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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im trying to install my A-arms tonight, and I ran into a problem. Well...at least I think it is. The instructions tell me to mount the upper A-arms with the straight bend towards the front...but when I do that, there is a good 3" or more distance (horizontally) between the ball joints. It looks like my caster would be way out of wack.

When I mount it the other way, with the straight bend towards the rear, there is about 1/2"-1" difference horizontally...which is what looks the best.

Are the directions right, or not. The directions are for Houser LT arms on a Honda...but I have the Std travel arms...
 

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The straight side of the arm "should" be towards the front, and the bent side should be towards the rear. The idea is to move the spindle forward. Do you have the lower arms on the correct side?

This is how ive seen all aftermarket arms get mounted. Ive never seen Housers in person, so maybe they are doing something different, although I cant imagine why.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I went ahead and mounted the top A-arm with the straight side in the rear. When it was in the front, I couldnt even force the spindle to connect with both ball joints. Also...with the straight side of the upper towards the rear...the grease zerk is on the top. The lower arms are on correctly. The Houser logo is facing upwards and the zerks are on top.
 

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Good, glad you got them on there. What shocks are you going to run?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Stock shocks. The arms are only +1/2. My SE's shocks will easily handle them.
 

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I have the houser LT slicast arms and the bend goes to the front.
 

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I'm not familliar with the Slicast sytem but typically speaking caster should be able to start out closer to the zero on the Raptor. I cannot imagine it starting out at more than 6 degrees. I would give Houser a call. Maybe someone screwed up and sent you Honda stuff ???

Typical caster sdjustment range is between 3 and 6 degrees. Less caster corners easier and more caster makes it more stable at high speed.
Camber adjustment should be -1 to -4.5 degrees.

Less caster with more camber will require a steering stabilizer. It will steer really quickly but be more unstable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here's a couple of pictures I just took.  This first one shows the camber and caster.  You can see that the upper ball joint is pretty much moved all the way in.















In this picture, you can see the spacers I added to move the upper A-arm rearward. 














It's very stable at high speeds, but it also very predictable in the woods.  The steering is a little heavy, but thats fine with me.
 

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If the upper ball joint is further back than the lower ball joint it has positive caster. That's a good thing. The angle should be +3 to +6 degrees. Actually unless you are desert racing think more along the lines of +3 to +4.5 degrees.

If the distance between the tires on the top is less than on the bottom that's a good thing. That is negative camber. The angle should be between -1 and -4.5 degrees.

If your set-up is correct and the steering still feels heavy check your toe-in. measure the distance from the front of the tire in the middle horizontally in line with the spindle. Write that down.
Now measure the same center point at the rear of the tire. Write that down.
The front distance should be 1/4" less in the front than the back. You adjust this with the tie rods. MAKE SURE you adjust the tie rods equally or the quad will pull to one side.

To find the angle on caster and camber settings you can use a good straight edge and an angle finder. You can get an angle finder at just about any hardware store. Loews Home Depot etc. They depend on gravity to work so make sure you are on a flat level surface and the quad is on the ground. Not on a stand. The quad must be at ride height. Also make sure your tire pressures are correct and even. This is very important.

They look like this...
 

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One more thing...From the picture you posted it "appears" that you did not install longer tie rods. Those look like the stock units. You will need to install longer tie rods since you went with wider a-arms. The stock a-arms are pitifully weak anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah...I know all about the camber/caster and toe in/out. The A-arms came with new tie-rods, so the width has been compensated for. I do need to get an angle finder just so I can see where my settings are.

I do know that my toe is not perfect. I've just been eyeballing it, and adjusting it until it 'looked' right. I looked for some string the other night when I was installing everything, but it was 1AM and I didnt feel like tearing apart the garage to find some :grin_nod:
 

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ATC-Crazy said:
Yeah...I know all about the camber/caster and toe in/out. The A-arms came with new tie-rods, so the width has been compensated for. I do need to get an angle finder just so I can see where my settings are.
Sorry bud...just trying to help.

Sometimes I go a little overboard but it may help others who are reading this thread or do a search in the future on caster/camber. I wish someone would have given this information to me when I set my front end up. It would have saved me a lot of internet searching and time. ::)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Now dont get me wrong, I really appreciate everyone helping out. I was just letting you know, that I know, so that we could move on as to not dwell on our views of the settings. And you are right...it will help others who are looking for this information. Thats one thing that I never thought about.
 
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