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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Picked my Raptor 700 up on Wednesday, went trail riding on Thursday for about an hour, everything was fine. Saturday we take the quads out to the dunes and are riding around fine for an hour, flats, hills, hill climbs, wide open flats back to the beach we drive down to a flat area and everything at that point was fine. Wife jumps on and has trouble taking off and kills it two or three times, gets going, kills it a few more times making turns and manages to get it going and rides down the beach about 100ft and I see her stop and waving. We ride down and she can't get it to move, clutch looks like its not engaging. I jump on and I'm able to get to move at like 1% speed, so we stop and try adjusting the cable on the clutch, was able to get moving for about 5 secs and then lost everything. No amount of adjusting the cable would get any uptake on the clutch, I can't even shift into 1st at this point.

I have less than 3 hours of drive time on the quad, its 4 days old and looks like the clutch is completely fried. Does that sound like the case? I haven't even had a chance to fully break the machine in, guy at the shop said run 1 tank of gas through then change the oil / filter and we hadn't even driven that much, i'm pretty sure I have a third of a tank of gas at least. The engine starts up fine but the clutch won't do anything and I can't shift into any gears. There was a dozen or so times I took off in 2nd, but I wasn't riding on the clutch and the take off was smooth as could be. Its crazy that it went from 100% working clutch to boom nothing in a matter of minutes.
 

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Is there any tension in the lever when you pull it? Have you looked down at where the cable pulls the linkage on the case and seen if it is moving?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah there's tension, I see the cable pulling the linkage on the case and the arm is articulating.
 

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Do you have freeplay on the clutch lever when it is all the way out, what I mean is there slack in the lever before you start to feel the tension? Should be about first 1/8th or so of the pull where it is free and no tension. Know you said you tried adjusting the clutch but were you able to adjust the freeplay in it?
 

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sandman89
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#2 3 h ago (Edited)

I would guess something has happened to the push rod or the push pin, for a new clutch to completely fail instantly this would be the first place I would start to look. Parts number 24 and 21 in this diagram.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Do you have freeplay on the clutch lever when it is all the way out, what I mean is there slack in the lever before you start to feel the tension? Should be about first 1/8th or so of the pull where it is free and no tension. Know you said you tried adjusting the clutch but were you able to adjust the freeplay in it?
We adjusted it all the way out on the bars, and then took it in by the arm on the case, almost no freeplay in it currently.

I would guess something has happened to the push rod or the push pin, for a new clutch to completely fail instantly this would be the first place I would start to look. Parts number 24 and 21 in this diagram.
If i'm in messing with the push lever / rod, would it make sense to just get a new clutch kit since I'll have the case off and everything torn apart? Going to call the dealership today and run everything past them and see what they're thinking before I jump into anything. This sucks!
 

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If it is new should be under warranty, or was it used? I would pull the side case off and see what the problem is before I ordered any parts. Could be several things and if the bike is new with just a couple hours the clutch plates should still be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Its brand new and has the factory warranty ya. I picked it up Wednesday and drove it an hour on Thursday, and two hours on Saturday. I'm thinking I'm just going to let the dealer deal with it at the moment, and if they come back with any non-warranty repairs/charges I'll just do that work myself, but maybe I can use them as a diagnosis at least.
 

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Check out Cuervo's youtube video on problems with the friction modifiers in Yamalube making clutches slip.
Worse yet that the pieces of clutch fibers clog the oil screen, and can oil starve and sieze an engine.
His fix is different oil and the friction plates from a yfz450, as those have a bigger gripping surface(450 and 700 steels are the same part).

Whenever the 700 I put a deposit on shows up, I will dump the oil first thing, before I ride it, I have Amsoil break-in oil, and then their synthetic, and oem Yamaha oil filters on the bench ready to go.

And, I wouldn't do Anything else to yours!!!
Give them no reason to blame you for anything! As this is the dealer's responsibility, not yours.
I also Really hope Yamaha's quality is not suffering in their haste to catch up with the sellout demand.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
And, I wouldn't do Anything else to yours!!!
Give them no reason to blame you for anything! As this is the dealer's responsibility, not yours.
I also Really hope Yamaha's quality is not suffering in their haste to catch up with the sellout demand.
That's what I'm thinking atm, I'm not touching anything till the dealer takes a look at it. Dropping it off later today and will post an update once I hear from their service guy.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update 9/3/2020:

Dealer called back, said "the clutch is smoked because your freeplay was set too tight".... No...I adjusted the freeplay after the clutch went out when i was trying to get something moving since i was 3 miles out on the dunes. Said they put in a "goodwill request" with Yamaha, since the bike has such low hours on it, to cover some of the costs. But hes saying its $400 to replace the clutch if Yamaha doesn't bite. Beyond frustrating that I have <3hrs on this guy and the clutch is smoked.
 

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Well on the bright side, it will probly feel faster when you get it back without the clutch slipping!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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If adjusted correctly it will last. I have 123hrs on the factory clutch. When mine was new I replaced the half fiber and put in Rotella oil. Change oil every 8-10 hours. Put an hour meter on it while it is new. With no free play in the cable, it's like riding with the clutch pulled in slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If adjusted correctly it will last. I have 123hrs on the factory clutch.
Yeah that's the crazy thing, I have less than 3 hours on this and the clutch is toast, hearing that you have 123 hrs on yours makes me think that mine was just bad from the get go. I never had a single problem with the clutch until it went out, went from 100% to 0% in a matter of minutes. I've got a Trail Tech Vapor waiting to go on so will have that hour meter soon, and a Pro Design Pro-Flow K & N Intake System showing up in the next day or two. Can't wait to get back out there!
 

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$400 is to much. Do it yourself for under $100. And you'll learn how it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
$400 is to much. Do it yourself for under $100. And you'll learn how it works.
Yeah I was looking at a Tusk Competition kit with Heavy Springs for $64 from RockyMountainATV, or if I wanna go OEM they have the Yamaha kit for like $114. I'm definitely not paying $400 for a clutch replacement, I can do that in a few hours. I just find it odd that this would fail after a few hours, makes me wonder if something was wrong with the unit and thats why it was available so fast after they said it'd be a two or three week wait and I got a call the next day. 😕
 

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Thanks for letting us know! I agree for $200 or less depending on the brand of clutch you buy, you can be riding again is just a couple of hours. Unless it's something major I find it easier and so much faster just to do it myself. I know they come with a warranty but for me I'd rather pay a little extra and get it done in a timely manner.
 

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Don't buy Tusk, they don't hold the power of a Raptor.
I like Driveline Performance from ebay. T-web says to use fibers from a 450 .
 

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The clutch pack I run in everything from stock engine to 120hp drag bike currently costs $120 from rockymountain
It’s 04-05 yfz450 oem fibers and oem steels, use 8 fibers.
Since the cover is off, scrape all gasket material off with a razor blade. Replace the gasket with a re-useable cometic, once you’ve scraped the oem off once you won’t ever want to again.
 
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