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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone. Awesome site here and glad to be a new member. Looking for some help with my daughters 05 Raptor 350. I've spent about 2 hours on line here using the search option and I'm still stuck? Parked it last year after dune season and everything was good. Put it on a trickle charger for about 6 months, ran carb dry of gas etc. till dune season again. This January tried to fire her up and no luck! Long story short, it was cranking but wouldn't start and wasn't getting a spark so I tried to do my best to troubleshoot it and had no luck. Dropped it off to a local shop and was told that the stator was bad? The ignition coil and stator were tested while they had it. Just put a new stator it it this week and now I'm hearing the starting relay click with 12.9 Volts at the battery even with the start button pushed. I had the battery charged to 13.2 V. before testing again. Couple of notes: I'm using a small car battery fully charged, relay fuses are good, all electrical connections are good, I have been using my led tester (along with the schematic from the service manual) looking for 12v and have it at the following locations: starter relay from batt. the brown wire from the Starting circuit cut-off relay, red wire from the Main switch, I also have taken apart the on/off switch and cleaned it out. Can someone steer me from here? Thanks!
 

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Master of the Electron
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Welcome to the forum!

Short across the two large lugs on the starter relay with a big screwdriver (ignore the sparks)... if the starter does not immediately turn over, then either the battery voltage is dropping too much (not in your case, you measured while trying to start), the starter has failed, or the cable from the relay (solenoid) to the starter is not connected or has failed.

If it DOES immediately turn over when shorting, yet doesn't when you hear the loud CLICK from the solenoid, the solenoid is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just bridged the 2 lugs and no change. Still clicks but won't turn over. Looks like I'll be starter shopping. BTW, does pulling the starter require draining the case/engine oil? Thanks again!
 

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Master of the Electron
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Before replacing the stater, measure voltage at the lug on the starter while pressing the start button... what is it?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Right now I have 12.6 V at the relay lug supplying the starter motor labeled "B"with the key on. When I hit the start button I have 12.4V (0.2V loss) at the starter motor and at the starter relay lug labeled "B". My relay has 2-15Amp fuses in it and the fuse on one side labeled under the letter "B" has continuity/12V going across it when I hit the start button. The other fuse under or near the letter "M" has no voltage going to or thu it at any time? The pins or little metal fuse contacts look like they might be bent too far out as though they are not making contact with the fuse very good but when inserted it passes a continuity test when installed? I've tested that spot with my volt meter with the fuse out (as pictured) and the contact points aren't getting 12V either with or without the key on or start button pressed? Here is a picture with me pointing to the one fuse that doesn't seem to fit good:

[/IMG]
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also, I removed the starter yesterday and was able to spin the gear inside the case clockwise (?) but not CCW. So I'm guessing the starter gear is not locked and good? The starter motor shaft spun fine with no issues also.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, I'm back with still more problems. Just installed a new starter and stator and I'm not getting a spark but the engine will turn? I have 12.5 volts at the starter lug then 11.1 V when cranking it over, relay fuses are good, reverse and neutral lights work and pulled the spark plug and inserted it into the boot and cranked it and no visible spark (gap is in spec too)???? HELP.... BTW, I started another thread in the 660 forums but didn't post this update.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, back again with still no spark! Update: bike cranks over but won't start and I have installed a new starter, stator, spark plug and cap, ignition coil and battery. I have a spark plug tester and tried it last night and had no spark?? The only items left are the rectifier and the CDI. I have continuity in the orange wire from CDI to coil too and have unplugged the rectifier and tried to start it but still nothing? My after market stator tests: 578 Ohms at the pick up coil and 0.7 Ohms at the main or windings. Is it time for a new CDI? Heading out to the dunes next weekend and really want to get this thing running! BTW, is an OE CDI the only way to go or can I save some $ with after market. I see alot of after market with 1 year warranties too. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Found out today that the after market stator was wired incorrectly from some factory. The round snap connector wires (white) do not match the OE wiring. So, I paid $120 for the stator and another $90 for a shop to diagnose the problem and about 15 hours of my own time trying to trouble shoot the problem along with a couple of missed dune trips this year and a not so happy daughter. This was suppose to be a "direct plug in" unit.
FWIW, the name of the E-bay seller is Caltric at 421 W Palmer Ave glendale,CA. Now on to send my buyer feedback!
 

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Master of the Electron
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Sorry I haven't been copying your posts for a while... why did you replace the stator? The problems you were seeing were with the starter, not stator.

Can't tell you about specific 350 stator issues... but in 660's (with which I am intimately familiar), aftermarket stators regularly are DOA... unless there was a compelling reason to replace the stator, I'd put the original back in and see if spark returns.

EDIT: I missed your last post... apparently it was due to a bad stator. Don't know why, but a whole lot of aftermarket stators seem to be of somewhat inferior quality. Perhaps I should go into the stator rewinding business? It's not rocket science! Wonder if that could be a good retirement business?
 
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