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Absoloutely!
Plus, last thing you need is someone else making matters worse.
And, once it runs good, that will be a rewarding feeling.
Carb understanding
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Plus, last thing you need is someone else making matters worse.
And, once it runs good, that will be a rewarding feeling.
Just did the valve clearance. Adjusted everything to spec just in case. On to redoing the carb.
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Were they out of spec?
Exhaust side needed a little tightening.
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That's strange, as they get tighter/Less clearance with wear, not loose/bigger clearance.
My friend that helped initially did the valves. He used the other feeler so I just tightened to the .127 on all of them. He tends to say he did something and didn’t.
think chapstick will work for the oring?
think chapstick will work for the oring?
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Chapstick will probably be ok.
And .127 ??
I don't remember the exact spec, but it's around .003 to .006 intake
and .005 to .008" exhaust, ballpark.
If you set them all to .127 , it's Not going to run...it's going to backfire and blow the carbs out of the boots again.
.005 I was reading the bottom number. Hopefully wasn’t starting because one of the pilots had something in it couldn’t see threw it.
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or do you mean .127mm?
So you set them all to .005 then(.127mm=.005"), which is ok.
So you set them all to .005 then(.127mm=.005"), which is ok.
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Gotcha, you're good then
fresh spark plug, fresh gas, cleaned out tank, and still no start. Last night I went through the no start thread. Took out the plug it had spark. Disconnected the rectifier last night and still just turns over. Any suggestions?
It’s started and ran before all of this with some power. With the Mikuni it’s started twice when I got it and it was mildly cleaned, missing the pilot screw oring. It idled super high header glowed and I shut it off. Since than I rebuilt the whole carb and cleaned.
It’s started and ran before all of this with some power. With the Mikuni it’s started twice when I got it and it was mildly cleaned, missing the pilot screw oring. It idled super high header glowed and I shut it off. Since than I rebuilt the whole carb and cleaned.
I just read somewhere quad mentioned if you take the cover off you have to readjust the tensioner. Is this correct?
I had taken off a month ago to seal an oil leak.
I had taken off a month ago to seal an oil leak.
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If you removed the timing chain tensioner, you must reinstall it by the manual.
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You are fighting too many problems at once. STOP, regroup and attack ONE small issue at a time!
You're worried about float levels when your pilot jet was plugged!!! You are dashing around looking at carbs for a no start when you don't even know if your cam timing is correct.
Begin at the beginning, check everything, verify proper cleaning, assembly and operation of each subsystem prior to moving on to the next!
If you don't COMPLETELY understand something (which you keep proving) then STOP and ask questions about THAT subsystem - quit assuming.
I'm not being critical here, but you're 7 pages in yet worse off than when this started, I believe because you are making (or being led to make) too many unfounded changes based upon unproven assumptions.
Let us help you fix this in a linear, logical progression - not in the uncoordinated shotgun fashion that it's following so far.
You're worried about float levels when your pilot jet was plugged!!! You are dashing around looking at carbs for a no start when you don't even know if your cam timing is correct.
Begin at the beginning, check everything, verify proper cleaning, assembly and operation of each subsystem prior to moving on to the next!
If you don't COMPLETELY understand something (which you keep proving) then STOP and ask questions about THAT subsystem - quit assuming.
I'm not being critical here, but you're 7 pages in yet worse off than when this started, I believe because you are making (or being led to make) too many unfounded changes based upon unproven assumptions.
Let us help you fix this in a linear, logical progression - not in the uncoordinated shotgun fashion that it's following so far.
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I don't disagree...except the part about being lead to.
I am trying to help, but it's been difficult trying to keep up with it all.
Tag...you're in
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Wasn't implying you, Six - just a lot of talk about 'from reading' and 'friends', and from us too, etc. The issue is one of not following a single problem to it's conclusion and then getting lost in the confusion of multiple issues.
FIRST - make sure the carbs are SPOTLESS and re-assembled correctly!
2nd - verify that the cam timing is correct, ignition timing matches and tensioner is correctly adjusted
3rd check and/or adjust the valves
4th - check for spark
5th check for fuel delivery to carbs
THEN mess with the carbs:
1) make it start, even if it won't run well.- use starting fluid if you must
2) make it run at high throttle, under load (main jets)
3) make it run at mid-throttle, under load (needle jets and needles)
4) make it idle and decel from full throttle (pilot jets and fuel screws)
I'm sure I've missed something, but this is the basis of troubleshooting problems to conclusion... sometimes the symptoms will tell you if you can skip some of these steps; sometimes they won't.
Keep asking questions and we'll try to help, but we've got to treat these one problem and one fix at a time or the clues simply get lost.
FIRST - make sure the carbs are SPOTLESS and re-assembled correctly!
