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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, today I was adjusting my valves and you can see where this is going. It was completely my fault, I thought the torque was 14.5lbs per inch and it is 10 so needless to say I twisted the head off of the tappet adjusting screw (what ever you call it). Anyway now that I am through cursing and throwing stuff I have to find out how to fix it. Can someone tell me if this can be fixed easily. What are my options. I know sparky and someone else both do head work and anyone else that knows let me know what you think. If I have to pull the head maybe I am better off having it ported if the whole assembly has to be disassembled and reassembled. Anyway any input on my options is appreciated. And to think I was going to go riding this weekend. Damn :mad: :mad: :'(
 

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oh man do I feel for you

There are some guys here who know these motors pretty good. I would say bring it too a good local shop and let them put it back together.

Make sure no broken pieces of metal got anywhere!

Sorry for your misfortune, I've done bonehead moves enough times myself. I invested in two high quality torque wrenches, one inch pounder and one foot pound unit. I use them all the time, money well spent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am laughing at myself now just thinking about it, better than crying I guess. I am not afraid to do the work depending on what it is but want to find out from someone who knows beter than I was my options are and how far I have to tear it down to replace/fix this.
Pretty boneheaded move on my part considering I even used my torque wrench when i ome of the time I do not. I was trying to play by the rules. Oh well I am glad I broke it trying to do it right instead of broke it doing it "my own way". Oh well, no use crying about i now 8)
 

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Thats not a hard fix. First off get the new Valve Adjusting screw and nut on order. The part number for the little screw that broke in two is 5XT-12159-00-00 and is less then 2.00. The nut might be saved if you remove it from the piece that broke off, but its less then 2.00 also so the new part number for the nut is 90170-06128-00.
Get atleast one of each around 4.00. You can see the nut and screw number 11 and 12 in the pic.


In order for you to remove the broekn screw you will need to remove all the tension off it where it contacts the top of the actuall valve. After that is done you might be able to put a pick on the broken part and move the pic in a counter clockwise motion to try and remove it. With out pressure on the broken screw from the valve it should come right out.

If worse comes to worse and you cant get it out you can remove the whole arm which is number 9 in the pic. Now all this work is easier then installing a cam and most cases you need to remove that arm to install a cam anyways. So dont think this is alot of work. If you can install a cam then you can do this. This can also be done in the bike and not require you to remove the engine or head from the bike. Just remove tha cam cover and the cam gear. Then you can get to the pin that hold the arm in the head. The pin is number 10 in the pic. If you slide out the pin then you can remove the arm (#9) from the bike and work on that on the bench. Worse come to worse and you still cant get the screw out. You can buy a new arm for less then 50.00. But it shouldnt come to that. Hope this helps.
 

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VIP AKA Corn Dog
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Can't you use a pair of needlenose pliers or something like that to back it out the hole? The whole hole is threaded, and you should be able to grab it from between the valve and rocker arm, and turn it out. If not, remove the valve cover, pull the rocker arm out, and you can drill and easy out the old stuf. it should be really loose since there isn't any tension. Trust me, this isn't that bad of a break, 2 hours tops I'd say. Try snapping the dipstick tubing off in the block of a 327 when your 16 and it's you only mode of transportation; now THAT'S a bitch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You are the man! Thanks for the help. how would I relieve pressure from the valve on the screw to try and get it out without taking the arm out?

Although I was starting to think that I would have to pull the head so I might as well get it ported and +1mm valves, and while it is off there is no better time to put in a piston so here comes the cp 12 to 1, and while I am that far in I might as well look at a stroker crank, I mean I am already in there so why not.

Funny how you can talk yourself into something. When life (or your bike) gives you lemons....make more hp!!

Thanks again, sounds pretty simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Zebradog said:
Can't you use a pair of needlenose pliers or something like that to back it out the hole? The whole hole is threaded, and you should be able to grab it from between the valve and rocker arm, and turn it out. If not, remove the valve cover, pull the rocker arm out, and you can drill and easy out the old stuf. it should be really loose since there isn't any tension. Trust me, this isn't that bad of a break, 2 hours tops I'd say. Try snapping the dipstick tubing off in the block of a 327 when your 16 and it's you only mode of transportation; now THAT'S a bitch.
I was going to try the needle nose approach but needed to get away from the bike until I relaxed a little! You know how that goes I was about to tear the whole thing apart and burn it (not really but I felt like it). :grin_nod:

I hear you on the dipstick. I just finished rebuilding a 350 for my 69 camaro, put it in, hooked everythign up onlything left to do was drop the distributor in and dropped the distributor retainer clip/nut down the hole!!!! If I had a 10 story building I would have thrown myself off of it!

