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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
First off I want to thank everyone here for all the great advice and wisdom, I would not have been able to get my old 660 running without your help.
Well I sold the 660 and upgraded to an '06 700. I lived very far from the bike and my dad test rode it for my and said everything worked so I bought the bike without even looking at it. I know, I know, not a good idea. I live in Humboldt County, CA and everyone beats the crap out of their bikes here so I had to take a leap of faith.

Now onto the problem. When I first got on the bike to load it into the truck, started her up, pulled the clutch in, and as soon as I put it into the first the bike lunged forward, squealed the tires and promptly died. I thought maybe the clutch lever wasn't adjusted correctly at the handlebars so I tightened it up and same result. I was able to get it to work properly for just enough time to get it up the ramps, but after riding many ATV's I know it wasn't right.

Same thing happened to this guy:

Got the bike home, took the clutch out, and the previous owner had done the full fiber mod. I was planning on doing this anyways and had already bought replacement discs and fibers. The clutch actually didn't look that bad at all, measurements of the fibers showed they were all in spec. And unlike the OP from the other post, my plates were not stuck together. Since I already had the new clutch soaking in oil I just replaced it anyways. Basket had minor grooves but nothing I would consider to be a reason for replacement.

Put her all back together, added Rotella T4 for the oil, which from reading on here is what a lot of guys run. With the bike on a stand, I can spin the tires, pull the clutch and shift it into first, and the chain catches and stops the tires from spinning, even with the clutch pulled in. SO I'm assuming I still have the same problem. I've tried finding other posts with the same issue but have only found the one above, and his solution seemed to be oil related. A yamaha tech told me that the clutch pack may be too thick with the full fiber mod, not allowing the clutch to fully disengage, but then why would so many people run it? Just wondering if this is normal for the full fiber mod or if I need to keep tinkering until I fix it. My 660 never had this issue.

Sorry for the essay, and thanks for your help!
 

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Has the adjustments been made at the clutch lever by your right foot as well as on the bars? Sounds like it’s just adjustment.
 
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The Rotella oil is not the problem either.
The only oil problem you can have is that oils containing friction modifiers, like car oils And Yamalube(why it has friction modifiers is anyone's guess, but it's garbage in a wet-clutch regardless) will embed the clutch fibers and make them slip.
You will see the glaze and smell the burn if that's the problem.
Otherwise, as said above, it sounds like it's not adjusted correctly, and adjust it on top of the case, not just at the lever.
 

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Grooves in the clutch basket can cause the problem you have. If you can't purchase a new basket remove the basket and clean up the grooves with a file.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I feared that, and I specifically asked the yamaha tech if the slight grooves would cause my issue. The answer he gave was no, that the grooves would affect clutch feel and not disengagement.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Okay so when I adjust at the case I followed Mr Cuervo Racings video to a T! Turn the knob all the way clockwise, put the lever on with the marks lined up, then adjust the two 12 mm locking nuts for minimal play at all at the lever. Then go up to the handlebars and adjust for an 1/8th of an inch. Is there something I'm missing? I'd hate to take everything apart again just to file those little grooves.
 

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Try riding it first. The wheels will always spin when its up on a stand, the weight of the quad will keep it from going anywhere when its on the ground

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Try riding it first. The wheels will always spin when its up on a stand, the weight of the quad will keep it from going anywhere when its on the ground

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Right, but my problem is the wheels stop when I put it in gear, even when I have the clutch pulled in. Which tells me when I put it all back together and go to start it it will still jump and stall when put into gear. I've never experienced a problem like this on my 660.
 

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If it stalls when putting it in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in, you have a clutch issue. If you have proper free play and good oil the plates may be sticking, clutch basket has grooves or both. I have filed the clutch basket on bikes in the past and it fixed the issue. If the basket has deep grooves I would replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Okay, I'll take it apart again and post pics of the basket here so I can get your opinions on whether filing or replacement would be the way to go. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh one thing I forgot to ask. I've read in here that there are alignment marks on the clutch pressure plate that is supposed to line up with a mark on the basket. None of the youtube videos I watched show these marks or even mention this step. I haven't seen a post on the forum with a picture of the marks. Can anyone tell me what to look for? Don't wanna mess this up again.
 

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Its been a while, but if i remember correctly the pressure plate on the 660 has the marks and only goes on one way. The 700 on the other hand is made to go on in any direction

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Discussion Starter #13
Okay thanks. I'm considering just buying a wiseco forged basket. Found em on eBay for $200 and I want reliability. With a 734 big bore, stroker, power commander 3, hc3, pro flo intake, and Looney tune duals do you guys think the stock basket would even be worth filing down? Or will I just be dealing with this again in a couple seasons? Thanks!
 

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A basket with grooves is normally caused by continuous abuse of the clutch/popping it at high rpm.
What you need for high hp is good plates and stronger springs.
A quality basket doesn't hurt either, but wouldn't be a need with those mods.

Have you checked the old basket yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah there was some grooving, but I foolishly didn't think it would be that big of a deal and put it all back together. I'll post a pic when I get it taken apart here in a couple of days.
 

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Yeah there was some grooving, but I foolishly didn't think it would be that big of a deal and put it all back together. I'll post a pic when I get it taken apart here in a couple of days.
A small amount of grooving is normal long term wear.
Once it's enough to where they cannot slide freely(usually from abuse) is when and why the clutch gets grabby.
 

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Try putting a zip tie to hold the clutch in when not using the bike I had the same problem when I did the full fiber mod. What is happening is all of the oil gets push out and the plates get stuck together. Mine never shut off on me could be the problem to
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Try putting a zip tie to hold the clutch in when not using the bike I had the same problem when I did the full fiber mod. What is happening is all of the oil gets push out and the plates get stuck together. Mine never shut off on me could be the problem to
Okay I'll give that a try. My girlfriend's Father always made her put a velcro strap on her clutch for her kx450r with a recluse clutch so maybe that's why.
 

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I have the full fiber mod on my Raptor and a rekluse on my bike and never have to store it with the clutch lever pulled in.
 

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Engaging the clutch pulls the plates together.
So keeping the lever tied to the bar would Help the plates stick together, not the other way around.
 
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