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Discussion Starter #21
The lid, even with massive holes do not flow as good as an open airbox without the lid. The Airbox cover will flow better, and you get protection from water and mud, where a lid full of holes will allow water to get into the airbox.
 

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The way I'm reading it you say the fuel in the clear tube should sit 3mm above or higher than the mating surface of the bowl while the FSM clearly shows it to be 3-4mm below the float chamber mating surface.

I currenly have it above/higher and it still runs like crap but that may not mean much.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The Yamaha manual is not correct. Trust me I tried their settings and it is basically impossible to get to their recommendations. You have to cut the float and modify it to get to their recommendations.

Also the manual recommends doing the float high without the clear tube method. If you use those recommendations, you come close to the 3mm above mark I am referring to.

I believe the manual has typing error and it should have read 3mm ABOVE.
 

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can someone clear this up.. wouldnt this mod just cause the quad to run richer?? and my manual says to set the float hight 13mm from the bowl deck. isnt 14-18mm pretty drastic? :3question:
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Guys, the manual is wrong. This mod will not make the bike run richer, in fact it might actually lean it out a little. I have personally done this mod to something like 30 different raptors, and all of them gain HP on my dyno. A stock raptor gains around 2HP, just by having the float level set up right. Hundreds of guys on the web have tried these mods, and if done right, they all come back and tell me they felt the gains.

Just do exactly like I explain and you will be fine.

I spent hours and hours trying to figure out on how to set the carbs up as per the manual. the manual itself contradicts the setting. Stop messing with that stupid 13mm recommendation. The clear tube method is the final answer, so don’t even bother with the other method the manual explains. Just set it to as per my instructions and the bike will perform. Guaranteed.
 

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I have just one question on this, maybe more by the time I am done typing!! I have done this mod, I did it at the same time as re jetting for my CT exhaust and proflow K&N. Dumb move I think, LOL. I am a little high on the right carb, maybe 2mm high. Question is " after running in the top end of quad I seem to bog and start back firing badly (running out of fuel is my guess ), could this 2mm high on the right carb be causing my carbs to run dry? Once I stop for a split second it starts right up or straightens itself out and is good to go again. It does not do this if I stay down from the top end. I checked for fuel flow from the petcock and flow is good, I also tried blowing through the fuel inlet hose as the directions say but it's hard to know whats normal. Any help would be great, Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #28
The float mod, if done right should take care of the carbs running dry. Make sure you cut the little stopper at the rear of the float at a 45 degree angle. That mod will open the floats a little further and allow more fuel to get in when you need it.

Look at the picture below to see what I mean.

 

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Alright, thanks. I will have to check thing out and see, that's the one step I wasn't to sure about. The whole mod was pretty easy other than the hitch of the carbs running dry. :thumbsup:
 

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I can't seem to get my left side carb set properly my right side carb is set 3mm above the split but my left side carb won't go below 6mm above the split, i've done the float mod, adjusted the float tang about 20 times varying in between 13 to 16mm as per instruction, heck i even switched the floats installing the properly set right side float into the left carb, with no results. my fuel level just won't go down? what am i missing? please help. the snows almost melted here. thanks.
 

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Check the needle valve for an obstruction, could be just about anything up there. Blow it out really good, check the seat of the needle valve aswell. Wait!! is it overflowing? thats high. Is the needle valve sitting between the tang and the retainer properly? Adjusting it is pretty easy.

I have seen the tang area crack before and the floats get really messed up but usually overflow then. This makes it very hard to adjust it, could be a tiny crack and very hard to see.
 

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Thanks for that info!! Good to know
 

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10mm above the split & it will start to overflow? well it's not that high yet. checked the needle valve for obstructions & it's clear the valve seat is in great shape also.i also got out the carpenters level & checked the quad on the stand making sure it was level. made some minor adjustments & i'm only 2mm out now, but still cant seem to get it , can't see any cracks or damage around the tang yet i've been very gentle with it.when you say retainer you mean the wire mechanism that hooks the needle to the tang? does the needle have to be rotated a certain way to work properly i thought it just hung from the tang?
 

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blud686 said:
10mm above the split & it will start to overflow?
That is the height of the overflow pipes, the only reason I measured it was some time back people were questioning Freeze about his height of 3mm above the split, the manual says 3mm below, and I had my carbs apart.
Go with Freeze's recomendation.
Freeze has been descent enough to share this info with many people in a number of site's.
Thanks Freeze
 

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gotcha, when you reinstall the needle valve onto the tang does it matter which way the needle valve is facing? are the little little ears on the tang supposed to contact the bends in the wire that holds the needle valve on ?
 

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No I don't think it makes any difference which way it is facing.
 

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You might not need to but I'd tune it to get the most out of that air flow, get rid of the lid all together :thumbsup: I am very happy with this, I have a full exhaust though. Not sure what you have
 

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This isnt a easy procedure :eek: even for the mechanically inclined. I had my carbs on and off nearly a dozen times and still only have the fuel level at even with the float bowl seam.I think that if you were to give us the measurements for when the floats are at full droop.So as to know how much to shave off the little plastic stop tab.And when the carbs are upside down and level so as to know what the metal tabs are to be bent to. That would give a more consistant and accurate way to set the floats.knowing exactly when the float begins to touch the needle is very hard to tell.You cant get a clear view of the needle to tell when it begins to touch the spring loaded needle. :help:
 
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