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This is mine pulling it out to 3mm. Doesn’t even look close to your bowl. End when I adjust the tang down that much it basically has no play.
That is a blurry photo, but that's not 3mm, more like 300mm
And 3mm is the fuel level in the clear tube Above the carb bowl top line.
You need 14-15mm where you're checking at.
 

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02 raptor 686 k&n alexx exhaust
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Discussion Starter #104
that’s the issue we’re at right now. I’m using a regular size ruler that inches on one side and mm on the other. From your picture with the caliper that looks a lot less than 3mm on the ruler I have. And my floats looks way out more than yours.
 

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that’s the issue we’re at right now. I’m using a regular size ruler that inches on one side and mm on the other. From your picture with the caliper that looks a lot less than 3mm on the ruler I have. And my floats looks way out more than yours.
Yeah, you're reading the scale wrong.
You're trying to make adjustments 10 times bigger than what they should be.
 

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Discussion Starter #106 (Edited)
Had a freakin caliper somewhere and I can’t find it. Off to harbor freight. Appreciate all the help.
ya like an idiot I was going off of just seeing mm on the ruler and it’s actually cm with mm In between.
 

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Discussion Starter #107 (Edited)
I feel like an ass now adjusting these with the caliper. I was way off. Lol putting it back together now. 14mm with that caliper was right on point. The one that wasnt leaking was spot on. Adjusted the left side was way to low. Let you know how it goes in a minute.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
right side float is dripping a pinch. Gave it a shot and nothing. Just cranks and cranks. Played with the choke and nothing no pops just compression of it cranking over. I double checked the wires around and made sure everything was on.

I did use the orings from the previous intakes because the ones it came with weren’t even the same size

not sure what I’m missing when the carb was the only thing I’ve messed with.....
 

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Did you replace the needles(that hang from the float tangs), and the seats they go into(they look like brass buckets pressed into the carb bodies, you need needle nose pliers to pull them out), as well as the o-rings around the seats/they deteriorate and no longer seal.
They are all part of a rebuild kit.
If the needle tips or seats wear enough, or the o-rings are no longer sealing, the fuel will continue to flow through and flood the bowl.
 

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Discussion Starter #110 (Edited)
Yes I changed all orings. Put it in a ziplock inside the garage. Once the intake got here took it out adjusted the floats and mounted them on the new boots. I just connected a spare plug and I do have spark. What should I check tomorrow? Cutting the red wire is only if you didn’t have spark correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #112
I used the needles and seats from the other carb I had. The ones that were in their were all nasty and had corrosion. That’s when I had cleaned everything out and changed all the orings.

I’m assuming valves are the next thing to check? I have these feelers, will they work?
 

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Yes, those feeler gages will work.
You'll need .003 to .007

You Need to recheck needles and seats if one carb is leaking
 

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Discussion Starter #114
Yes, those feeler gages will work.
You'll need .003 to .007

You Need to recheck needles and seats if one carb is leaking
Maybe didn’t push them in all the way? Figured once I could screw it in would be good. I did have to tap them lightly into place. Pretty sure the feelers don’t go that low.
 

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Maybe didn’t push them in all the way? Figured once I could screw it in would be good. I did have to tap them lightly into place. Pretty sure the feelers don’t go that low.
Only You know the answer to that.
The seats are a tight fit too, and it is a good idea to put vaseoline on the o-rings when installing them, that keeps them from tearing or being pinched or damaged when you push the seats in.
You said you "figured you could screw it in and they'de be good"
If you are reffering to the float bowls possibly pressing the seats in when the bowls are screwed down, No, that does not work.
Make sure that you have not damaged or broken either air/fuel screw's tip either.
Once again, unless you have dirt blocking a passage, the float bowl leak is from an improperly set float, or the needle, seat, o-ring, or all 3 are worn or damaged.
You Need to start over.
 

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Discussion Starter #118
even after rebuild she’s always fired up first start no issues. Before waiting on the boots I literally had it all apart changed all the orings. Cleaned and blew air threw. And put it in a ziplock until the boots got here. Has to be carb related because the mikuni is the only thing I’ve changed. Even with the cheapo carb fired right up and everything worked electrical wise.
 

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even after rebuild she’s always fired up first start no issues. Before waiting on the boots I literally had it all apart changed all the orings. Cleaned and blew air threw. And put it in a ziplock until the boots got here. Has to be carb related because the mikuni is the only thing I’ve changed. Even with the cheapo carb fired right up and everything worked electrical wise.
Yep, I've been doing this a long time, go by the service manuals, pay close attention to details...and sometimes I Still screw up something that I have to go back, find, fix, and wonder how the heck I missed that.
And that happens to ALL of us at some point.
I think when this is fixed you'll have a much better understanding and ability than when you started.
 

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Discussion Starter #120
I was gonna say f it and have someone tune it. But I’ve already come this far and learned so much why not keep it going and just finish it
 
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