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Discussion Starter #1
Ok whats everyone's opinion on running a mudbuster cam with a hot rods stroker kit? Or should I just put in an higher compression piston and call it a day? Either way I want to change the stock rod out so hopefully I cant add to the "oh shit" story's on here. This is why I'm contemplating the stroker kit. I ride trails and sand. Anywhere from sea level to 4500ft. I already have the mudbuster cam, CT full exhaust no lid with a proflow intake, clear tube method, port matched the intake boots stock carbs with dynojet needles. I would like to stay away from race gas (I'm broke enough as it is) So let me know what you think before I blow money on stroker kit.
thanks everyone!
 

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Ok whats everyone's opinion on running a mudbuster cam with a hot rods stroker kit? Or should I just put in an higher compression piston and call it a day? Either way I want to change the stock rod out so hopefully I cant add to the "oh shit" story's on here. This is why I'm contemplating the stroker kit. I ride trails and sand. Anywhere from sea level to 4500ft. I already have the mudbuster cam, CT full exhaust no lid with a proflow intake, clear tube method, port matched the intake boots stock carbs with dynojet needles. I would like to stay away from race gas (I'm broke enough as it is) So let me know what you think before I blow money on stroker kit.
thanks everyone!
Try a 3 plughead first, you wont need a stroker kit...............:D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I sure would if I had the extra money willy! You wouldnt feel like donating on toward a good cause would you? :D I would advertise it everywhere I could in Oregon! lol
 

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Always wish I woulda tried a 3 plugger Willy !

Personally, I loved my 720. Had the 10.5 pump gas HR setup. Ran the stage 1 (similar profile to the MudBuster I guess?) for a short period (with a CT pipe). It was a torque monster :lol: Fun for sure, but you'll be disappointed anytime you really want to get on the throttle. Low end power is great, but mid-high was... not so much :rofl:

Stage 2 was a decent cam, much better than the HC1. X4 and Stage 3 Hotcam were the best in the stroker hands down. I was a bit afraid of losing too much low end when I went with an X4 (treeshots, YOU know :) ), but the crank MORE than made up for it, never noticed a lack of power down there.

If you go that route, skip the X4 altogether and do the Stage 3 HotCam. Dyno sheets between the X4 and HC3 are almost identical on a decent 720 build, and the HC is like half the price !
 

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Try a 3 plughead first, you wont need a stroker kit...............:D
You know, there may be some truth to what willy is saying (just kidding), especially if he's implying a good port and polish with the three plug option. Here's my 2 cents on what you're asking. Seg you're right the stage 1 cam with a stroker set up is a trud right along with the stock cam. Yes, it will jerk the bottom out of hell but you're not going to unleash the easy horsepower numbers that the stroker motor can produce. I've always been a proponent of keeping the valve train light due to my motors being more of the endurance woods type rather than the hill shooters or drag racers who like the big lift cam numbers which require 100+ lbs of seat pressure and open pressures close to 200 lbs. The first stroker motor I built I tried something we used to do on the chevy heads and that's drop the spring pressure according to what cam I'm running. I took 030" off the spring seats and ran the Kibble white dual springs on a stage 2 cam (about 70lbs seat pressure). Along with that, I opened up the head quite a lot and cut the valve seats and ran +1 intake and exhaust valves then cut the throats to 87%. So going back to what Seg said and what Willy said. The head work allowed me to run a mild/low frictional force valve train, with the stage 2 cam and when that motor hit 3000 RPM you couldn't keep the wheels on the ground. It was crazy fast...I couldn't run that head in the woods because that port job did cost me some bottom end and I really wasn't prepared to learn how to ride that bike at the time so I built another head with a mild port and stock valve diameter running the stage 2 and it's a completely different "mild-mannered" animal. My point is this. If you're on a budget and want good horse power that doesn't require much maintenance then invest in the head and run a mild cam like the stage 2. The more you do to help flow in and out of the head (and I believe willy will also add increase fuel burn or flame front, whichever applies) will produce never ending horsepower with very little maintenance. Add the X3, X4 or X14 cam and then your going to the moon but you'd better keep the spring pressure up and watch everything close.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the great info everyone! The reason I'm asking about the stroker is because I am already in the engine this far to change the connecting rod out and getting a new crank vs new rod is close on $ so a new stroker crank isn't all that much more. I picked up a new wiseco 10.5:1 1mm over cheap 10 months ago with gasket set and I loved how the bike run with the mudbuster. I would love to try out one of willy heads someday but its not in cards for a while. I know porting can do wonders so would I be better off to get a new stock crank and save up for a real nice willy head or stroke it and live with my mudbuster for awhile?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also has anyone run a wiseco stock cranka? Are they any good?
 

