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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys,
So I didn't end up changing any sprockets on my 700 but instead, now I am looking to the idea of building more power on my Raptor. To remind you I have a dual exhaust set up and a tuner currently. My friend is building a 4 mil Banshee, and the other is building a YFZ478..... I need to keep up with all the progress so now it's my turn. What's the best way of building some good power, I was looking into maybe turbocharging? Let me know your thoughts !!


EDIT: I have decided I am gonna go towards doing a big bore build instead. They seem reliable right and can make good power? Anyone know where I can find a good deal/reliable head?

EDIT PT 2: Is the 727 the best way to go? I assume I would need a new cam as well what stage would be best?
 

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Hi guys,
So I didn't end up changing any sprockets on my 700 but instead, now I am looking to the idea of building more power on my Raptor. To remind you I have a dual exhaust set up and a tuner currently. My friend is building a 4 mil Banshee, and the other is building a YFZ478..... I need to keep up with all the progress so now it's my turn. What's the best way of building some good power, I was looking into maybe turbocharging? Let me know your thoughts !!


EDIT: I have decided I am gonna go towards doing a big bore build instead. They seem reliable right and can make good power? Anyone know where I can find a good deal/reliable head?

EDIT PT 2: Is the 727 the best way to go? I assume I would need a new cam as well what stage would be best?
The big question is what kind of riding do you do and where? Street, track, sand, dirt or ?? And, what kind of total horsepower do you want?

A turbo is good for top end power and will cost about the same as N/A to build. You'll need a turbo cam and a $125 SCE head gasket and $150 head studs, maybe a "O" ring cylinder. Be sure NOT to get a oil-less turbo.

Big bores aren't very reliable unless you spend extra money on a GOOD cylinder, $125 SCE head gasket, $150 stud kit and decking the head so it's flat.

A 105.5 big bore motor is 734cc. A 5mm stroker motor is 727cc.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The big question is what kind of riding do you do and where? Street, track, sand, dirt or ?? And, what kind of total horsepower do you want?

A turbo is good for top end power and will cost about the same as N/A to build. You'll need a turbo cam and a $125 SCE head gasket and $150 head studs, maybe a "O" ring cylinder. Be sure NOT to get an oil-less turbo.

Big bores aren't very reliable unless you spend extra money on a GOOD cylinder, $125 SCE head gasket, $150 stud kit and decking the head so it's flat.

A 105.5 big bore motor is 734cc. A 5mm stroker motor is 727cc.

So I do trail riding and drag racing, and I just talked to someone and they had recommended doing a stroker and porting the head, with a new cam and a larger throttle body. I'm trying to make 70 hp range. I still want reliable power and the ability to ride without it being crazy.
 

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You can do well over 70hp on a stock bore stock stroke engine. Only requires high compression piston, head porting, cam, throttle body, and race fuel or e85.
 

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What is your elevation? My build shown below is SS/SB and is at 68hp. Solid build for all terrain. My dyno was done right at 5000'
 

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You can do well over 70hp on a stock bore stock stroke engine. Only requires high compression piston, head porting, cam, throttle body, and race fuel or e85.
As Troy says, 70HP and torque around 55FP is possible with stock bore/stock stroke. You'll at least need a 11:1 piston that is pump gas safe, or depending on your elevation maybe 11.5:1 piston, head porting by a qualified porter, cam would be a HDD5050 or Web 4 and required springs and maybe bigger valves, and a +3 bored factory throttle body. High 70HP would need 14:1 compression, bigger valves for sure and race fuel/E85. And as mentioned, SCE head gasket and studs. A 12:1 piston is available but if running race gas , might as well as do 14:1 Want more torque and more HP, do a stroker, but be ready to spend $2000 on 5mm or more stroker, trued, balanced and welded. No matter what crank you use, always have it trued and welded. On ALL my builds I like to use a "crank bearing support plate" available from Cuervo.

