[Danny660r]

Alright guys, this is my first time really wrenching on a bike so please answer with some detail. I bought an 01 raptor 660 a month or so ago, I saw it, loved it and needed it. But man its bin nothing but a headache ever since. The bike needed some love, the previous owner didn't take care of it at all. Right when I got it I pulled apart the carbs to clean it to find out the choke plunger shot, ordered it right away and cleaned the carb, but didn't touch the airflow screws at this time. Cleaned it up put it together and it ran good. But I remembered I didn't change the old gas out so I drained the gas, and all fluids to get a schedule going. Left the carb empty for a while to focus on aesthetics. Finally got the bike looking like I wanted it too so I filled it up. Noticed the carb was leaking bad! It was pouring into the airbox, and down into the manifold, instantly turned off the petcock which needs replaced too"already ordered". I'm assuming it's the float that's making it leak. Anyways I pulled the carb apart again and this time I did a more thorough cleaning. Ripped it all apart. Got to the mixture screws and I slowly tightened one till it seated to see many turns were needed. Got to the other one and right away I knew something was wrong cause it wasnt moving how it should. Long story short the tip of the needle broke off, can see it in the pic. Any help or ideas on a fix will be great. I tried pressing it down, but it started to form a lip so I stopped. Sorry for the book. Thanks in advance to anyone who gives their 2 cents

 

[DEZPERADO]

I tried pressing it down, but it started to form a lip so I stopped. Sorry for the book. Thanks in advance to anyone who gives their 2 cents

Try some penetrating lube on both sides. Let it soak for about 1 hour, then push.

Or, take a hair drier and let it run on high heat for 15 minutes to warm up the carb and expand the aluminum. Then push.

When cleaning don't mix parts, they are different from side to side. Check and replace any bad "O" rings. Use a small copper (speaker) wire to clean all body orifices followed with a spray cleaner. Use the "clear tube" method to adjust floats.

 

[Danny660r]

As far as the parts go I have them in an old clear tackle box labeled left and right, so on that part I'm good. I decided to do a full carb overhaul since I have it all torn down. Got a rebuild kit coming in. All of the jets and bolts looks like the thing has bin ripped apart a million times. I have an airgun so im gonna stray away from the speaker wire unless it's a must. But all the passages are clear so I think I'm good. Only thing stopping me is this damn broken needle.The float valve and needle were so gooked up that I dinged em up pulling them out, so I got a new pair of them coming in also. Hopefully thatl for the problem of it filling up the airbox and manifold. Speaking of that is there anything I should do to get the gas out of the engine? I tipped it to get some out. Idk if it's good or not to have it in there. I'm new to repairing boxes, but am mechanically inclined to do it. Just need a little guidance

 

[DEZPERADO]

If the carb body orifices gum up they normally won't clear out with just air. It's always best to use a fuel stabilizer for storage of more then a week. To get gas out of the cylinder, pull the plug, place a few rags over the hole and crank the motor over. Be extremally careful doing this, do it outside and have a fire extinguisher handy. Take a BBQ lighter or stick match, light it by the hole, and crank it again. It will draw the flame in, then whoosh, flame out. Some of the gas prolly got past the rings so a oil change would be necessary.

 

[Danny660r]

Man that's unfortunate I just changed oil n filter. I recon the filter is fine right? And will lighting it possibly cause any damage to anything in the cylinder?

 

[DEZPERADO]

The cylinder is used to fire all the time, with the plug out the compression is released out the hole, and the fuel is burned. This works good anytime the cylinder is flooded. I just want to impress the need for caution. I've never had a problem but never did it on a 660.

 

[Danny660r]

I left the bike sit out of frustration. I'll give it a shot tomorrow when I get up and around. Hopefully some of the gas will be evaporated by then so the proof wont be that bad. Now just a waiting game for all the carb parts to come. Although I still didn't decide what jets I want yet

 

[Danny660r]

I tried hear and penetrating oil and all that happened was the brass got hot and broke off flush. What would happen if I drilled it out? If the hole is slightly larger can I get a different airflow screw?

 

[DEZPERADO]

Take a quality (name brand) 90* pick and try wedging it down from the inside of the bore.

I wouldn't drill unless it's last resort.

 

[Danny660r]

I've bin picking at it for a good hour now, cant get it to sit on it right. I'm about to throw the carb at a wall. Never thought a single screw would give such a headache

 

[Danny660r]

I managed to finally get it out but the hole is now noticeably bigger... is that gonna be a problem? Starting to think I might need to get a new housing, only 25-30 ish bucks. Is it needed or do you think I'll be able to use it?

 

[Danny660r]

Here's a pic with a new screw in it, idk if thatl help diagnose if I need a new housing or now

 

[DEZPERADO]

I think more important is what the hole looks like from the inside. Shine a flashlight thru the bore, and look thru the mixture screw hole. If it's distorted I would be concerned.

Where do you get a 'New' housing from?

 

[Danny660r]

There's a couple on ebay I was looking at. 25 isnt bad if I do need to replace it. It's not distorted, but it is larger then the other side

 

[Danny660r]

So that's the difference between the holes, I'm assuming its junk, am I correct? Lol

 

[DEZPERADO]

The hole looks round and concentric. Did you defiantly make it bigger, or, is it possible that each hole is a different size to begin with? IDK 660 carbs, are the idle screws the same part number or maybe different numbers and sizes.

 

[Danny660r]

That's my thoughts, cause the hole looks perfect. I do know that the screws on each carb have different set amount of turns when fine tuning it. So it's quite possible that I'm in the clear. One carb is for idle to mid range, the other feeds fuel for the high rpms. I guess it's just gonna come down to me giving it a shot once the kit comes in. Just gonna hope for the best