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I cannot get the pictures to display. Is anyone else having this problem?
 

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The original pics were gone fast, I had a set backed up but I just got an email from them that said they wiped all my pictures because I didn't sign up for some premium account. I think I have them backed up but it might take some work to find which one of my external backup drives they are on.

I'll see what I can do but I won't likely have time until I get back home next weekend. Apologies for not realizing these were down. I see a couple other threads I was using them for are having the same problems now.
 

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I just did this on my Raptor this past weekend and its quite simple. Attached are a few pics that I would liked to have for mine but alas.
I initially set both floats at 15mm and checked them with the clear tube. My left (primary) carb was spot on at 3mm but my Right (secondary) was too high so I had to set that float to 14mm and then it turned out perfect.

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I just did this on my Raptor this past weekend and its quite simple. Attached are a few pics that I would liked to have for mine but alas.
I initially set both floats at 15mm and checked them with the clear tube. My left (primary) carb was spot on at 3mm but my Right (secondary) was too high so I had to set that float to 14mm and then it turned out perfect.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I couldn't add pics to that last post so I'll try again


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I work on a few bikes with the Mikuni CV carbs ,
Here's an additional refinement to the clear tube fuel level reading setup. I added a Tee with a drain valve so any air bubbles can be easily and positively flushed out and the level re-checked several times to observe flow rate and repeatability. Also after the bowl drain is closed, the loop can be emptied cleanly. Obviously the second picture isn't a Raptor motor, but the procedure is the same. (Yamacati Raptor 904?)
 

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SUPER TWEAKER
Tired of burnt and tortured fingers adjusting those low speed carb needles ?
Found the perfect adjuster for a whole $7. and it works on all the CV carb'd rides in the motor pool.
Have a search for: "GIVERARE 33 IN 1 Professional Screwdriver Kit"
got mine from Amazon. Amazon.com: Magnetic Precision Screwdriver Set with Flexible Bar, Extension Bar, Magnifier,GIVERARE 33 in 1 Professional Screwdriver Kit with 30 Bits, Driver Kit for iPhone, iPad, Mobile, Laptop, PC, Electronics: Home Improvement
You can clamp the bit holder end with hemostats or Vicegrips or whatever and it rotates inside.
Pretty precise, the little ball keeper makes counting off turns easy.
I am not an endorser - just pretty happy with a good cheap item that really works..
Jim
 

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When the carbs are the right way up, the floats are hanging fully opened. When you start turning the carbs to face 90 degrees down, you will notice the floats move and suddenly pause. It will pause for a little while, but if you keep turning it to make the openings face down to the ground, they will move again. You need to find where they pause, and keep it there. This position is where the floats touch the needle valve pin, but not compress the needle valve spring. Measure between the split (place where the float bowl and carb comes together) and the of the float shoulder. It should measure around 14 to 16 mm. The image is showing you how to hold the carb in the right position. It shows 13mm, in the picture, so try make them slightly larger.

There is no spring between the float and the needle valve!

Am I missing something here?

Difficult thread to read through, as photos were deleted, and then added latter.

But there is no spring between the float and the needle valve.
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I couldn't add pics to that last post so I'll try again


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Here's another picture of how to trim the fuel stop tabs on the floats.
This allows them to open further, and prevents starving for fuel at high rpms(which isn't always a problem, but can be, more so on more highly modded engines, but, it doesn't hurt anything either).
I've done at least 4 sets this way without issue.
The bottom one is trimmed.

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13mm to 15mm is also the Range that will get you 3mm of fuel in the clear tube.
You may have to adjust each float several times to get them right too.
The fuel level in the clear hose should be even with the line where the float bowl meets the carb body(it is too high in the picture).
The carbs must be upright, but not completely verticle to measure them, there can be no pressure from the float tangs on the needles, otherwise they will begin to close off the needle seats(restrict fuel flow).

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