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Would it be possible to edit Freez's original post of this method so that the pictures refelect in there again? I know its a lot of work, but quite often people are asking for it.
That's the plan, just don't have time to get to it tonight. When I can I will re-host the pictures, insert these pictures into the post, credit the pictures and link to this post as well.
 

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To the top.

Sent from my GT-P7500 using Tapatalk 2
 

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Gauging float

In the service manual this procedure is shown it even gives a Yamaha part number for clear tube tester but all you need is a clear plastic tune about a foot long and a tape measure very simple procedure and the service manual on cd can be purchased on eBay for around $10 and you can print out the page you need to look at while working. Hope this helps. P.S. this is the same procedure used on any bike or quad
 

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rubber snorkel

Thanks guys.

Ok, as they said, the rubber snorkel I refer to is the rubbery peace of tuber that fits onto the airbox lid. Remove it, it just drops power output. It has a single clamp, loosen it and pull it off. If you look inside the dynojet kit, they tell you to cut some restrictions out of it. Don't bother. Liek I said, just rip it off, and put it away.

Then the "tubes". I don;t knw what is the right word to descrive them, but remove the lid, and turn it upside down. Look at the way the air is comming into the lid. You will see there is two seperate passges or "tubes". Where they suck in clean air, they are wide, but the tube narrows towards the end where they lead into the airbox, assuming the lid is on. Those tubes restric airflow, so cut the tubes open. Meaning, take all the plastic inside the airbox lid out, so those tubes disapear. You will still end up with the two passges leading to the outside, of the lid, but don't mess with those.

I will try and get a puctire for you guys to see what the modified airbox lid looks like.

But, if you want the best power, the best is just to remove the whoel lid, and install a air cleaner wwith a billet adaptor. Thwen you don't need to bother with the lid.

I liek to install Outerwears airbox clovers on all the quads I modify. Thos eairbox cover will stop mud and water splaches from gettigng into the airbox. These things let air thru, but keep the other stuff out. I still advice peopel to be carefull aroudn water, but the cover works well.

Then, if your bike is already jetted, and you do the carb and intake mods, you most likely can go up a jet size on each carb.

Then, the 3mm.

Like they said, find the place where the carb and the float bowl comes together. Then with the carbs upright, or normal mounting position, measure 3mm up from the split.

A easy way to find 3mm, is to look at the carb. Find the split. Then if you look at it, and you move your eyes up a tad, you will see it has a shoulder, which goes over the float bowl and hold it it place. IF you go a tad futher up, you will see form the shoulder there is a 45 degree angle or support. Where that 45 degree angel stops, or joins up with flat body of the carb, that is 3mm. Mark where the shoulder and flat side meets, and you make sure the fuel level is level with that mark.

Hope that clears up a few things.

These mods have been tested over and over again. I personally have done around 50 raptors with these mods and the owners love it.

While you are working on the bike, make sure the valve gaps are checked and set correctly.

To put this into perspective. If you drag race over 300 ft, and struggled with a close competitor, these mods will give you 2 to 3 bike lengths over the other guy. You will feel the increase instantly, without even taking it to a dyno.
Hi,

I was trying to do this mod on my bike. Is this the rubber snorkel to remove? if yes should i remove the snorkel and also the rubber cable that connect to the engine above the filter?
Please see the image for reference

Thanks
 

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Yes you need your hose that goes the engine otherwise all kinds of junk will get into your cases, Put a filter on the end of the hose, Most local autoparts stores have them, The outside diameter of the hose is 1/2. K/N make a few that have a inlet to go into the hose part number K/N # 62 - 1100. UNI make a nice little breather a lot run it, Hope this helps.
 

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Yes you need your hose that goes the engine otherwise all kinds of junk will get into your cases, Put a filter on the end of the hose, Most local autoparts stores have them, The outside diameter of the hose is 1/2. K/N make a few that have a inlet to go into the hose part number K/N # 62 - 1100. UNI make a nice little breather a lot run it, Hope this helps.
ha ok, so i remove all the cable and the snorkel and put the filter on the engine in the place that the rubbert cable is connected now?

but should i remove all the rubber inlet to the filter or only that part that is indicated on the picture? do i put the filter directly on the engine hoose? and when i go to water and clean the bike does the filter can get water and mud over it? is there any issue to get in water trought the filter?

thanks
 

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My wife & I both just bought Raptor 660s ('02 & '04) and I know hers was already jetted but I think mine is still stock. We live in CO so home is at 5000'+ elevation, and the mountain trails we plan to hit are 8500'+.... so I need to get mine 'right' and tuned. I'm going to read this post (and the stickies!) thoroughly over the next few days, but really appreciate the effort and especially the pictures in these write-ups.
 

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Check from post 210 on in this thread.
 

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Hello all, new member here. I have an 04' Raptor that I'm in the process of rebuilding and was wondering what the proper jetting would be. 100.5mm Wiseco 9.9/1 Comp,open airbox and Sparks X-6 exhaust. Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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Thanks for the reply badlukrappy. I called Sparks and they recommended 148/150, 25 pilot. Does this seem right? I rebuilt the carb and replaced the needles already(Moose Rebuild kit), how many notches down is stock?
 

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that sounds like dyno jet mains( jets).... which, yea sounds close...or get mikuni mains from JetsRus, and get 160, 165 mains....-u might wanna get a few diff sises of mains to mess around with...

u want an aftermarket needle, its thinner so it lets more gas flo through the carbs at low to mid RPMs...


stock notch is third one down on the needle, if ur using needles that are the same size as stock, u may want to rise teh needle a notch or 2...
 

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Previous to this rebuild I had a 146/148 (Dynojet) and 22.5 pilot and it ran well but after reading on here I was worried I may have been running lean. I would assume that the needles in that kit are similar to stock, I have them set on 2nd notch down. Do you have a source for the aftermarket needles? I plan to order the jet kit set they have on Jetsrus
 

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i've attached a transparant hose on the carb to check the 3mm line. Note that the carb is not adjusted, touched or anything (just stock). i just wanted to check where the fuel line comes on a stock carb. To my suprise the fuel is coming exactly to the 3mm mark :eek:

Does this mean i shouldnt touch/adjust the float or stopper or anything ??
 
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