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Discussion Starter #1
New guy here. Ive done my whole build from this forum. i got a 11.1 720 with a hot rods stage three cam, +1 valves, 35mm fcr's (158,160 mains) looney tuned dual exhaust, seriously ported head, cfm airbox, full build from the ground up. started with a 2001 660 in a box that i traded a pair of subs for. everything powdercoated and new. I had my laptop with this forom and a yamaha manual and a clymer by my side. Hears what happened i went to break it in today and i put the battery in and reverse light stays on no matter what. tried grounding out the switch will not shut off. second it wont rev past 4 grand, it starts in gear and when you pull the front brake the rev limiter drops it to 1400. also the neutral light wont light up bulb is good. alot of money spent in the last couple of months and today isnt going well. any ideas?
 

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Master of the Electron
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1st, welcome to the forum.

Sounds to me as if the harness is connected improperly in several places... do you know how to analyze and follow the wiring diagram at the end of the manual? I'll be glad to help you walk thru it if it is a problem for you.

This isn't a serious problem - it's just a matter of checking a few connections and making sure that things are connected in the proper place... for instance - the clutch switch and the parking brake switch have very similar connectors - if you have connected the clutch switch to the parking brake connectors on the harness, when you pull the clutch the PB RPM limiter will turn on - sounds like what's happeneing to me.

It's not the build gone wrong, just a few mistakes in harness hook up, most likely. Start out by grounding the Green/white stripe reverse switch wire (I think you've grounded the light blue neutral switch wire by mistake), and unplugging the green/yellow parking brake switch wire. See what happens now.

Please feel free to ask questions, we'll help you get it straightened out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the info so far, I unplugged the parking brake from the cdi so that rev limiter is gone. Also i cut the green white wire at the cdi and ran it to the battery. Reverse light is gone however still starts in gear and i cant get past four grand. I just hit 205 degrees and i had to shut down for a while. Fan never turned on.
 

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thanks for the info so far, I unplugged the parking brake from the cdi so that rev limiter is gone. Also i cut the green white wire at the cdi and ran it to the battery. Reverse light is gone however still starts in gear and i cant get past four grand. I just hit 205 degrees and i had to shut down for a while. Fan never turned on.
You did ground the green and white wire at the battery............As far as the heat, how do you measure this and how long has it run...........
 

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Master of the Electron
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So, another issue - the fan is turned on via thermo switch 1 at the bottom of the radiator - unplug the connector, short across its pins. with key switch on, fan should come on. If it doesn't, either things are mis-wired, the fan breaker is blown or the fan motor is not working.

Is neutral light stuck on (not according to your 1st post)? if so, it will start in gear - find out what's up with the light blue wire that's supposed to screw to the neutral switch.

What have you done with the yellow/black and black wires that the clutch switch are supposed to be connected to?

You didn't answer my Q about the wiring diagram.

Let's get the wiring resolved first, then we can figure why it won't rev beyond 4000.. probably jetting - but without all the electrics working correctly, it's a waste of time to deal with the carbs yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i have a trail tech venom installed and it was idleing in one spot for about twenty minutes when it hit two hundred. putting around in first and second it never went over 145. and yes green and white straight to negative of battery.
 

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Master of the Electron
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i have a trail tech venom installed and it was idleing in one spot for about twenty minutes when it hit two hundred. putting around in first and second it never went over 145. and yes green and white straight to negative of battery.

Where's your Trailtech temperature sensor mounted? Fan should come on at 208F at bottom of radiator (the coolest point the coolant will be). It's going to be a lot hotter at the sensor, if it's in the top hose side, so 200F's not an issue. Warnng light should come on at about 250F.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
k, i unplugged the thermostat at bottom of radiator and fan turned on. and i have been using the wiring diagram in the back of my clymer for alot of my troubleshooting. but the neutral light never comes on. and ive swapped the bulb with the reverse light and it still dosnt come on
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yes my sensor is mounted right at the top of the head and the alarm goes off at 205 and 230 so i guess i should raise them a little. i just panicked when it started flashing and shut it off.
 

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Master of the Electron
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k, i unplugged the thermostat at bottom of radiator and fan turned on. and i have been using the wiring diagram in the back of my clymer for alot of my troubleshooting. but the neutral light never comes on. and ive swapped the bulb with the reverse light and it still dosnt come on

Please clarify - you unplugged the connector from the thermo switch and IMMEDIATLEY the fan came on with no more action on your part, or you shorted across the connector pins to get the fan to come on?

