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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
First things first, dump the Yamalube before starting or riding it!
I'm sure the dealer started it, and I rode it out of the dealer on to my truck, and rolled it into my garage.
I put in Amsoil break-in oil instead.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I added a CFM oil tank.
That adds another quart to the total capacity, up from stock 2.5 quarts to now 3.5 quarts.
So, more capacity means more oil pressure and cooler oil.
The oil will also be cooler as the tank is aluminum(disapates heat better than stock steel tank), and larger, so more surface area, as well as the tank has 2 tubes made into it for airflow/more cooling.
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
For better cooling
A Spal fan, 440cfm. So far, I have had no issues with the Spal fan cycling on/off from high amp draw, and have not yet needed to add a power wire to the battery to compensate.
An inline hose cooler.
Engine Ice.
MrCuervoRacing Early on fan thermostat switch, turns fan on at 200 degrees f instead of 225.
(inline sensor for Vapor and Early-on fan are visible in upper radiator hose)
Tusk Radiator Cap with Thermometer(I'm going to trim an opening in the next hood I get so that it is visible).
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
CFM Cooler Rack
Rtic cooler
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I cut one foot off of the shoulder strap, and my Ma ran it through her sewing machine to reattach the end.
Both ends of shoulder strap clip/unclip from cooler, and now with a shorter shoulder strap, the cooler draws down tight in the rack.
The white lettering has also since been Sharpied black, lol.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
CFM Coolant Tank Guard

There are Alot of rocks where I ride.
Murphy's Law says that even though a rock through the tank is unlikely...He's gonna throw 'em at it anyway!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This is an SE model, and came with a steel SE bumper, vs the standard plastic.
I swapped it out for a GYTR heavy duty bumper.
Much bigger, and better at knocking brush down.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
In hindsight, I would Not buy the GYTR swingarm skidplate.
Reason being, ground clearance.
It is a bad design, that's only justification would be you should be able to add a +4, +5 rear sprocket with so much gap between the sprocket and guard. And they made the rotor guard just as far away, apparently for symetry.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Park Brake Relocation Bracket.
New old stock, came out of Dezperado's warerhouse(who knows what all he still has in there!)
I tried it in several places, and prefer on the frame, under the left side of the tank.
I considered drilling 2 mounting bolt holes through the frame, but didn't want to weaken it.
Imstead, simple and dirty...I wrapped the frame there with electrical tape, and used a hose clamp.
Not the prettiest, but it's rock solid, you can't see it unless you look under the fairing, and it just works.
This was the first part I bought too, about 6 weeks before I got the 700, lol.
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Rooking good, (Asian wood for 'looking').
Be sure to 'nut and bolt' everything for tightness. Exhaust, a-arms, motor mounts, re-torque the head, hose clamps, intake, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Rooking good, (Asian wood for 'looking').
Be sure to 'nut and bolt' everything for tightness. Exhaust, a-arms, motor mounts, re-torque the head, hose clamps, intake, etc.
Yes sir, I have been going over it with a torque wrench, but didn't think about the head...will do!
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OuterWears airbox lid screen(I bought an oem lid to cut and kept my stock lid).
I'll run it with no lid and a FilterSkin on dry days, and this lid when it's wet or muddy.
Future plan is an FCI airbox and filter with a PCV.
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You'll need to add more power to overcome the added weight!
 
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