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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, long story short, wrecked my quad and swapped over a bunch of stuff, had to unhook the break line on left side, i put it all together and bled that side, (about 10-15 times now) I did the other side as well. When driving i pull the break and the right front locks up, the left does not, and it seems as if it pulls just slightly to that side of course..

I had my sister pump it about 3-5 times and hold, and i undid the bleeder, and so on plently of times now i would imagine? The handle is very tight and firm just seems to be not doing it equally, any insight? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
just went to autozone n got a stupid one man bleeding kit to try again, and still no luck, no air seemed to be coming through the hose but it was a dumb cheap kit anyway, doesnt even have a one way valve. Right wheel def locks up and pulls right when applying front brakes
 

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mmmm, not sure why it's doing this. But if I was in your shoes I'd take the calipers off and clean them up, check the pads are ok etc etc.

Also, when you say you had to unhook the brake line, is it possible the line is damaged and restricting flow?? just a thought.

Hope you can sort it.

Ez
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have no idea, the wheel stops but there not in proportion. The right does it quicker, ive tried every way of bleeding i can think of. I took the res. cap off and broke the bleeders on both sides, and let it run out in tubes and didnt see air in any of it (i went through about 3-4 res. full.) Quite irritating, line looks fine, i will check the caliber i guess but this is frustrating the hell out of me, wasted another day on this

I simply unhooked the line to change out the upper a-arm thats it nothing too major
 

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so it's unlikely the hose is damaged......beats me. Is it possible the disc (rotor) got contaminated during the bits change over?? guess you've probably thought of that though.
 

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Ill tell you what mine was, long story short i ended up spraying brake fluid everywhere then i had the same problem as you the fix was to replace the pads as the fluid got on the right one, problem solved hope this also works for you
 

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Honestly my only thought is too replace the pads. also if the calipers were used, maybe left left is starting to go bad internally.
 

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check for leaks, check for oil on the pads/rotor, if you change the pads do both. I just replaced my brake lines with the streamline 2 line brake lines and i got the brake bleeder kit from harbor freight and it worked great. i pumped it a bunch of times till i filled the cup thing that it comes with it. once i filled that up i pumped the bleeder then the brake leaver. just make sure it feels kinda hard when you pull in the brake lever and you may want to do both sides at the same time this way you know you'll be good. this is the bleeder i got that worked good. http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-92474.html
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Im thinking it may have been a bad caliber (unlikely??) Or perhaps some fluid got dripped on the pads/rotor. I swapped the caliber with a yfz450 i have, and it almost wanted to do the same thing again, but then i took it up and down the street several time, and hit the front brakes, even drove a bit with the front brake on. Seemed to straighten it out, stops nice and even now
 

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something was wrong with it or maybe the brake pads needed to be bed in again. I know my wolverine brakes locked up on me so i just replaced the pistions and seals the i swaped out the wolveirne master cylinder for a 700 one and its working good now. I just have to go back and do a final bleeding since at the time i used the pro motion bleeder and that didn't work to good. When i did my 2 line brake lines on the raptor i got real dark brake fluid out of the master cylinder which was kinda weird so i dont know if you should have to put new brake fluid in it every so often to keep it fresh.
 

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This is EXACTLY the same problem I'm having only reverse sides. I crashed, bent the right upper A Arm, and removed the line to change it out. Now It pulls to the left. The left locks up almost immediately and the right slowly brakes.
I've changed the fluid, bled the crap out of them, cleaned it on a Mr. Monk level and it still persists to pull to the left.
 

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There has been old threads on here with similar problem, one side front lock up. But that was like 2 years ago and I cannot remember what the findings were. Please keep this thread alive, as I will be doing my brake lines and a-arms soon. This problem has always been in my mind since I read it about 2 years ago and now it pops up again. I will do a search in the meanwhile.
 

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Oops, I think this might be that thread I was talking about! I see it is almost two years old!
 

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It's nice sometimes to revive an old thread rather than start a new one about the same thing. :)

I rebuild my raptor starting with a bare frame last weekend. I had some blending issues which turned out to be a microscopic leak from the caliber banjo. No fluid appeared to be leaking but when I pulled the brake in and released I could hear air being sucked in or out or something. I ended up annealing The copper washers and bolting the banjo back on and torquing up acording to the manual. Problem solved. :)

To anneal copper (re-soften) you heat it up till it just turns red and chuck it in cold water. The gas ring in the kitchen it the ideal bit of kit.
 

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It's nice sometimes to revive an old thread rather than start a new one about the same thing. :)

I rebuild my raptor starting with a bare frame last weekend. I had some blending issues which turned out to be a microscopic leak from the caliber banjo. No fluid appeared to be leaking but when I pulled the brake in and released I could hear air being sucked in or out or something. I ended up annealing The copper washers and bolting the banjo back on and torquing up acording to the manual. Problem solved. :)

To anneal copper (re-soften) you heat it up till it just turns red and chuck it in cold water. The gas ring in the kitchen it the ideal bit of kit.
As for the annealing, you are spot on. :thumbsup: Even brand new copper washers need annealing, as copper work hardens. As new copper washers are made, they also work harden in the fabrication process. So annealing is rhe best thing you can do to make that perfect seal and save your threads. Good advice, thanks for the reminder!!!
 
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