[Lucas English]

So we just got our hands on the new AEM EMS-4 that is built for quads and small motors.

We will have our drag bike running on it soon. Antilag,Data logging and the extra RPM will be a real nice touch for our drag bike.

The pricing is much more ATV friendly with the base ECU only being around $850.00

If we get it working well I hope I can sell it with easy wire harness and Raptor base map for around $1500

This will completely eliminate the Stock ECU.

 

[carpenter]

Right on Lucas thats a nice piece!
So can you explain the benefits of having this to us? And do you need a turbo to benefit from it?

 

[Lucas English]

Well the avg guy does not need anything like this. Mainly Turbo guys and some high hp all motor that dont want to go Carb to get the rev and extra power might want it.

If you are a serious racer that wants tune data during the runs the data logging will be a huge tool.

 

[ArcticWhite]

definitely watching your progress on this one.

 

[woofers67]

Do you know what the watt or amp draw is on the AEM unit?

I'd like to share some of our findings. The stock stator is a 3 phase alternator rated at 17.2 amps @ 5000 rpm. At idle it's 1 amp lower so I'm told


Stock the ecu and all the components it takes to run it takes up 8.5 amps, the stock fuel pump takes up another 2.5 amps.

The head lights take 5 amps.

So with the head lights off we have a free 6.2 amps to play with @ 5000rpm and 5.2 amps at idle

A walbro 155 lph in tank fixed plate pump takes 5.5 amp @ 45 psi and 7 amps @ 65 psi . The same pump in a 110 lph takes 4.9 & 6.5. There is a 85lph Phased plate that draws 2.6 @ 65 psi. Down fall it's $400.00



So that gives us with the 155 at idle 1.2 amps , the 110 at 1.8 amps. free to play with no head lights. And @ 5000 rpm 2.2 and 2.8.

A heated O2 will take 2 amps.
After market fuel controllers , ign. boxes ect. can rob an extra 2-5 amps.

This was the problem we run into with stand alone systems. The extra logging , sensors , & drivers rob too much power. At idle we were draining the battery and rev'ed up under boost the charging system could not keep up.

What looked like a tuning problem with stand alones and even piggy backs really turned out to be a current draw problem.

Maybe a low amp fuel pump , no air/fuel mounted could give you the extra amps needed to drive a stand alone in a drag quad.

I wish you the best.... Testing and RD is where it's at. Keep up the good work.

 

[EHSRACING]

Do you know what the watt or amp draw is on the AEM unit?

I'd like to share some of our findings. The stock stator is a 3 phase alternator rated at 17.2 amps @ 5000 rpm. At idle it's 1 amp lower so I'm told


Stock the ecu and all the components it takes to run it takes up 8.5 amps, the stock fuel pump takes up another 2.5 amps.

The head lights take 5 amps.

So with the head lights off we have a free 6.2 amps to play with @ 5000rpm and 5.2 amps at idle

A walbro 155 lph in tank fixed plate pump takes 5.5 amp @ 45 psi and 7 amps @ 65 psi . The same pump in a 110 lph takes 4.9 & 6.5. There is a 85lph Phased plate that draws 2.6 @ 65 psi. Down fall it's $400.00



So that gives us with the 155 at idle 1.2 amps , the 110 at 1.8 amps. free to play with no head lights. And @ 5000 rpm 2.2 and 2.8.

A heated O2 will take 2 amps.
After market fuel controllers , ign. boxes ect. can rob an extra 2-5 amps.

This was the problem we run into with stand alone systems. The extra logging , sensors , & drivers rob too much power. At idle we were draining the battery and rev'ed up under boost the charging system could not keep up.

What looked like a tuning problem with stand alones and even piggy backs really turned out to be a current draw problem.

Maybe a low amp fuel pump , no air/fuel mounted could give you the extra amps needed to drive a stand alone in a drag quad.

