[zunooo]

Hello,

I am new to this site, but am no foreigner to atv riding. I have been getting Ideas for a Raptor build and want to know what some of you think, as well as know what some of you have done. I am an aggressive duner and trail rider, but no racer. But I would like to show up a guy or two in a hill climb if the occasion presents itself. This is the build I woud want to do:

LRD 686 cc Stage 2, but with a 11:1 piston (I don't like buying race gas)
Edelbrock single carb kit w/ K&N Air filter
A programable ignition controller (Possibly Dynatek)
After market pipe (have not decided on one yet. LRD, CT, possibly LTE Dual.)
Hinson Clutch with basket
+2 A-arms from Alba
Fox Floats front shocks
+2 swing arm (T-Dub Racing)
PWR Radiator
TCS Revalved for sport Rear Shock
Plus some cosmetic and chassis Odds and Ends

So what do you guys think? What are some of your builds? Thanks for all the info and help

-zunooo

 

[bgmac]

Dont get the Edelbrock carb, its not worth the price. Get a set of FCR carbs.
Also if your looking for performance gains, your going to want to get a dual exhaust setup.

 

[pewterpecker]

You're going to find the answer to most of your questions if you use the search function... this has been covered numerous times recently.

 

[russ]

Definately stay away from the Edelbrock carb for a built motor, they don't flow enough CFM to feed a healthy Raptor. Also, probably skip the LRD pipe and consider a Sparks or the CT you mentioned for a single, or the LTE's if extra cash is weighing you down. 11:1 Wiseco piston at 100.5, 101, or 102 mm bore (my advice is only go 102 if you need to, the power gains come from the compression ratio bump more than the displacement bump and if you go 102 right away, you can't bore it again later) with a stage 2 cam/valve springs and a mild port job with the other stuff you have listed will tear up most of the bikes you'll run in to. I'd avoid the ignition unless you plan on replacing the rod while you have the motor apart, the extra RPM's from an aftermarket ignition will shorten the life of your stock bottom end.

Consider TCS front shocks as well, the floats are awesome, but for the money you save, you could buy some other goodies for the rappy. I just did TCS fronts and rear on my rappy and it's the single best mod I've made. I did the ZPS style front and rear, that lowers the ride height and makes the bike much more stable.

Also, make sure an axle is on your list, if you go wider up front, go wider out back too.

For clutch stuff, the GYT-R kit is very popular with the people on here, good stuff for a good price. I run the GYT-R clutch/springs in a Moose basket and have had good results.


Welcome to the site! :thumbsup:

 

[rady]

a will make a little question about the clutch....mine clutch are over and i need buy i newone and i want buy the Gytr/hinson all i need buy is the discs and springs and basket or i need buy too the pressure plate and inner hub?
http://www.hinsonracing.com/store/index.html?model_id=59&orig_make_id=4
whats parts numbers i need buy?

 

[raptor_rider]

check out http://www.raptorforum.com/index.php?topic=14449.0

I have just asked the same sort of question.... a few weeks back... :thumbsup:

 

[yogib]

You need a plus 4 swingarm for the Raptor.Still fine in the woods.2 inch over isnt even worth wasting your time.Ditto on staying away from the Edelbrock.Stockers that are jetted and setup right are fine.Mine for example have 165,170 mains,2 3/4 out on air screws,27.5 pilots,dyno jet needles 3rd clip (center) and stock springs with one coil cut off.Probably have to rejet once I do motor work. And I am having the throttle plates knife edged for better flow. Cheap and works good.Pro-flow K/N no lid just a outerwear lid covor.Heard the Looney tunes exhaust work great for big bore and high compression and cammed motors.