2nd - verify that the cam timing is correct, ignition timing matches and tensioner is correctly adjusted
3rd check and/or adjust the valves
4th - check for spark
5th check for fuel delivery to carbs
THEN mess with the carbs:
1) make it start, even if it won't run well.- use starting fluid if you must
2) make it run at high throttle, under load (main jets)
3) make it run at mid-throttle, under load (needle jets and needles)
4) make it idle and decel from full throttle (pilot jets and fuel screws)
I'm sure I've missed something, but this is the basis of troubleshooting problems to conclusion... sometimes the symptoms will tell you if you can skip some of these steps; sometimes they won't.
Keep asking questions and we'll try to help, but we've got to treat these one problem and one fix at a time or the clues simply get lost.
Sorry guys my fault I’m super scatter brain and have my two kiddos to attend to 24/7. So I tend to jump the gun. Apologize and appreciate the help from everyone.
little rundown. So with previous carbs was able to get it running ran up and down the street through most gears, in the neighborhood because I didn’t wanna get in trouble. My friend mounted the head and did the timing so on that part I assumed and am assuming it was on timing because every start besides with the Mikuni it fired right up roaring first try. Carb and intake boots are the only thing I’ve messed with since than. The only other thing I did was take the rocker cover off prior to the Mikuni getting here to try and stop a leak I have. I got the Mikuni cleaned it impatiently and mounted it. And it did start up but with the idle super high, and was on for maybe two mins when my header was glowing so turned off. Found that the pilot screws didn’t have the oring. So ordered those. That’s when I was having issues setting the floats because I’m an idiot and can’t read right. So fixed that. Installed it and wouldn’t start. Took apart again to clean again and found the pilot jet with something in it. Cleaned it again. Changed the plug, gas, cleaned the tank.
I read the no start thread. So I connected another spark plug I have and I saw arc coming from it when I put it on the header. I pulled the rectifier plug and tried and still the same thing.
and I’ve been connecting the battery charger to the battery
little rundown. So with previous carbs was able to get it running ran up and down the street through most gears, in the neighborhood because I didn’t wanna get in trouble. My friend mounted the head and did the timing so on that part I assumed and am assuming it was on timing because every start besides with the Mikuni it fired right up roaring first try. Carb and intake boots are the only thing I’ve messed with since than. The only other thing I did was take the rocker cover off prior to the Mikuni getting here to try and stop a leak I have. I got the Mikuni cleaned it impatiently and mounted it. And it did start up but with the idle super high, and was on for maybe two mins when my header was glowing so turned off. Found that the pilot screws didn’t have the oring. So ordered those. That’s when I was having issues setting the floats because I’m an idiot and can’t read right. So fixed that. Installed it and wouldn’t start. Took apart again to clean again and found the pilot jet with something in it. Cleaned it again. Changed the plug, gas, cleaned the tank.
I read the no start thread. So I connected another spark plug I have and I saw arc coming from it when I put it on the header. I pulled the rectifier plug and tried and still the same thing.
and I’ve been connecting the battery charger to the battery
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So, if you have continuous strong spark there is no reason to unplug the rectifier... that's only done if you DON'T have spark.
As long as you have spark and the starter cranks the engine over at a good speed you know that battrery, solenoid, CDI and starter are fine.
So, you have spark. But cam timing? You pulled and replaced the head cover without removing and properly resetting/reinstalling the tensioner. Timing may be off... tension is almost guaranteed to be dangerously high.
Proper tensioner reset and cam timing check MUST be your next step.
As long as you have spark and the starter cranks the engine over at a good speed you know that battrery, solenoid, CDI and starter are fine.
So, you have spark. But cam timing? You pulled and replaced the head cover without removing and properly resetting/reinstalling the tensioner. Timing may be off... tension is almost guaranteed to be dangerously high.
Proper tensioner reset and cam timing check MUST be your next step.
About to start pulling things off in a minute when the kids go to bed. Ok so take tensioner off, pull the rocker cover, verify cam is in timing and than install tensioner back on correct?
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Remove the tensioner, reset the tensioner pawl (compress it all the way) and install it in the case - BUT don't put the center spring and bolt in until the head cover is installed and tight...
BTW, you can check cam timing via the flywheel inspection hole and the rocker covers - watch for both valves to just fully close (check that they have a bit of clearance) and verify that the I is in the flywheel hole (not the H)... if you're lucky you won't have to pull the head cover - if no luck, then pull it and verify normally.
BTW, you can check cam timing via the flywheel inspection hole and the rocker covers - watch for both valves to just fully close (check that they have a bit of clearance) and verify that the I is in the flywheel hole (not the H)... if you're lucky you won't have to pull the head cover - if no luck, then pull it and verify normally.
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