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Wheel Tire Land vehicle Car Vehicle

I currently have a Dual empire Shorty exhaust, FC Intake, & PC5, I like the power it has now I don’t really need anymore for what I use it for, I just wanna know if blocking the AIS block off plate is something I should do or if it’s something recommended for it to run better? It currently runs great, and it’s mapped already just want to know if I should delete the AIS?
 

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I have the block off on my 19 and not on my 18 or 20 and they all pop the same and all have the same mods. If you listen closely when it's stock they pop you just can't hear it very well because they are so quiet. I myself wouldn't waste the money.
 

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I have the block off on my 19 and not on my 18 or 20 and they all pop the same and all have the same mods. If you listen closely when it's stock they pop you just can't hear it very well because they are so quiet. I myself wouldn't waste the money.
+1
I have blocked/capped reed valves/emissions on many sportbikes, and it cured the decel pop, as air was no longer being pumped into the exhaust.
So, I put the AIS(air injection system) block-off on my '20 Raptor too...and it pops just the same as before.
Zero change, and my 700 has stock exhaust and no engine mods.
In other words, the 700's AIS curculates Very little air through the system to start with.
 

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+1
I have blocked/capped reed valves/emissions on many sportbikes, and it cured the decel pop, as air was no longer being pumped into the exhaust.
So, I put the AIS(air injection system) block-off on my '20 Raptor too...and it pops just the same as before.
Zero change, and my 700 has stock exhaust and no engine mods.
In other words, the 700's AIS curculates Very little air through the system to start with.
I believe most of the lean popping on the emission 700s is actually the ecu rather than the ais. It definitely likes to cut fuel, especially at lower engine temperatures. I have an e85 build which is difficult to keep above 180* at times, below 180* the ecu leans out the fuel so much I’ve gotten detonation. Had to wire in a resistor to trick the ecu into thinking I’m 180* all the time.
 

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I believe most of the lean popping on the emission 700s is actually the ecu rather than the ais. It definitely likes to cut fuel, especially at lower engine temperatures. I have an e85 build which is difficult to keep above 180* at times, below 180* the ecu leans out the fuel so much I’ve gotten detonation. Had to wire in a resistor to trick the ecu into thinking I’m 180* all the time.
That makes alot of sense, as my stock engine 700 has all the cooling mods possible.
I take it places to ride when I get a chance, but the majority of my riding is a 10-15 minute ride at my house...where it rarely reaches over 180 degrees.
It takes very slow riding or idling to get the temps into the 200's. If I let it idle it will climb into the high 200 teens.
Even hard riding on hot days it stays 190's to single digit 200's.

Do you know what is in the ecu that is changing the a/f at low rpm?
It seems strange to me that something like that is still enabled after a dyno-tune.
 

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That makes alot of sense, as my stock engine 700 has all the cooling mods possible.
I take it places to ride when I get a chance, but the majority of my riding is a 10-15 minute ride at my house...where it rarely reaches over 180 degrees.
It takes very slow riding or idling to get the temps into the 200's. If I let it idle it will climb into the high 200 teens.
Even hard riding on hot days it stays 190's to single digit 200's.

Do you know what is in the ecu that is changing the a/f at low rpm?
It seems strange to me that something like that is still enabled after a dyno-tune.
It’s not rpm, it’s engine coolant temperature.
 

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It’s not rpm, it’s engine coolant temperature.
Yeah, my brain is in bike mode again.
I forget that the 700 just uses a PCV or equivalent a/f and ignition piggyback.
That there is no ecu flashing available(at least that I'm aware of), so there is no way to turn off or adjust a low temp sensor.
 

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Yeah, my brain is in bike mode again.
I forget that the 700 just uses a PCV or equivalent a/f and ignition piggyback.
That there is no ecu flashing available(at least that I'm aware of), so there is no way to turn off or adjust a low temp sensor.
Alba offers ecu flashing, not sure what all they’re capable of though.
 
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