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This build will produce...

  • 60-70HP

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  • 80-90HP

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  • 90-100HP😎

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  • Crank or Cyl will fail

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  • Just do big bore on OEM crank

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  • Just do big bore OEM crank and +2mm head

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2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi guys, I know this has probably been discussed here a million times but I’m having difficulty finding definitive information on recent durability with components (Hotrods crank) and a correct/complete setup for a stroker kit, so here goes.

I plan on doing a 780cc Big bore stroker kit to my 2008 700R, here is the component list so far, let me know if I missed anything or you have a better suggestion.

The bike is completely standard right now and I am going for a reliable yet powerful street bike.

- 105.5mm Cylinder, I am unaware of the brand as of yet (waiting on confirmation) however I have heard that Cylinder works is a sleeved cyl and to avoid it. There is a good chance it could be an Athena cyl but are they any good? Or should I leave the cyl and bore and Nikasil plate my current OEM one?

  • 11.0 : 1 CP Carrillo piston
  • Hi temp piston rings
  • DLC Chrome Wristpin
  • Circlip kit
  • Hotrods +5mm Stroker crank with rod, I have heard mixed reviews on these cranks, some have run many hours with no issues and some have ran 2 hours and had problems. My question is, is this down to incorrect installation or is it something to do with it reaching its capability when running higher HP’s? And should I just have my current crank sent off for the modding/welding instead?
  • HD crank bearings
  • Stage 3 Hotcam
  • MAXLOCK HD cyl to case studs and ARP 12 point stud nuts and washers
  • KIBBLEWHITE HD valve springs
  • Complete gasket kit, however if I go ahead I will be using a SCE Copper head gasket as I have heard the cometic head gaskets are garbage.
  • complete seal kit
  • Cam chain, however will I be ok running the stock tensioner?
  • HD clutch kit inc fibres, steels, springs. I will be doing the full fibre mod too.
-Water pump seal and bearing

Extras I will be including:

  • The remaining bearings to make a full set : counter balance, transmission, shift cam, camshaft and seals.
  • Hinson billet clutch basket
  • Fuel customs intake
  • TB and twin exhaust
  • +2mm valves and ported & polished head, is this necessary? If not is it worth doing anyway?
Now I live in UK at about 200ft above sea level and will be running Vpower 99ron pump fuel with this kit, what kind of figures should I expect if I build it and also anybody know what TB I should use?

Sorry for the long and probably re asked questions but I could really do with your guys’ advice, what are your thoughts?



I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
11,733 Posts
I would not bore and re-plate the factory cylinder, they tend to overheat.

The HR stroker cranks seam to be hit or miss on getting a good one.

A Stage 3 cam is about max for stock valvetrain, but there are better choices for more power that require stronger springs and rocker clearancing.

SCE gaskets can sometimes be hard to get, you might order 2.

A +3 bored TB and stock injector should be good to about 75- 80HP

A "qualified" porter can get a lot of power from a 700 head. There are a number of them on this side of the pond, but I recommend Cuervo Racing. It might benefit you to send your head to be done.

What year is your Raptor?

A few other suggestions;

DONT use a Tusk clutch kit, they don't handle the torque.

Have the head checked for warpage, a common problem.

On any crank, check rod side clearance, then true, and weld the pin.

Use a crank bearing support plate.

Do the Cuervo "oil mod".
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Reactions: Legsman222

Premium Member
3,217 Posts
The hotrods quality issues are far beyond being related to proper installation. The people who specialize in building raptor 700s won’t bother selling them anymore if that tells you anything.
When it comes to the cam and valve train, that’s where you need to make a decision based on budget and expectations. If youde be happy with around 70hp, the stock head stock valves and hotcam 3 are great; this combination does not require new valve springs or rocker clearancing.
If you want 80hp+ or even 90hp+ you will need to put money into the head including larger valves, custom cam, springs, and porting.
You’re on the right track with everything else.
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