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With Willy's 3 plug head you will not loose any bottom end, In fact you will gain it to say the least, & top end is endlesssssss :D.If you go that rout dont be afraid the big cam's. Lots of good info hear thow...
 

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Also has anyone run a wiseco stock cranka? Are they any good?
I believe the wiseco cranks are the same as Hot Rods but in a different box. The stock stroke Crank and Rod will give you more piston choices unless you buy the Barker 4mm stroke crank. Barker Cranks allow you to run stock stroke pistons (shelf pistons) because the Barker rod is 2mm shorter on the 4mm stroked crank. The Crank isn't your big worry, it's the factory Rod that's weak so if you're going to build Horsepower (more compression) then buy an aftermarket crank and rod.
 

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With Willy's 3 plug head you will not loose any bottom end, In fact you will gain it to say the least, & top end is endlesssssss :D.If you go that rout dont be afraid the big cam's. Lots of good info hear thow...
I run a combination of X4 cam, 11-1 piston, HV porting, Dyna FS ignition and on the oval tracker, first gear is removed from service, so the oval tracker starts in second, using a 12 -48 sprocket combo, the bike launches wildly, usually pulling the front wheel in an uncontrollable wheelie, (this is the biggest problem) and will pull over 80 mph in top gear.
As Banshee2Raptor says, the power starts low, and the revs are endless............
 

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I run an x4 cam in my raptor. I like it a lot. Having a 660 rev like a 450 is fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks every for the feedback! The rings on my bike started the tear down but the rod is the whole reason its tore down the rest. I just dont want to chance it. I think I'm going to get a stock replacement crank and save up for a whilly 3 plugger special. With a 10.5:1 piston stock crank where would a good starting point be with the jets? Mudbuster DJ needels proflow intake no lid and CT exhaust. Thanks again everyone!
 

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I run a combination of X4 cam, 11-1 piston, HV porting, Dyna FS ignition and on the oval tracker, first gear is removed from service, so the oval tracker starts in second, using a 12 -48 sprocket combo, the bike launches wildly, usually pulling the front wheel in an uncontrollable wheelie, (this is the biggest problem) and will pull over 80 mph in top gear.
As Banshee2Raptor says, the power starts low, and the revs are endless............
That's some Low gear to be pulling 80mph? I can see why the bike launches wildly, it's almost the same as stock gearing with the transmission in 1st gear. Your total final drive ratio is 3.62:1. You must be turning that motor over 11,000 RPM with 20" rears.
1st... 31/12 (2.583)
2nd... 30/18 (1.667)
3rd... 27/21 (1.286)
4th... 22/21 (1.048)
5th... 19/21 (.905)
 

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That's some Low gear to be pulling 80mph? I can see why the bike launches wildly, it's almost the same as stock gearing with the transmission in 1st gear. Your total final drive ratio is 3.62:1. You must be turning that motor over 11,000 RPM with 20" rears.
1st... 31/12 (2.583)
2nd... 30/18 (1.667)
3rd... 27/21 (1.286)
4th... 22/21 (1.048)
5th... 19/21 (.905)
10300 rpm................
I imagine the tires grow a bit with speed............
 
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