the story.
 

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Boy and I glad I discovered this forum!!

I have the same exact issue with a Raptor 50. I pulled and cleaned the carb twice - soaking both jets overnight and really cleaning them out. I also cleaned as best I could the rest of the carb and it DID have a lot of varnishing / green slime. I removed most of it.

This machine will run all day with the choke fully on, once the choke is off it immediatley dies. You can rev the machine and actually drive it all day with full choke.

I replaced the gas, cleaned the fuel screen cleaned the air filter, etc. to no avail.

I will investigate the valve solution discussed here on the 50 and see if that helps.

Thanks!

Mike
 

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The 50 carb has very tiny holes in the jets. I stripped some wire to run through the all the holes in the carb and jets. It dosent take much at all to clog the carb. I havent had a bit of trouble since I started emptying the carb before storage.
 

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I just looked over my son's 2006 50 and I can not find this inspection plate you are referring to. I did find the sticker that list the acceptable amount of lash but no plate. Is it shown in the users manual?

also you refer to an idle screw is that the screw that is just below the choke lever?

thanks for any info.

Brian
 
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