And, again, RE: the light blue wire, is it screwed to the neutral switch? If it is screwed to the switch, and the switch is working, AND the wiring from there to the light is correct, AND the bulb is working, then the neutral light will come on when in neutral... I suspect the light blue wire is NOT connected to the neutral switch, and the yellow/black and black harness wires with bullet connectors are just plugged into each other, instead of to the clutch switch as they should be.


Also, download the factory service manual from the 660 maintenance section - a sticky near the top - it has the wiring diagram (last page) that we all follow and know to be correct - always a possibility that the aftermarket manual may have an error or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
no, i had to short out the thermostat wires for the fan to turn on. and yes the blue wire is attached to the neutral switch screw. but you did get me on those bullet connectors the black and yellow/black i do have them plugged into each other. there wasnt anything around that area when i ran the harness they seemed to fit together great, woops.
 

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Master of the Electron
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no, i had to short out the thermostat wires for the fan to turn on. and yes the blue wire is attached to the neutral switch screw. but you did get me on those bullet connectors the black and yellow/black i do have them plugged into each other. there wasnt anything around that area when i ran the harness they seemed to fit together great, woops.
Okay, the yellow/black and black shorted together is why it starts in gear. There should be a pair of same colored wires coming down from the clutch switch (assuming you have a stock clutch perch) that you should connect these to.

BUT, just unplug them, and see if bike will start in neutral - if it does, then the blue, neutral switch wire is working correctly up to the CDI, and the problem is with the bulb wiring.

BTW, how are you sure you are plugging the bulb into the neutral socket, not the temperature socket? Neutral socket should have light blue and brown wires, temperature light has red/black and white/blue wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i think i see the whole dilema now. i used a 05 clutch/pb so i could relocate the pb. it looks like i plugged my 05 clutch into the front brake location and my front brake into the pb location. and since the o5 pb dosnt have wires that would be my absence of use for my bullet connectors. so i guess ill have to make sure i dont leave keys in it so my kids dont start it.
However im beginning to think my jetting is holding me under four grand. all you guys with 39mm fcrs are running way bigger jets than me.
 

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Master of the Electron
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BINGO! Sounds like you've got it, Ollie!

So, plug the clutch switch wires into the black/yellow and black bullet connector pair, leave the PB harness wires unattached - now it will start in gear with clutch pulled.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Alright went to store got some bullet connectors and added wire to the 05 clutch perch and soldered on the bullet connectors, plugged them in and viola. now i just got to figure out my power issues. i seen that member "03limitededition" seems to have a very similiar build to mine and he has 155 mains im running 158,160 not sure how big to go. i only ordered 145-165 jets and i cant see how going to 160,165 would double my rpm
 

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Alright went to store got some bullet connectors and added wire to the 05 clutch perch and soldered on the bullet connectors, plugged them in and viola. now i just got to figure out my power issues. i seen that member "03limitededition" seems to have a very similiar build to mine and he has 155 mains im running 158,160 not sure how big to go. i only ordered 145-165 jets and i cant see how going to 160,165 would double my rpm
Make sure you dont compare Dynojet mains to Mikuni mains..........they do not compare number wise............:)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Now when i jetted my 05 i read up about the dynojets numbers being there own. However i have fcr's and i guess i didnt know there is two kinds of jets.
 

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There is only one kind of jets for FCR. Keihin jets.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hello 03LimitedEditionRaptor, I must say that i based my jetting on your signature before i bolted up my carbs. Which i only upped mine to 158,160 cause of the slight difference in the lte's and your big core. My rappy will not get past 4 grand in gear and 5500 in neutral. My elevation here is a hair over 1,000 is yours significantly different?
 

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I am at 2500 ft above sea level.

I am still pretty rich across the board (pilot, needle, mains) too acording to my NGK AFX wide band O2. It runs good, but if I slam the throttle open in neutral it will cough and spudder and die.

I don't have the factory fuel screws in. I have R&D flex jets. They are remote cable fuel screw.

I also have a R&D Power Pump 2 accelerator pump cover. It allows you to adjust the fuel squirt from the FCR's acclerator pump. I have the screw backed out and only get about 1 second quick shot of fuel.
 
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