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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
03 660R. Anyone know how to test a cdi unit? The bike won't start. It will start as normal if I jumper between the red w/ black tracer and the yellow with/ black tracer from the middle plug of the cdi unit. I believe one supplies power to the cdi and the other energized the start relay.

Tx
 

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Master of the Electron
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Does your neutral light work properly?

What you have done (with the described jumpering) is bypass the starting enable circuit - the yellow/black should only be at 12V when the CDI sees the neutral switch at ground or the clutch switch at ground. So, perhaps, the CDI is not seeing these.

Unfortunately, the jumpering that you did often destroys the output transistor in the CDI for the yellow/black circuit... so even IF the neutral circuit is working, the yellow/black will often no longer be energized, now that you've shorted it to 12V.

DO NOT arbitrarily short across CDI signals unless you truly know what you're doing.

SO, if you have damaged this transistor, your choice is now twofold - replace the CDI OR make a wiring mod that will bypass the CDI's start enable and instead use the clutch switch to provide 12V to the relay - are you game? If so, I'll give you a link to the simple wiring mod to enable the starter when pulling the clutch switch (to bypass a blown CDI transistor).
 

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Master of the Electron
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The neutral light works regardless of the damage to CDI - the CDI just can't generate the 12V for yellow/black any more, once that transistor is blown.

It kind of becomes a chicken/egg thing... once you've shorted 12V to the yellow/black it no longer matters what the original problem was - it is now a blown transistor that will prevent starting.

Anyway, here's the link to the fix:

http://www.raptorforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=779197&postcount=30

Please feel free to ask any questions you may have about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I spoke to the local Yamaha dealer about my problem and he said the cdi is either good or no good. He seems to think that if the bike still runs after startup that the cdi is okay. Just trying to figure out if I should get a new one or go with the above mentioned fix.

Thanks
 

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Master of the Electron
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The answer is simple - I know what I'm talking about, he doesn't - nor do most dealer techs understand the electrics at all. I am an electrical engineer with 25 years experience who designs things a hundred times more complex than the CDI... He's a salesman or a mechanic with little or no education, most likely; certainly none in electricity and electronics.

You chose which to believe - I don't care. My repair has many people up and running. His will require that you buy a new CDI (FROM HIM?)... or something else (that will NOT fix the problem) - where is my alterior motive? We sure see where his is.

Maybe somebody will chime in and tell this newbie that I know what the hell I'm talking about?
 

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The answer is simple - I know what I'm talking about, he doesn't - nor do most dealer techs understand the electrics at all. I am an electrical engineer with 25 years experience who designs things a hundred times more complex than the CDI... He's a salesman or a mechanic with little or no education, most likely; certainly none in electricity and electronics.

You chose which to believe - I don't care. My repair has many people up and running. His will require that you buy a new CDI (FROM HIM?)... where is my alterior motive? We sure see where his is.

Maybe somebody will chime in and tell this newbie that I know what the hell I'm talking about?
Take his word over the stealorship, they will tell you somthing is broken just to hose you for a bill even if it isn't broken.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Nor did I mean to sound so insulted - had a bad night, I guess. Glad you could make it work again.
 

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Does your neutral light work properly?

What you have done (with the described jumpering) is bypass the starting enable circuit - the yellow/black should only be at 12V when the CDI sees the neutral switch at ground or the clutch switch at ground. So, perhaps, the CDI is not seeing these.

Unfortunately, the jumpering that you did often destroys the output transistor in the CDI for the yellow/black circuit... so even IF the neutral circuit is working, the yellow/black will often no longer be energized, now that you've shorted it to 12V.

DO NOT arbitrarily short across CDI signals unless you truly know what you're doing.

SO, if you have damaged this transistor, your choice is now twofold - replace the CDI OR make a wiring mod that will bypass the CDI's start enable and instead use the clutch switch to provide 12V to the relay - are you game? If so, I'll give you a link to the simple wiring mod to enable the starter when pulling the clutch switch




The link isn't showing please need to know what to.do
 

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Master of the Electron
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You need to start a new thread and explain your issues and history in detail.
 

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I did but no help yet I have a 2010 raptor 250 and I just bought it so I put new battery new solenoid and push button isn't working. The only time I can get push button to work is to power the yellow wire up front by ignition then relays click and push button works I bought this for my little girl please help
 

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Master of the Electron
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I have a 2010 raptor 250
So why are you asking in the 660 section? Their elecric systems are completely different... Do you have the proper wiring diagram for the 250? See attached.

The only time I can get push button to work is to power the yellow wire up front by ignition
Based upon the 250 wiring diagram, the yellow/black wire is what you are describing and this points to perhaps the run/stop switch being dirty or corroded.
 

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The reason I posted here is this was the only way I could get any help. But it was a straight yellow wire. And I believe I found the problem there was no power coming from switch so I hooked brown from kill switch to on off switch and bikes seems to power up now.and got it to crank by button. Does this seem ok
 

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Master of the Electron
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Glad you at least got it working.

The yellow wire is related to headlights... the yellow with black STRIPE wire is related to the starter solenoid.

The brown wire is 12V from the battery, switched by the main (key?) switch. What wire did you connect it to in order for the quad to start?
 
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