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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a Works Connection Elite Perch clutch lever and it requires removal of the parkeng brake so I was just curious as to if there was anything spevial I need to do to remove it or if it's just unbolt and remove? I did order the Works Connection Parking Brake Block Plate, which replaces where the parking brake assembly connects to the rotor...

Thanks for any help in advance...
 

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Nope all you need is the block off plate. Remove the stock brake and line and just install the plate with the 2 new bolts and toss that p.o.s.!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nope all you need is the block off plate. Remove the stock brake and line and just install the plate with the 2 new bolts and toss that p.o.s.!!
Haha ok, wasn't sure if there were any fluids at all... Thanks for the info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Was just curious if I will need to drain the brake fluid to remove the parking brake assembly on the rear?
 

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Nope, just remove the parking brake at the caliper, then install the block off plate. Hardest part is removing the cable that goes to the handle bar lever, takes a little routing skills. The whole process is like 15 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nope, just remove the parking brake at the caliper, then install the block off plate. Hardest part is removing the cable that goes to the handle bar lever, takes a little routing skills. The whole process is like 15 minutes.
Can anybody back that up on no fluid? Because the block off plate to replace the parking brake assembly has a rubber seal...
 

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No fluid. Trust me. There's also a gasket on the stocker. It can be ruined and removed, it doesn't do anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No fluid. Trust me. There's also a gasket on the stocker. It can be ruined and removed, it doesn't do anything.
Ok thank you... And dad wanted me to ask what held the parking brake on besides inside the assembly (Besides the bolts)
 

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the only thing that holds the parking brake on the handlebar mounted lever are the bolts, either put them back in, or fill the holes with silicone so they don't rust. The only thing holding the parking brake machanism on the caliper are the bolts. I did this exact same thing to my Raptor 250 when I had one. It will save a little weight, make it look nicer and reduces a little rattling. If you are doing it for performance, don't waste your time. If you are doing it for dress up, more power to ya. Keep in mind, sometimes that parking brake comes in handy
 

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Can anybody back that up on no fluid? Because the block off plate to replace the parking brake assembly has a rubber seal...
Can't believe you wouldn't take the word of a senior member with over 180 posts. If I am on the board, then I have some experience with the Raptor. I had a 2008 Raptor 250 and did alot of mods to it, even competed with it. If your dad isn't sure, but members on this site give you recommendations, who you going to trust?

Here's a little background on me and my quad:

GYT-R head pipe
GYT-R silencer
GYT-R intake
GYT-R sprockets (15T front 37T rear)
GYT-R jet kit (150 main)
Comp nerf bars
DG rear grab bar
Tusk front push bar
Vito's 10.5:1 piston and stage II Cam
ITP MXR6 holeshot 19" front and 18" rear tires
Streamline steering stabilizer
Moose handlebars
Renthal grips
parking brake block off kit
shaved fenders
removed tail and head lights
modified plastic hood

I pretty much did everything you would want to do, minus Elka shocks. Extended a-arms and a wider rear axle aren't really neccessary IMO, that little quad handle pretty good and i never had issues with it tipping.
 

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Can't believe you wouldn't take the word of a senior member with over 180 posts. If I am on the board, then I have some experience with the Raptor. I had a 2008 Raptor 250 and did alot of mods to it, even competed with it. If your dad isn't sure, but members on this site give you recommendations, who you going to trust?

Here's a little background on me and my quad:

GYT-R head pipe
GYT-R silencer
GYT-R intake
GYT-R sprockets (15T front 37T rear)
GYT-R jet kit (150 main)
Comp nerf bars
DG rear grab bar
Tusk front push bar
Vito's 10.5:1 piston and stage II Cam
ITP MXR6 holeshot 19" front and 18" rear tires
Streamline steering stabilizer
Moose handlebars
Renthal grips
parking brake block off kit
shaved fenders
removed tail and head lights
modified plastic hood

I pretty much did everything you would want to do, minus Elka shocks. Extended a-arms and a wider rear axle aren't really neccessary IMO, that little quad handle pretty good and i never had issues with it tipping.
You pretty much did everything motor wise I want to do to my womans Rappy 250. Can you tell me how those mods worked, and if you would have done anything different now?
 

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Only thing i would have done different is:

left the stock foam filter in instead of installing the GYT-R filter
left the stock bumper and rear grab bar on
left the parking brake on

If I had intentions of keeping the quad I could have put towards better shocks by not doing the above mentioned things. If I had more knowledge and experience with quads I just would have never bought it. It was pretty quick for a 4 stroke 250, but it was just too small. I should have waited and put more money together and just bought a 2009 Suzuki LT400Z QuadSport. Mid-sized quad, electric start, reverse, liquid cooled, fuel injected, aluminum parts, upgraded suspension, wider stance, lower ride height.

