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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 05 Raptor 350 that wont start due to the plug not having spark. Im following the troubleshooting guide, and the primary coil has .4 ohm resistance instead of .18-.28. Is this enough of a variance to completely kill the spark, or do I need to troubleshoot further? The secondary coil is right on @ 8.35k ohm.
 

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I have an 05 Raptor 350 that wont start due to the plug not having spark. Im following the troubleshooting guide, and the primary coil has .4 ohm resistance instead of .18-.28. Is this enough of a variance to completely kill the spark, or do I need to troubleshoot further? The secondary coil is right on @ 8.35k ohm.
This could indicate you have s short in the primay winding, did you zero the ohmeter before testing.............
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its a Fluke auto-everything, so yes :D

There is a guy parting out his Raptor 700 fairly close to where I live, any chance that has the same coil?
 

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Its a Fluke auto-everything, so yes :D

There is a guy parting out his Raptor 700 fairly close to where I live, any chance that has the same coil?
Not sure, check the part numbers through Yamaha...........to compare.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It doesnt match up...

I went to the dealer and checked a brand new coil, it was at 3.4 so I guess the manual is just wrong. After following the wiring back it turns out I have a bad pick-up coil. Going to run over to the motorcycle junk yard and try to find another one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
And still no spark. The coil pick-up was bad for sure, and I checked every wire in the entire ignition system for continuity. How do I confirm that the CDI unit is working properly?
 

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And still no spark. The coil pick-up was bad for sure, and I checked every wire in the entire ignition system for continuity. How do I confirm that the CDI unit is working properly?
On another bike.............
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Bought a new CDI and the good news is I finally have spark, but now no fuel (the plug is dry) :p

Im assuming its time to pull apart & clean the carb?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Cleaned the carb, put everything together, gave it a shot of starting fluid and it backfired hard enough to pop the carb off the cylinder. What did I do wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So...at this point, engine cranks and with the choke all the way open it will occasionally send a puff of smoke out the air intake.

If this was a car, Id say that the timing or cam adjustment was off. Any suggestions?
 

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5 days and nothing? I don't know why it's doin that but I hope somebody knows and replies soon. A non-running Raptor makes me sad.

{=,^(
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So the rocker arm arrived today and I went ahead and installed it. I also verified that the cam gear was at the mark when the piston was at the very top of the stroke (even used a screw driver in the spark plug to be 100% sire :p). Now it cranks over & over, followed by a massive back fire (gunshot level out the tail pipe). Whats next???
 

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So the rocker arm arrived today and I went ahead and installed it. I also verified that the cam gear was at the mark when the piston was at the very top of the stroke (even used a screw driver in the spark plug to be 100% sire :p). Now it cranks over & over, followed by a massive back fire (gunshot level out the tail pipe). Whats next???
My concern is why did the intake rocker arm break, I think you should check this, is the piston hitting the valve because the cam is out of time, or maybe the valve is sticking in the head...............
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It could have been out of time before, but now I am completely sure that the piston is at TDC aligned with the cam timing mark. I also observed the new rocker arm moving up & down smoothly before putting everything back together. I would think that if the actual valve broke I would have seen metal in the bottom end...
 

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It could have been out of time before, but now I am completely sure that the piston is at TDC aligned with the cam timing mark. I also observed the new rocker arm moving up & down smoothly before putting everything back together. I would think that if the actual valve broke I would have seen metal in the bottom end...
Just because the rocker moves freely doesn't mean the valve is sealing. If it was ever out of time and the piston and valve made contact, it will bend the valve. Any bend will keep the valve from sealing correctly and therefore no compression. No compression and it will never fire no matter what you do. You need to get a compression tester and see if it has any compression first.
 
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