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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I finally got the GO part figured out (thanks to quite a few members on here) , but she stops like a 500 lb, 4' tall midget; with a cast on one foot.

What is the best FRONT brake setup you have personally used on your quad? I need to stop! I couldn't do a stopie (not that I really would want to anyway) if I tried. Its all I have just to slow down (I do have carpal tunnel in my right hand). My sons custom DRR stops on a dime and gives you $.11 back. You touch the lever and let go, FAST.

No rumors, half truths or BS please. I searched but didn't find much. Flame away.

Whats the best you've tried on your Raptor? Details please. Thanks.
 

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Lol, I can't help, but I do have to thank you for making me LMAO at your 500 lb 4 ft midget comment. Priceless!
 

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Master of the Electron
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I wasn't aware that the Raptor was capable of a stoppie...
 

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I do stoppie's just fine with the stock setup and stock warrior front tires.....maybe you need to bleed your brakes....
 

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Breathe my dust !
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How can't you do a stoppie ?? are you sure that you're not blocking the wheels ? lol

I do a lot of stoppies with the stock brakes and my raptor is a 2008 (still have the stock brake pads & rotor). I can even block the wheels on road with the stock brakes lol.

I have galfer brake lines though.

Anyway I'd recommand sintered brake pads with wave rotors.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Guess I'm never in anything but soft pack or sand...
 

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the brakes on a 700 are 200 times better then stock raptors. the 700's come with dual piston calipers that are also found on yfz450's. If you want to stop on a dime, you can upgrade to the 700/yfz dual piston calipers. they bolt on to the 660 knucles, all you have to do is cut some of the rotor guard away for clearnce. This is a huge upgrade for stopping, as i have done this to mine. you will have twice the clapping force, and the pad is roughly 3 times as big as well. I've been thinkin of going with a yfz450 master cylinder with the adjustable lever, but your stock raptor master cylinder will work just fine.
 

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Breathe my dust !
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Oops didn't saw that was in the 660 section...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Lol, I can't help, but I do have to thank you for making me LMAO at your 500 lb 4 ft midget comment. Priceless!
Your welcome. thought it was funny myself.

I wasn't aware that the Raptor was capable of a stoppie...
Me either. Lol

I do stoppie's just fine with the stock setup and stock warrior front tires.....maybe you need to bleed your brakes....
Let me just say that I build vehicles. Links in my sig.. The brakes are bled... but thanks anyway.

How can't you do a stoppie ?? are you sure that you're not blocking the wheels ? lol

I do a lot of stoppies with the stock brakes and my raptor is a 2008 (still have the stock brake pads & rotor). I can even block the wheels on road with the stock brakes lol.

I have galfer brake lines though.

Anyway I'd recommand sintered brake pads with wave rotors.
Thanks. Mines a 2005. I think they made a lot of changes in 06. Is the 2006+ master cyl compatible with my old junk? In my experience stainless braided brake lines can actually be less reliable in harsh offroad conditions. I sure ain't paying top dollar for some over priced SS lines that do nothing but fray. Braided SS lines are all hype IMHO. I can do a stopie in our rock buggy (at 4 psi), and there are all rubber lines throughout. Its 6K lbs.

Got a pad brand preference? EBC? What does the wave do other than reduce the surface area/ reduce heat? The rotors are cross drilled stock. I think I need MORE surface area.. Not less. Is it a larger rotor?

Its not fading, or getting hot. No outgassing, or smoke. I have some exp in this area, but I'm at a loss here. I want brake feel and reaction like the little DRR has. Is that too much to ask? My big ass can endo it on command. Its almost too touchy. The rappy is the opposite!

+1 might be the problem ;)
They are bled. Are spotless, and have been re cleaned/ scored just for chits and giggles. Driver (left) side locks down, but still takes a lot. The passenger side (right) wont lock down for anything. Even if it did work correctly, it didn't seem like it had enough force to reliably stop when I bought it yrs ago. Now its fast, and I drive like an asshat. I'm in it till I get in the brakes. And then its at the last second. I ride for the rush..

IMO, the difference between good brakes and chitty brakes is the "line" between not slowing down and locking up. Good brakes have a wide margin between the two.

The line may be collapsed, as it slowly got worse. Regardless, they sucked from day 1 compared to all of our other vehicles. The lines are getting replaced.. With stock rubber lines.

Are R1 or R6 brakes anywhere near compatible? I know jack about bikes, as I cant own one till my sons 18. Gotta stick around and be Dad till he's a man.. I can fab brackets, or whatever.. Are the pressures the same? Can I upgrade the master cyl?

I need some tech here. Thanks. I'll do my best to pay ya back
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
the brakes on a 700 are 200 times better then stock raptors. the 700's come with dual piston calipers that are also found on yfz450's. If you want to stop on a dime, you can upgrade to the 700/yfz dual piston calipers. they bolt on to the 660 knucles, all you have to do is cut some of the rotor guard away for clearnce. This is a huge upgrade for stopping, as i have done this to mine. you will have twice the clapping force, and the pad is roughly 3 times as big as well. I've been thinkin of going with a yfz450 master cylinder with the adjustable lever, but your stock raptor master cylinder will work just fine.
That's what I'm after! Thank you Sir! I have an adjustable ASV (C5) lever already. Is the yfz lever the same? Its adjustable throw and travel. Does the yfz master have more press?

What years of 700 or yfz do I need to look for?

I want to do this once. Hence this post. Stopping is the priority. Cost comes second to safety. Thanks for the tech!
 

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the brakes on a 700 are 200 times better then stock raptors. the 700's come with dual piston calipers that are also found on yfz450's. If you want to stop on a dime, you can upgrade to the 700/yfz dual piston calipers. they bolt on to the 660 knucles, all you have to do is cut some of the rotor guard away for clearnce. This is a huge upgrade for stopping, as i have done this to mine. you will have twice the clapping force, and the pad is roughly 3 times as big as well. I've been thinkin of going with a yfz450 master cylinder with the adjustable lever, but your stock raptor master cylinder will work just fine.
+1.. USE A yfz OR 2007 AND UP RAPTOR MASTER CYL///

just upgrading to the newer master cylinder is HUGE!
 

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any year 700 will work, i'm not too sure about yfz, but i'm guess all years, if not, look for 06 to 08. i know those years will work. the master cylinder should have the same pressure, but it has more capacity, and will be newer, so the seals won't be so worn down. look on the classifieds for 700's being parted out, or you can also try yfzcentral. if all else fails, you can get em on ebay all the time
 

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Ive got 700 calipers with dual brake lines and its awesome. I do know the dual line kit helped...pull felt tighter and didnt have to squeeze as hard to get it to stop...its a real nice setup, even with oem pads. Like someone said above, all you have to do is trim the plastic rotor guard a bit and ur set.

Calipers and cut guard


Dual lines
 

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A stock 660 setup should be able to lock up the front wheels no problem.

There are several things you can check. Is your master cylinder putting out enough pressure? Are your brake lines blocked? Are your rubber lines worn and causing expansion when pressure is applied? Do the calipers slide freely on the slide pins? They may be froze and trying to stop on only one pad.
 
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