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Oh. What's wrong with the stock reverse?
Once you use a Dr. D ,you do not want to go back. Your hands never leave the bar. Just flick it with your thumb and go.

Priceless.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
Once you use a Dr. D ,you do not want to go back. Your hands never leave the bar. Just flick it with your thumb and go.

Priceless.....
Yep, this^
I just prefer it on the left side, instead of the right.
I put the ASV clutch perch on last night, as well as the clutch cable, and Dr.D cable to the hot-start lever.
I have to asjust both later today, then start on the switches.
Pictures later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 · (Edited)
Reverse and clutch cables connected to ASV clutch perch with hot-start.
No switches yet, pics/updates soon.
A short clutch pull, engaging far from the grip(how I like it), and a short push left on the lever to downshift into reverse. Just lift my left thumb, quicker and easier for me than moving my right thumb off of the throttle.
As expected, there is plenty of room to route the Dr.D cable to the left side, it runs up the left inside of the frame(under the oil tank hoses, the same as stock), then up and behind the coolant tank, next to the steering stem, nothing is in it's way and it has plenty of slack.
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Discussion Starter · #168 · (Edited)
Put the Ricochet swingarm skidplate on, measured it...and no thank you.
I emailed for a return.
It also has a ridicoulously excessive clearance between the sprocket and rotor, and sits only a quarter inch higher than the gytr.
The chain guide has exposed lock nuts underneathe to the inside, and there is less protection at the rear given the shape.
Is it a good skidplate?
I'm sure it does the job.
But, as far as I'm concerned, the discontinued PRM swingarm skidplate is the only correctly made skidplate out there.
The gytr and ricochet are not as good because of their design.
 

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Put the Ricochet swingarm skidplate on, measured it...and no thank you.
I emailed for a return.
It also has a ridicoulously excessive clearance between the sprocket and rotor, and sits only a quarter inch higher than the gytr.
The chain guide has exposed lock nuts underneathe to the inside, and there is less protection at the rear given the shape.
Is it a good skidplate?
I'm sure it does the job.
But, as far as I'm concerned, the discontinued PRM swingarm skidplate is the only correctly made skidplate out there.
The gytr and ricochet are not as good because of their design.

which skid plate you going with now?

also on a side note. i noticed the oil you are using is not the amsoil for atv. is it jaso certified for wet clutch the one your using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
which skid plate you going with now?

also on a side note. i noticed the oil you are using is not the amsoil for atv. is it jaso certified for wet clutch the one your using?
Yes, wet clutch Amsoil.

Gytr swingarm skidplate going back on for now, or maybe stock plastic.
I will continue to search for a used PRM.
May try a new KemiMoto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #177 ·
Started on my switches.
Simple and parts I already have work best.
The top half of the left switch with the headlights will stay in the stock location, with a metal clamp for the bottom, instead of the lower stock switch half that has start and stop in it(to give room for hot-start reverse lever to swing left).
Start will be on it's own, on the right side of the clutch perch.
Stop will be on the throttle side, below the front MC, left of the thumb throttle lever.
The lightbar switch, I'm not sure yet, and have yet to mount the lightbar.
I also looped and soldered the clutch safety, as the ASV perch doesn't use it.
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Pulled kill switch wires out of harness so they can go to the other side of the bars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
Finished wiring harness.
Black plug to kill switch is from an old Blaster harness(I save and reuse what I can).

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