[Headrope]

I'm considering upgrading to the three mods but keep wondering about the intake filters- they look the same as the cold air intakes for tuner cars.
Any chance the K&N "quad" filter is the same as the one for a Dodge Neon or other car?

 

[VelociRaptor]

Thats possible. But if your thinkin about just makin your own consider that the main performance gain is not the filter but the adaptor itself....big time differences between the factory one and the aftermarket adaptors.

 

[135boom]

Thats possible. But if your thinkin about just makin your own consider that the main performance gain is not the filter but the adaptor itself....big time differences between the factory one and the aftermarket adaptors.

exactly......the 3 leading intakes (GYTR, Prodesign, and Trinity) all have pretty damn big filters, that at the neck all measure out at 3.5 inches.

 

[GEARHEAD9969]

The only tip I'd reccomend for the GYTR adapter is to re-machine the I.D. taper. I did mine before I installed it. I noticed there was a small lip between the rubber tube and the adapter ( the adapter was about .070 smaller. I had machined a 2.5 deg taper so that the exit from the adpter to the rubber was very smooth so there would be no chance of any air cavatation. Than I smoothed out the air filter side so that the air would flow more at an angle than over a near radiused vertical wall. Sounds complicated but if you look at it makes sense. Depending on the terrain, K&N type filters are a bad choice for wet sandy stuff with out a pre filter. I use both the two stage foam and the GYTR (k&N) type depending on where I'm going and what mother nature's been doing. Either brand you choose you will notice a difference

 

[135boom]

The only tip I'd reccomend for the GYTR adapter is to re-machine the I.D. taper. I did mine before I installed it. I noticed there was a small lip between the rubber tube and the adapter ( the adapter was about .070 smaller. I had machined a 2.5 deg taper so that the exit from the adpter to the rubber was very smooth so there would be no chance of any air cavatation. Than I smoothed out the air filter side so that the air would flow more at an angle than over a near radiused vertical wall. Sounds complicated but if you look at it makes sense. Depending on the terrain, K&N type filters are a bad choice for wet sandy stuff with out a pre filter. I use both the two stage foam and the GYTR (k&N) type depending on where I'm going and what mother nature's been doing. Either brand you choose you will notice a difference

I thought the GYTR's came all nice and tapered. My prodesign couldnt get much more tapered. Its really round and smooth!

 

[Randy27]

The only tip I'd reccomend for the GYTR adapter is to re-machine the I.D. taper. I did mine before I installed it. I noticed there was a small lip between the rubber tube and the adapter ( the adapter was about .070 smaller. I had machined a 2.5 deg taper so that the exit from the adpter to the rubber was very smooth so there would be no chance of any air cavatation. Than I smoothed out the air filter side so that the air would flow more at an angle than over a near radiused vertical wall. Sounds complicated but if you look at it makes sense. Depending on the terrain, K&N type filters are a bad choice for wet sandy stuff with out a pre filter. I use both the two stage foam and the GYTR (k&N) type depending on where I'm going and what mother nature's been doing. Either brand you choose you will notice a difference

You must have got an odd ball or a blem? As I didnt find the above to be the case with my GYT-R adapter :3question:

 

[GEARHEAD9969]

I had gotten mine early 06, maybe it was a gen1 design or something. It's pretty easy to check, just run your finger across the inner seam where the aluminum meets the rubber. If there is no lip you got lucky.

 

[135boom]

I had gotten mine early 06, maybe it was a gen1 design or something. It's pretty easy to check, just run your finger across the inner seam where the aluminum meets the rubber. If there is no lip you got lucky.

Your talking about against the direction of flow though arnt you? I will agree with you anyday that a smooth rounded lip is better than square....but against the direction of flow? Is that much to be worried about? Air isnt "hitting" it like if it were on the filter side. Air is just rushing over the lip your talking about...shoudnt ever hit it......

I am going to go look at my pro design.....

 

[GEARHEAD9969]

nope it was with the direction of flow, the adapter I.D. was smaller than the rubber. I just opened mine up to match the rubber joint. On the GYTR it also had a fairly abrupt direction change on the filter side. From past experience making throttle body components for the race bikes the rule of thumb " the smoother the transition the better". I guess I was kinda picking fly crap out of horse manuer, but it was a detail tha bothered me...

 

[135boom]

nope it was with the direction of flow, the adapter I.D. was smaller than the rubber. I just opened mine up to match the rubber joint.

Exactly! That shouldnt hurt flow. If it was vise-versa it would, because you would have a lip protruding out and interfering with the flow of air. In this case nothing is protruding....its just a "step down"....which to me wouldnt make much, if any, difference.

Air is traveling in threw the filter...then it hits the adaptor which must be rounded, otherwise your intake air would be turbulent...then it goes threw the adaptor and goes into the intake boot, never once "hitting" that seam between the adaptor and the boot ( its going right over it)...BECAUSE the adaptor is in fact smaller than the boot. If the boot was smaller than the adaptor then yeah, it would effect the flow. I dont think "step downs" would effect flow. "step ups" would however...and in this case the step up is on the outside of the adaptor on the filter side. Its all rounded and honed very nice. On the back side (boot side) it doesnt "have" to be honed perfect because the air is just being dumped into the boot and traveling up to the TB.
....If you turned your motor into a blower instead of a vacuum I could see your point, cause that joint between the boot and the adaptor would be against the direction of flow.....

I did go look at my prodesign and the lip of the adaptor is rounded smooth on both the intake filter side, and the boot side....

 

[135boom]

Anyone look at the opening of the TB yet, and see if its round and smooth....cause that junction is against the direction of flow. That IS hitting a lip, and is a lot more crucial to keeping airflow smooth.

 

[VelociRaptor]

Im one of the top LS1 TB porters in the country and I didnt see a need in porting mine when I had it tore down. Also, my GYTR adaptor was fine as is.

 

[Randy27]

I'll have to take another look at my adapter when I get my 700R back home. When I compared it to a proflo it was identical to the eye. I know my GYT-R has a nice transition from the filter into the adapter that creats a nice venturi effect. The throttle body is a whole nother story and stock they really hold the big bores back.

 

[raptorsquid]

So Randy, what do they do with the throttle body on the big bores? I've had taper-boring done to a carb before but I hadn't heard of anyone doing this with the raptor TB.

 

[VelociRaptor]

The TB would benifit from a overbore with a new blade but as in standard porting I say its not worth the effort.

 

[GEARHEAD9969]

I agree with you guys about the transition, the GYTR is a good unit. Like I said The mod I made was just pick'n fly crap from horse manuer....lol I spend my days working with tolerences 4 to 5 places to right of the decimal point so a miss match like that kinda bugs me...lol type A personality I guess.