One thing to be aware of, 70HP can be a handful depending how tight or open your trails are.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
You can do well over 70hp on a stock bore stock stroke engine. Only requires high compression piston, head porting, cam, throttle body, and race fuel or e85.
So what would you recommend doing then? As in the compression, piston, how much porting, what type of cam and size of the throttle body?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As Troy says, 70HP and torque around 55FP is possible with stock bore/stock stroke. You'll at least need a 11:1 piston that is pump gas safe, or depending on your elevation maybe 11.5:1 piston, head porting by a qualified porter, cam would be a HDD5050 or Web 4 and required springs and maybe bigger valves, and a +3 bored factory throttle body. High 70HP would need 14:1 compression, bigger valves for sure and race fuel/E85. And as mentioned, SCE head gasket and studs. A 12:1 piston is available but if running race gas , might as well as do 14:1 Want more torque and more HP, do a stroker, but be ready to spend $2000 on 5mm or more stroker, trued, balanced and welded. No matter what crank you use, always have it trued and welded. On ALL my builds I like to use a "crank bearing support plate" available from Cuervo.

One thing to be aware of, 70HP can be a handful depending how tight or open your trails are.
Ok thank you. That's what I was looking for, trying to get more power but 70 is most likely plenty for what I am doing, Im also trying to stick with pump gas as well. My elevation is low, were pretty much at sea level for elevation. (600 ish)
 

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Ok thank you. That's what I was looking for, trying to get more power but 70 is most likely plenty for what I am doing, Im also trying to stick with pump gas as well. My elevation is low, were pretty much at sea level for elevation. (600 ish)
You should contact Daniel at Cuervo Racing and talk about your needs. That's all he does is Raptor 700's and has lots of winning races under his belt. T-Web2007 who replied above has a race motor, last summer, making around 115-125 horse power. He can correct me if I have it wrong, haaha. My wife said, "I hope he lives"! His lady also has a show winning fast 700.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
As Troy says, 70HP and torque around 55FP is possible with stock bore/stock stroke. You'll at least need a 11:1 piston that is pump gas safe, or depending on your elevation maybe 11.5:1 piston, head porting by a qualified porter, cam would be a HDD5050 or Web 4 and required springs and maybe bigger valves, and a +3 bored factory throttle body. High 70HP would need 14:1 compression, bigger valves for sure and race fuel/E85. And as mentioned, SCE head gasket and studs. A 12:1 piston is available but if running race gas , might as well as do 14:1 Want more torque and more HP, do a stroker, but be ready to spend $2000 on 5mm or more stroker, trued, balanced and welded. No matter what crank you use, always have it trued and welded. On ALL my builds I like to use a "crank bearing support plate" available from Cuervo.

One thing to be aware of, 70HP can be a handful depending how tight or open your trails are.

So another question, so If i have the head sent out and ported, with an 11:1 piston, a HDD5050 and +3 throttle body, would I have to do new valves? And would this combination be sufficient to give me 70HP right?
 

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You should contact Daniel at Cuervo Racing and talk about your needs. That's all he does is Raptor 700's and has lots of winning races under his belt. T-Web2007 who replied above has a race motor, last summer, making around 115-125 horse power. He can correct me if I have it wrong, haaha. My wife said, "I hope he lives"! His lady also has a show winning fast 700.
So another question, so If i have the head sent out and ported, with an 11:1 piston, a HDD5050 and +3 throttle body, would I have to do new valves? And would this combination be sufficient to give me 70HP right?
You'll be close, but, your best bet is to contact Cuervo. If money is tight you might do what needs to be done to the head while it's off. Like the saying, "Buy once, cry once". Do whatever needs to be done to the head at one time. Porting, oversize valves, HD springs, etc. You can use a stock cam and throttle body with a built head. and can be replaced anytime without pulling the head again.

