Raptor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
215 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I ran into an issue this weekend trying to get my autotune and PCV working right. Because this stuff is relatively new there is not a lot of first hand write ups on what to do and what to watch out for. I am putting this down so if anyone else in the future runs a search maybe this will help them out too.


O2 bung location:

I am sure by the time more people get this product there will be more locations but with what was asked from the directions and what I was able to gather from others as an ideal location (6" off the head versus 18" in some cases) I decided to split the difference and installed mine on the clutch side pipe on the inside of the pipe just aft of the heatshield right at the bend. This is about 12.5 -13" inches off the head and there is plenty of room there to conceal it on the inside of the pipe (I like stealth). The wires then can be routed up through the frame and come out right behind the gas tank.


Autotune wiring:

After trying to wire an independent switch to toggle on an off I spoke with Corrie a tech that Kevin from JVR recommended and he said that autotune will be better if left on full time so wiring according to the instructions to a "key on switch" 12 volt source would be fine. The autotune as it was explained to me makes fine tuned adjustments on the fly but the map is not adjusted until you go into the software and accept the trims. Once the trims are accepted the map is adjusted then all you do is send the NEW map to the PCV. So for those like myself that cannot read wiring diagrams fluently the best wire for this is actually located at the fuse box in the back of the quad. As suggested by Wobble from this forum the brown wire with the yellow stripe is the one you want for power. A simple wire tap via a splice connector or similar and your done. For the ground there is enough to reach to the negative terminal on the battery, done there.


Usage:

I found success with using a base map close to my mods and loading that to the PCV. Then with your laptop linked up. Go into the software and click on power commander tools and under CONFIGURE you want to select AUTOTUNE. Now with this hardwired into the bike (not using a switch) you first want to ENABLE the autotuner and click the box for time and set it to whenever you want to kick on. DO NOT click on the temperature box if you are not tapped into or using a temp sensor otherwise with out that info it will not turn on. Since this thing will be now running any time the bike is on there is no HARDWARE switch so DO NOT check that box either. Set the trim max/min levels and your done. Turn on your bike, let it warm, go for a ride trying to spiritly get through all of the gears and throttle positions. Try to keep the revs up on the way back to camp and avoid lugging the bike back to avoid inaccurate adjustments. Plug in the old laptop again and on the left click on the TRIM tab and you will see adjustments made in the fields. On the menu bar I think its MAP OPTIONS you can highlight autotune and select ACCEPT trims. It will tell you that the trims will globally affect the base map. Once that is done send that puppy on over and repeat. The idea is the more you adjust, the closer it gets to the target AF ratio for your bike. This target AF though may vary based on your mods so I would still consult with an expert on where this should be for your build.

The end.

I will post some pics when there is better light but for now I hope this helps someone in the future.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,302 Posts
You're welcome! That's what this forum is all about.

Nice write-up too. I'm sure that will help out many readers in the future. :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
So to understand what the tech said, that you should leave it in learn mode all the time?
I usuall do about 5 to 6 passes full throttle through all gears to 148 km/h :) . At the end of each run I would toggle learn off till I got back to the laptop. Is my method ineffective?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,432 Posts
So to understand what the tech said, that you should leave it in learn mode all the time?
I usuall do about 5 to 6 passes full throttle through all gears to 148 km/h :) . At the end of each run I would toggle learn off till I got back to the laptop. Is my method ineffective?
No thats a great method. You can do it with a toggle switch like you did or do it without one. I prefer to do it that way you said as it is the most accurate. what he is refering to is how to hook up the autotune unit itself. Not the learn mode.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,302 Posts
So to understand what the tech said, that you should leave it in learn mode all the time?
I usuall do about 5 to 6 passes full throttle through all gears to 148 km/h :) . At the end of each run I would toggle learn off till I got back to the laptop. Is my method ineffective?
IME, I found the hardware switch to be extremely helpful. When I'm fine tuning my map, I turn on the switch, make a few smooth runs through the gears. On the final run, I then turn off the switch at the top of 4th gear (before hitting rev limiter). This allows me to lug the bike back to camp without the autotune changing the trim levels in the lower RPM's.

I also only allow it to change the numbers by 5-10 in case anything goes wrong. This prevents the autotune from changing the numbers too drastically.

Eventually I got to a point where it wasn't adjusting the trim levels much at all. The bike was running VERY smooth. No popping, sputtering, etc. I then left the hardware switch on and let the autotune do it's thing....small adjustments for environmental changes.

I suggest saving your maps as you progress. This will help you go back a version or two if something should go wrong.

I still believe this is not a replacement for a proper dyno tune though. I purchased the autotune kit last year because I didn't have a dyno tuner close to me. Now that there is one, I intend on letting him work his magic on my new build. Well, after I get it as close as I can with the autotune of course. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Ok, thanks for the advice Redraptor and wobble. Im dabating on a tune as it was way cheaper than I thought, but the autotune is sure nice after comming off a dynatek fi box.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,478 Posts
IME, I found the hardware switch to be extremely helpful. When I'm fine tuning my map, I turn on the switch, make a few smooth runs through the gears. On the final run, I then turn off the switch at the top of 4th gear (before hitting rev limiter). This allows me to lug the bike back to camp without the autotune changing the trim levels in the lower RPM's.
;)
Dave, how are you wiring up a "hardware switch"? Right now I just use a quick disconnect wire to power the autotune (bullet connector style, just pull it apart) but I have heard that you can wire a switch directly into the A/T?
 

·
Speed's Best Friend
Joined
·
1,321 Posts
Its important to note that it takes awhile to get the map worked out. You cant just install it all, go around the block and your quad is tuned. It actually takes several sessions, short at first and eventually longer to get the kinks worked out. This is mostly because it only adjusts up to 20% per throttle position. You have to accept that trim and run it again, and again. You will see 80% changes that took 6 runs to make when your all done. Dont for get thats on top of the start map you chose that matches your mods.

Dont make the mistake I made. I installed a PC-5 and auto tune, wrode around the yard. Loaded the quad up and drove to meet 13 other guys in WV for a week of riding. I barely got out of the driveway, my quad was starving for fuel. It took a day to get it tuned well enough to ride with the others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,302 Posts
Dave, how are you wiring up a "hardware switch"? Right now I just use a quick disconnect wire to power the autotune (bullet connector style, just pull it apart) but I have heard that you can wire a switch directly into the A/T?
There are two wires on the autotune that can be wired to a switch. The instructions say which ones to use. Any standard automotive open/close circuit switch will work.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,478 Posts
It doesn't well work on the dyno, that's for sure...Didn't have a tuning link so I enabled the autotune and it didn't really do much but make it read lower on the dyno
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,478 Posts
Yep. I actually lost a bit of power with it's adjustments...so I'm reloading the base map again and doing a proper autotune run once I get a hardware switch tapped in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Wiring a switch or quick disconnect is a fairly easy task but itn's it just as easy to carry your laptop in a back pack while you are getting your map worked out (5 or 6 runs)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Well this thread just confused me and made me a little upset. I put the autotune on my bike last summer because I was told I could go anywhere any elevation and the autotune will make all necessary adjustments for me. HENCE THE WORD "AUTO". It sounds like this is the farthest thing from the truth?? So if I go up to north Utah from vegas I have to bring a laptop and accept changes when I get up into the higher elevations?? Thats really frustrating and defeats the whole purpose on why I purchased this thing.
 
1 - 20 of 48 Posts
Top