Thanks again for the help and I will give it a try and see if I cant get it out easily.
 

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Put it at top dead center to releave any pressure you can, you might be able to get a pair of needlenose channel locks in there, or bent needle nose pliers in there and turn it out the top side; that would keep you from removing the entire thing. Even if that won't work, remove the valve vover completely, and pull the rocker assembly. I don't really see a reason to pull the entire head, I mean if you want to drop another 2k in the motor for a broken $4 part, right on, but I think you can fix this in a couple hours, and still ride it this weekend.

I would try the easiest pliers way first, don't be too forcefull, but it should come out pretty easily. If you have a spring compressor, you could use it to compress the spring a little and relieve the tension to get it started. If nothing else, remove the valve cover and go that way, either way, you have to remove the valve cover to pull the head I believe.

After you get it out, wither way, use a magnet and rub all around the springs and in the bottom to pick up any metal shavings that may have come off when the nut broke; the more powerfull the magnet the better.

Hope that helps you out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It does, thanks a bunch. I was also thinking if I cant get needlenose in there to drill a hole in the top of the screw and then JB weld a small rod to the top and back it out that way. What do you think? I am not sure if that bond would be tight enough.
 

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dont waste your time with JB wield, its good shit but not the right application. drill a small hole and use an easy out! you can get easy outs in all sizes and there cheap. always good to have arround. it shouldnt be that tight though. good luck
 

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It should come out pretty easy, but don't be drilling with that thing still on the head; BAD NEW right there. All those shavings, in your engine, you will be upgrading soon after. It really should come out easily. Another thing about the JB weld is what happened if you weld it to the rocker? Now your back to square one. You should be able to get it out with a pair of hemostats, they use them in surgery, like little needle nose pliers, but more of a clamp. You can get them at most auto parts stores, Harbor Freight or grab a few of them from the hospital like I did, no garage should be without a few pairs of them in different sizes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the help guys! I put it at TDC and but could not grap onto it with needlenose or anything. pressed on it with my thumb and BINGO it turned right out!! Thanks again for all of the help, I appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
defenitly easier, feel a little silly for thinking it was something major now that I have the piece out!! :crazy: Oh well just glad that is all that it is.
Thanks again everyone.
 

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yea without any pressure on the broken screw and threads not being messed up, i figured it would com out easy. They stay lubed up and theres no rust or damaged threads, so when its only the screw and no head it usally turns very easy. Glad you got it handled. Now just head on a down to the dealer (or order online) and get the 4.00 parts you need. Your set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
None of the dealers or suppliers around or that I called had the part all had to order from Yamaha of course so that parts were not spendy but to ship it next day was. Nothing like $8 worth of parts (I got 2 sets) and $40 for shipping. Oh well what are you going to do, after all I was getting ready to dump about 2k into this thing as of last night!
 

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YellowistheFastest said:
Oh well what are you going to do, after all I was getting ready to dump about 2k into this thing as of last night!
Well i see your 2k part. 2k is for HP tho and 40 shipping is for well nothin. Go for the 2k. LOL
 

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Zebradog said:
Try snapping the dipstick tubing off in the block of a 327 when your 16 and it's you only mode of transportation; now THAT'S a bitch.
HAHA Simple, run a 5/16-18 tap right in the broken tube. As it atarts to therad, the broken piece begins to turn also. As it turns, lift slightly. I just did it to a mustang for a friend of mine. Actually I have done this alot.

Congrats on the rocker fix. Simple. huh?
 

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Well,this same thing happened to me today as I was tightening the lock nut after adjusting my valves,I also did it while using a torque wrench.It really pissed me off because this was a cheapie that i had picked up @ Harbor Freight and I didn' really trust it,I had the wrench set @ 7 lbs when it snapped.I all ready ordered the parts,but I still haven't got the broken one out yet I had to chill out for a while and will probally go after it tommorow.I bought a pair of bent needle nose that I' m hoping will work after I try the thumb method :thumbsup:.
 
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