Ask him about;
oversize valves
HD valve springs
bearing support plate
oil mod
true and weld the crank
head studs
SCE head gasket
 

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Discussion Starter #12
TB?

So I decided I am going to do full porting, +1 valves spring retainer clips, stage 2 cam, and an 11:1 CP piston. I was wondering if I should do a +2 or +3 tb? I have a 2016. Thank you
 

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So another question, so If i have the head sent out and ported, with an 11:1 piston, a HDD5050 and +3 throttle body, would I have to do new valves? And would this combination be sufficient to give me 70HP right?
So I decided I am going to do full porting, +1 valves spring retainer clips, stage 2 cam, and an 11:1 CP piston. I was wondering if I should do a +2 or +3 tb? I have a 2016. Thank you
Why the stage 2 cam instead of the stage 3 or hdd5050? Id go with the +3 throttle body, BUT, i never saw any mention of an intake anywhere in this thread. Do you have an aftermarket intake? You will need one...

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Why the stage 2 cam instead of the stage 3 or hdd5050? Id go with the +3 throttle body, BUT, i never saw any mention of an intake anywhere in this thread. Do you have an aftermarket intake? You will need one...

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
I am getting an intake just trying to figure eveything else out first. The people I have talked to people that say the stage 2 is better for low-end power, and trailer riding over stage 3 which gives more high-end power for open areas.
 

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I am getting an intake just trying to figure eveything else out first. The people I have talked to people that say the stage 2 is better for low-end power, and trailer riding over stage 3 which gives more high-end power for open areas.
If your more interested in technical trails than open riding, 70 hp might be a handfull. Im sb/ss with factory head (mods in sig) and for my skill level, thats about all i want on a trail. What intake are you getting?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If your more interested in technical trails than open riding, 70 hp might be a handfull. Im sb/ss with factory head (mods in sig) and for my skill level, thats about all i want on a trail. What intake are you getting?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
I was gonna get something similar to your set up as far as intakes go.
 

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I am getting an intake just trying to figure eveything else out first. The people I have talked to people that say the stage 2 is better for low-end power, and trailer riding over stage 3 which gives more high-end power for open areas.
If your more interested in technical trails than open riding, 70 hp might be a handfull. Im sb/ss with factory head (mods in sig) and for my skill level, thats about all i want on a trail. What intake are you getting?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
My 70+HP build was 11:1 CP piston, +1 valves, ported by Cuervo, 5MM stroker, HDD5050 cam (sold to 4stroker), +3 throttle body, FCI, dual DMC exhaust and PC5.

4stroker, Morphrider, T-web and myself know how to build power on 700 motors. T-web and myself learned from Daniel at Cuervo Racing and I've been teaching others. Did you talk to Daniel?

I believe everyone would agree with me for your build, just a matter of who does the porting. I prefer Cuervo.

I would recommend a +1 valves and head porting by Cuervo, 11:1 CP piston, Stage 3 cam, +3 bored throttle body, Monster single exhaust, Pro Design intake with Outerwear's, PC5, and factory head gasket. I also recommend a crank bearing support plate and retorquing the head gasket at least twice.

You already have exhaust so might as well keep it.

Pro Design intake is good but a FCI intake will flow more air.

The increased 11:1 compression will add bottom end that may be lost by the stage 3 cam, so you may actually notice a increase in the bottom end. The other option is the HDD5050 cam and matching HD springs that will give great bottom end, strong midrange and good over rev. Decide on a cam so the porting can be matched to it.

A +2 throttle body compared to a +3 throttle body isn't much, and they cost the same. Get the bigger one.

The build will be strong and reliable with any of the combinations above.
 

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If I had Cuervo port my head I would have him do the 5050 cam and valves to best match that power and to also get the throttle body from him, that way everything matches up by the same porter. Also send him the small TB tube that leads from your existing TB into the head so they can port match that rubber. I had to redo mine after the fact since I forgot, wasn't as fun that way lol.
 
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