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· Master of the Electron
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I'm not missing the point... I'm making the point that, as long as his system is working as designed, then a few degrees improvement is inconsequential.

I always stand by my belief that if the system is working, do nothing... if it isn't then FIX it instead of trying to find bandaids.
 

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I disagree.
660's All run hot.
So turning the fan on sooner by a switch makes them run cooler.
Machines run factory hot for emissions, not for any other need.
Cooler engines live longer.
It's not like you can make them run too cold.
 

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03 660, sparks exhaust,prodesigns intake,open airbox, stage 1 hotcam, +2+1 arms, +4 axle, yfz shocks
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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
I'm not missing the point... I'm making the point that, as long as his system is working as designed, then a few degrees improvement is inconsequential.

I always stand by my belief that if the system is working, do nothing... if it isn't then FIX it instead of trying to find bandaids.
I disagree.
660's All run hot.
So turning the fan on sooner by a switch makes them run cooler.
Machines run factory hot for emissions, not for any other need.
Cooler engines live longer.
It's not like you can make them run too cold.
I understand both arguments, and in most circumstances the stock cooling system is sufficient, but when I was in glamis trying to keep up with v8 sand rails with 240 degree coolant temps I was fighting for every degree I could get haha. A lot of the riding I do I’m maybe only going 35mph in sand so there’s not a lot of airflow but there’s a heavy load on the engine. Being able to turn the fan on early helped alot. Seems like the temp switch turning on at 220 is too late and it can’t catch up.
 

· Master of the Electron
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16,198 Posts
I disagree.
660's All run hot.
I disagree - a properly working cooling system keeps the operating temperature EXACTLY within the window where the engineers had intended it to be... how can you arbitrarily describe this as 'hot'? By whose standards?

Dodes - I have never overheated in years of riding at Glamis.- and its on at 208F, just to be accurate..
 

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I disagree - a properly working cooling system keeps the operating temperature EXACTLY within the window where the engineers had intended it to be... how can you arbitrarily describe this as 'hot'? By whose standards?

Dodes - I have never overheated in years of riding at Glamis.- and its on at 208F, just to be accurate..
By my own
I live where it is not uncommon to be 90 to 100 degrees F with 100% humidity in the summers.
Ride a stock or modified 660 in those conditions. Yes, I have owned them, and ridden quite a few.
Feel the heat radiating off of them, it's not warm, it is Very hot.
Now, turn the fan on manually, and magically, it is Very noticeably not nearly as hot.
Engineers design a machine to work where on the globe?? Everywhere!!
So the machine is designed so it can function in various climates.
Yes, I have been out west, through many deserts, and it gets Hot...but I assure you it's nothing like the humidity of the south east.
There is no one size fits all.
As I said, you cannot make the engine run too cold, but you Can knock it down a few degrees.
There legitimate reason why So Many people mod engines to run cooler.
To each their own.
You run your machines factory hot...I'll cool mine down some.
 

· Master of the Electron
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I pour it on my head as my body has a coolng system that is inferior to that of a 660... but this has gone way beyond the initial intent - that a couple of degrees makes little difference. It sure does to my head! ;-}

Six and I have a history of disagreement on the broader cooling system subject... doesn't mean I don't respect his wisdom and opinion!
 
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I pour it on my head as my body has a coolng system that is inferior to that of a 660... but this has gone way beyond the initial intent - that a couple of degrees makes little difference. It sure does to my head! ;-}

Six and I have a history of disagreement on the broader cooling system subject... doesn't mean I don't respect his wisdom and opinion!
I have much respect for your ability, contribution here, and opinion as well sir.
 

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03 660, sparks exhaust,prodesigns intake,open airbox, stage 1 hotcam, +2+1 arms, +4 axle, yfz shocks
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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
I disagree - a properly working cooling system keeps the operating temperature EXACTLY within the window where the engineers had intended it to be... how can you arbitrarily describe this as 'hot'? By whose standards?

Dodes - I have never overheated in years of riding at Glamis.- and its on at 208F, just to be accurate..
My bad, I stand corrected. Keep in mind my temps are based off of a tusk radiator cap. Can anyone recommend a more accurate inline gauge? I was looking at getting the mod quad one. I question the accuracy of the tusk cap. Thanks everyone for the knowledge and advice 🍻
 

· Master of the Electron
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IMO, the best way to get a reasonably accurate measurement is to use a Harbor Freight type (cheap) non-contact IR thermometer and look at the thermostat housing, the top and bottom of radiator, etc,

I know it's not in situ, but once you get oeace of mind that the system is working (from measuring with the IR thermo), the red warning light is enough to tell you if you are getting too hot.
 
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2001 Raptor 660r
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I ended up wiring my fan to a switch, which seems to have helped a lot. When riding in sand I just turn it on when it gets to about 160 and leave it on. I rode pretty hard last weekend and never saw it above 200. If anyone’s having problems overheating, and you’ve already determined your cooling system doesn’t have any issues I’d recommend the fan switch.
How did you guys wire a manual switch in ?
 

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Just put an on/off switch inline going to the hot side of the fan.
Remove the wires going to the sensor/thermostat in the bottom of the radiator.
All that sensor does is make the connection in the fan circuit once it reaches a certain temperature, so eliminate it and put in a manual switch.
 
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