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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The rear outside pad will wear down in one ride while the inside one is fine. This tells me the caliper isn't floating properly, but it is. We just put a new rotor, new caliper, new pads, and a new master cylinder on it. The parking brake has been removed. The whole rear braking system has new parts, and it eats the outside pad very fast like its stuck on. Tires spin freely when not pressing the brake. Anyone have any ideas on this one?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Can you post some close up pics? Definatly something wrong. Your sure the pads are installed correctly? I had to file the metal pad where the brake pad itself is attached on mine. Just the sides so they would move freely. They are EBC and work great just the paint on the pads made it hard to fit so i filed it off.

So the outside pad the one closest to the right rear tire just eats away rubs constantly on the rotor. Wow just make double sure they seat properly in the caliper. Last thing i could think of is the master cylinder is too old and just wont work properly or the brake cable needs some lube or to be changed. If you jack the rear wheels up does the axle move sideways kind of shimy when you pull and push on the tire even a little? That could be it actually makes sense if the carrier bearings are worn out.

Im just trying to find some ideas for you to check and get this fixed. Hope my ideas help. Check the axle for sideway movement first to see if its that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Can you post some close up pics? Definatly something wrong. Your sure the pads are installed correctly? I had to file the metal pad where the brake pad itself is attached on mine. Just the sides so they would move freely. They are EBC and work great just the paint on the pads made it hard to fit so i filed it off.

So the outside pad the one closest to the right rear tire just eats away rubs constantly on the rotor. Wow just make double sure they seat properly in the caliper. Last thing i could think of is the master cylinder is too old and just wont work properly or the brake cable needs some lube or to be changed. If you jack the rear wheels up does the axle move sideways kind of shimy when you pull and push on the tire even a little? That could be it actually makes sense if the carrier bearings are worn out.

Im just trying to find some ideas for you to check and get this fixed. Hope my ideas help. Check the axle for sideway movement first to see if its that!
I'll go check for axle play (good idea), but I hope thats not it because I just replaced the carrier bearings a couple months age. What baffles me is the whole rear braking system is new and they are all OEM parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just ran to the garage and checked, no axle play, no hub play, all solid.
 

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Brake pads sit corectly? Can you post a pic?
 

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Ok so no play in axle. Good deal then. now cable assy. Makes me think your cable might be rusted and your brakes stay crusted on. Its an older model so i wouldent be surprised if you stomp on them and they stay on until the bike rolls again and chews up the right pad looking at it from the back of the bike. You sure and certain you put everything back the original way it was. You can double check with the manual and if you need it give me your email in a PM ill send it to you right away.

Ill keep moitoring your posts and try to help you the most i can. Cant be burning up pads this quickly its insane and costly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Not sure what you mean by "cable", they are hydraulic. The master cylinder is new, and so is the caliper. The caliper is not a Nissin brand so maybe its a reverse engineered copy from China? IDK. But all parts are new. In a few hours of trail riding the new OEM pads I put on that morning cooked.

Have a look.
 

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Ya your right about the hydraulic DUH!!! Let me check the manual...If the rear pads cooked the rotor must of warped also. That could be your problem also.

Im still looking for an answer to your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the help. I'm going to get out the micrometer and inspect and compare the caliper to the old junk one I have.
 

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Take the new rotor out and place on flat surface to see if it warped from the heat. I know its a pain but better than buying brakes all the time.
 

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Sorry i couldent be more help still id like to know if you get it fixed and how you did it so i can help others in the same boat as you.
 

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Did this problem start right AFTER you replaced the carrier bearings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I figured it out. I had to de-Chinese the reverse engineered Chinese caliper we got off eBay. The inside pad was pressing against the bracket/plate that mounts to the carrier when the brake was applied. I should have taken a pic for you guys to see. When I put the two brackets (the bracket that mounts to the carrier that the caliper floats on) side by side, it was obvious they were different. I just used parts from both calipers to make a working one. Freaking eBay, I was under the impression it was a OEM caliper. Thanks to all who offered help.
 

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Glad its resolved. Those crappy chineese products arent cheap for nothin!
 
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