Now I have a LT250R: 6 speed, liquid cooled, but unfortuanatley it's carbuerated. I can do without the elec start, it fires up real easy. I can also do without the reverse, it is pretty light. I would prefer fuel injection, I hate re-jetting carbs.

If I had a fuel injected Polaris 400 Scrambler 4X4, that would be perfect scenario. Then I would have a 387cc 2 stroke with automatic tranny and on-demand all-wheel drive on top of elec start, reverse, liquid cooled.
 

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With the motor mods you did, did it make a good bit of difference? I wanna do the Vito's kit and a full HMF exhaust. Its for my gf to ride anyways, and we do just trails. She wants me to keep it becuase she loves how lightweight and small it is. I just wanna make it quicker and give it more grunt.
 

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With the motor mods you did, did it make a good bit of difference? I wanna do the Vito's kit and a full HMF exhaust. Its for my gf to ride anyways, and we do just trails. She wants me to keep it becuase she loves how lightweight and small it is. I just wanna make it quicker and give it more grunt.
If you are just trail riding I woulodn't bother with the head-pipe, it is mostly for top-end hp. So long as you buy an exhaust that has a spark arrestor you should be OK. The piston/cam kit give you the most gains when combined with PnP, multi-angle valve job and stiffer valve springs. Again, these are all for top-end gains. You will want all the low-end torque you can get if you trail ride, that way you don't have to rev the snot out of it and you will have power available at low rpm. The stock head-pipe was designed to route the way it does for this purpose, low end tq. If you want to save money and get a little performance I would: uncork the exhaust, remove the air box lid (unless you plan on riding in water), and install the GYT-R jet kit. If you absolutely have to have something special I would: buy the exhaust, remove the air box lid, and install the GYT-R jet kit. I ride in the desert, so I needed upper rpm hp. Plus everything I mentioned is easy to do, piston and cam install is a little more complicated, if she isn't racing it's pointless IMO. I hope this helps, may not be what you wanted to hear, but it's the truth.

Sorry to keep avoiding your initial question. Yes, the mods did make a noticeable difference. Where I ride is whooped out, trails with lots of twists and turns consisting of loose sand, hard dirt and gravel roads. In a straight drag race lots of quads could beat me due to being a larger more powerful machine with wider gearing. When it came to the races in the desert though I could beat any LT250Z, TRX250EX, TRX300EX regardless of mods. I could also keep up with any light modded (bolt-ons) Raptor 350, LTZ400, TRX400EX, KFX400. I could also run pretty good with the stock 450 and up cc quads.

It is what it man, a small entry level quad, don't expect a fire breathing Banshee or Raptor 700 eater.
 

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i got rid of the parking brake , even cut and buffed the lever , looks really clean and one less thing to worry about !!!!
 

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If you are just trail riding I woulodn't bother with the head-pipe, it is mostly for top-end hp. So long as you buy an exhaust that has a spark arrestor you should be OK. The piston/cam kit give you the most gains when combined with PnP, multi-angle valve job and stiffer valve springs. Again, these are all for top-end gains. You will want all the low-end torque you can get if you trail ride, that way you don't have to rev the snot out of it and you will have power available at low rpm. The stock head-pipe was designed to route the way it does for this purpose, low end tq. If you want to save money and get a little performance I would: uncork the exhaust, remove the air box lid (unless you plan on riding in water), and install the GYT-R jet kit. If you absolutely have to have something special I would: buy the exhaust, remove the air box lid, and install the GYT-R jet kit. I ride in the desert, so I needed upper rpm hp. Plus everything I mentioned is easy to do, piston and cam install is a little more complicated, if she isn't racing it's pointless IMO. I hope this helps, may not be what you wanted to hear, but it's the truth.

Sorry to keep avoiding your initial question. Yes, the mods did make a noticeable difference. Where I ride is whooped out, trails with lots of twists and turns consisting of loose sand, hard dirt and gravel roads. In a straight drag race lots of quads could beat me due to being a larger more powerful machine with wider gearing. When it came to the races in the desert though I could beat any LT250Z, TRX250EX, TRX300EX regardless of mods. I could also keep up with any light modded (bolt-ons) Raptor 350, LTZ400, TRX400EX, KFX400. I could also run pretty good with the stock 450 and up cc quads.

It is what it man, a small entry level quad, don't expect a fire breathing Banshee or Raptor 700 eater.
I just want her to be able to keep up better on long trail rides. You bring up a good point though, low end torque might be better to have. I might just go for a HMF skip on and open the air box up with rejet.
 

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Like I said, if you just want a little more performance and not spend the money you can always just remove the resonator from the stock exhaust and leave the spark arrestor screen in.
 

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350 is still going to be faster in straight drag race, but the 250 should be able to keep up through 3rd
 
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