I wish you the best.... Testing and RD is where it's at. Keep up the good work.

that is a pretty healthy dose of knowledge there and a lot of testing thanks for sharing. Im about to find out how long a fuel pump and bare minimum last with no stator at all. Im pretty sure when the stock fuel pump is in play there should be adequate supply for this type ecu but with the big pumps its going to be questionable. You can build in fail safes so if the power level falls below a certain point that it shuts down. The injectors and coil depend on proper voltage to operate how they are supposed as well as fuel pump if they fail they slow down its kinda like a house of cards

 

[Mandy1]

well this is for haltech platinum 1000
"Power Requirements
Power Source: 8.6 to 16.5 Volts DC
Consumption
Haltech ECU: 300 mA at 12 Volts
Injector Load: Dependent on injector type. Approx. proportional
to injector duty cycle. (Typically 0.6 Amps per injector)"

the ecu will be no problem,the mayor draw will be the fuel pump, fan and ls2truck coil if you go this route. the ls2 suppose to consume 7.3a @ 5ms. on a drag race try to keep fan off and get the best battery you can found.i believe if you use this setup is for some kind of drag racing,so you will be no longer than 10-15sec. at full throttle in the 1/4m

 

[VelociRaptor]

Time to get serious

 

[woofers67]

I did not factor in the fan as it cycles as the O2 sensor does. A fan of that size could rob anywhere from 3-5 amps. Maybe closer to the lower side.

 

[Hurrikain]

Just a few thoughts,

This is not for the average dune bike to be sure. Our Drag bike has no lights, no fan, runs one injector and now will be able to lose the stock ecu, PC3, and dynatek and run everything from one ECU that barely pulls 0.3 amp (the Haltech that Mandy is talking about is a big box). We'd only run the O2 when tuning as we dont run closed loop control in our bike at any time. The MAP sensor pulls what stock does so thats a wash in my book. I think a dune bike can still run this just fine though as we have been able to max the stock stator and we were running A LOT of electronics all at once with the lights on. That was enough to discharge the battery at idle, so the lesson is dont run the heated O2, the actual wideband gauge, the boost control solenoid and the Tru boost guage with the lights on (or take those 2 off when you are done with them).

I looked at the service manual and it said 18.0 amp on the stator so I wonder if the 17.2 is at idle? Like Bob said, its all R&D and we'll see what we can and cant get away with

 

[dl700]

LIGHTS AND FANS???? a thought we were talking about going fast here??

good luck ENGLISH RACING>.... well be getting one for a lil 804 build that can use an upgrade!

 

[Fl. Woods Raptor]

Mo Money! but if it gets rid of the stock ECU, PCV, and Dynatek it would be well worth it. I'll be following this :thumbsup:

 

[dl700]

thats a lot of junk to get rid of!!

 

[Swiper]

Only one word is coming to mind right now.

"Finally"

 

[ArcticWhite]

Wow. I really need to do a current draw on my quad. I use the lights all the time, have dynatech ign, PCIII, wideband O2, separate MAP sensor for turbo kit, SPAL fan, and heated handle bars. I've got to be pushing the limits of factory stator.

 

[woofers67]

Wow. I really need to do a current draw on my quad. I use the lights all the time, have dynatech ign, PCIII, wideband O2, separate MAP sensor for turbo kit, SPAL fan, and heated handle bars. I've got to be pushing the limits of factory stator.

If your not having a problem I would not worry. Your lights are HID 2.5 to 3 amps, heated grips 3 amps, The fan and O2 both cycle , and the pc 3,dynatech,&gm3 bar are all minimal.

 

[Hurrikain]

Found some of the parts for the harness adapter over the weekend. Now I have to wait to see if the samples I am having sent will work

aaron

 

[Hurrikain]

Quick update.

We have been playing with this over the last couple of days getting everything to work with the bike's existing sensors and pickups and so far so good. It is now running on the EMS, so its the process of the building the basemap and moving back to actual tuning.

The draw on the system to run the bike is negligible at this point (including the heated O2 being on it) vs what we used to have running. While we are currently splicing it in, there will be a Plug and play harness adapter and possibly a full replacement harness as a future option depending on how it works out.

Having used this system in our street cars and drag cars, it will allow alot more flexibility for the tuner/owner as far as rev limits, ignition coil choices, injectors, launch capability and such.

Keeping the fingers crossed at this point

 

[Lucas English]

I am pretty excited. Have the bike starting idling and reving better then stock. We are now doing the full wire and clean up of the harness. Hope to have it on the Dyno tuning by early next week.

Lots of setup on the trigger stuff. Had to buy a scope to get it setup right.

 

[SUB454]

Nice work8)